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Beat Hotel
9 rue Git-le-Cœur, Paris 75006
Métro: St-Michel
Formerly known as the Hôtel Rachou, now known as the Hôtel de Vieux Paris, Beat writers/poets Allen Ginsberg, William S. Burroughs & Gregory Corso stayed here during the 1950s when it was a mere flophouse above a bar. Jack Kerouac, father of the Beats, never stayed here but he did visit; he stayed around the corner at 28, rue St-Andre-des-Arts.
How ironic that the hotel is now, at the very least, a 207€/night room (for a mere deluxe, mind you) with a 13€ breakfast. Oh my!
Here I took photos of the various Beats' pictures hanging on the wall and also of the drawings & photos inside the hotel register; but, alas, there were none of Kerouac. The last known Beat entry was of Corso's in the early '90s shortly before he died. Note the poem in the photo he wrote for the hotel:
Alchemy
a blue bird
alights upon
a yellow chair
-Spring is here!
Madame will be most happy to show you various Beat items.
Photos: April 2003 Leave a Comment
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 Oscar Wilde abode - 19 quai
Voltaire by BeatChick
19 Quai Voltaire
At this address on the quai Voltaire of the Seine, steps from the Musée d'Orsay, is where that Irish wag, playwright & epigrammist, Oscar Wilde (and a bunch of other notables) once lived but not where he died.
It is here that he quipped that he was dying beyond his means so they moved him to a more affordable hotel, the present-day L'Hotel (which is much nicer now than in the days where he had a duel to the death with the ugly wallpaper). He also claimed the proprietor at the Hôtel du Quai Voltaire charged him for the view of Nôtre Dame of which he had no use! You'll find Oscar Wilde's grave at Cimetiere Père-Lachaise.
Charles Baudelaire, French writer, and Richard Wagner, German operatic composer, also stayed here.
For a great review of this hotel, please visit Callavetta's Paris Hotel Page.
Photo: April 2003 Leave a Comment
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 The Sign by Lady_Mystique
Once a publisher of the first English-language newspaper in Paris as well as a book publisher, and a reading room until the end of the 19th century, and still in the hands of the Galignani family.
This bookshop has been at the same address since 1845.
It is now specialized in—and celebrated for—international ART books; you can find all the best books about the arts and fashion, but you may also find artists and fashion designers browsing too.
224, rue de Rivoli, Paris 1st
Phone: 33(0)1 42 60 76 07
Metro: Tuileries
Open 10:00 to 19:00
Closed: Sundays Leave a Comment Website: email: galignani@wanadoo.fr
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Gertrude Stein & Alice B. Toklas' home in Paris
5 rue Christine, Paris 75006
Just down the street from the lovely 4-star Hôtel le Relais Christine, is the site of the Gertrude Stein's & Alice B. Toklas' 2nd home in Paris to which they moved in 1938.
Gertrude had started a huge art collection with her brother, Leo, and it would later become a priceless art collection (filled with Picassos & other post-impressionist works). Hemingway mentioned in A Moveable Feast that going to Miss Stein's apartment was like going to a museum with her wonderful works of art displayed on her walls. He also liked to sample her collection of eaux-de-vie there, too!
When they moved here they brought 130 painting with them. If you're seeking the site of her famous literary salons you'll find it at 27 rue du Fleurus. Leave a Comment
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Samuel Beckett's Quarters
45 rue d'Ulm
École Normale Supérieure
At this site of the École Normale Supérieure is where the famous Irish playwright/author of Waiting for Godot, Samuel Beckett, lived as he served as James Joyce's personal (albeit unpaid) gofer/secretary during the Ulysses years & while he taught at the École.
Tragically, Joyce's cherished daughter, Lucia fell into an unrequited love for Beckett and went mad because of it.
Nearby is the Chapelle Val-du-Grâce and the residences of Man Ray & Thornton Wilder. Leave a Comment
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Thornton Wilder's Abode
269 rue St-Jacques
A Pulitzer-prize-winning novelist, Thornton Wilder moved here in June 1921 after his brief stint at the Hôtel du Maroc. This is where he wrote most of The Bridge at San Luis Rey, published shortly after his return to NYC January 1927.
You can read more about Thornton Wilder in Expatriate Paris: A Cultural & Literary Guide to Paris of the 1920's by Arlen J. Hansen.
This building is just around the corner from Man Ray's studio at 8 rue du Val-de-Grâce.
If you require sustenance you might find Closerie des Lilas at 171 bd Montparnasse to be a pleasant place to sustain yourself. Closerie des Lilas was one of Hemingway's favorite "writing" cafés and also was home to the "Modernism Congress" February 17, 1922, where the dadaist manifesto was proclaimed by folk such as Tristan Tzara, André Breton & Erik Satie. Leave a Comment
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 Natalie Barney's home
famous for literary
salons by BeatChick,
1 more photos
In the garden there is reputed to be a well leading to a tunnel under the Seine to the Louvre but the garden was locked & overgrown; I could see nothing, not even the famed Greek Temple.
Just a few doors down at 10 rue Jacob is American food critic Patricia Wells' apartment in Paris; this is where she holds her cooking classes (reserve WELL in advance). Around the corner on rue Bonaparte is the divine salon de thé, Ladurée, which serves the most wondrous macarons (not those hard coconut-infused macaroons one finds in the US) in a plethora of flavours.
You can read more about Natalie Barney, this story and expatriates in Arlen J. Hansen's inimitable Expatriate Paris: A Cultural & Literary Guide to Paris of the 1920s.
Photo: April 2003 & Feb 2006 Leave a Comment
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Patricia Wells' apartment
10 rue Jacob, Paris 75006
Patricia Wells is the author of the definitive foodie texts Food Lover's Guide to Paris and Food Lover's Guide to France as well as being an internationally-known American critic of French cuisine for the Herald-Tribune. Apparently, she is the only American food critic to whom the French will pay attention. I dub her the hallowed gastronomic grande dame.
For several weeks throughout the year she hosts weeklong cooking classes in this home. As they are every OTHER week somehow I manage to miss it each year. Classes are now being offered for 2006 which must mean that all 2005 classes are filled. :(
During my visit April 2003, Madame next door pushed the door code buttons for me and I was able to see, but not gain entry to, the courtyard but I took a picture of Patricia's mailbox. How creepy, you say!
I had the great pleasure of meeting Mrs. Wells last June when she was promoting her newest foodie tome The Provence Cookbook. I explained to her that I tracked down her Paris abode and took photos of her mailbox. She responded with a "how charming!"
She states that she still refuses to step foot in Bofinger due to their lacksadaisical service and opines that Starbucks burns their beans which produces that bitter taste in their espresso which is unknown in France.
And I'm sure she's changed the door code by now! ;) But you can e-mail me for that anyway!!
Just steps from the site of Natalie Barney's apartment and not too far from the historic H?tel d'Angleterre.
Photos: April 2003 Leave a Comment
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57 rue de Seine
(on the corner of rue Jacob)
At this corner once stood the Hôtel du Maroc, the June 1921 Parisian abode of the famous Pulitzer-Prize-winning playwright who wrote Our Town. But he didn't stay here long because he tired of the bedbugs!
Thankfully, this horror of a hotel is not longer in business. The current business residing here is a travel agency called Urban Safari.
Please note that the rue de Seine is well-known for its art galleries; a wonderful place to shop & browse! Also, for a lovely view thru an archway of the Pont des Arts & the Louvre walk along the street to the river Seine to come upon this surprisingly exquisite sight!
You can read more about Thornton Wilder in Expatriate Paris: A Cultural & Literary Guide to Paris of the 1920's by Arlen J. Hansen.
If you crave a snack, one block west on rue Jacob & rue Bonaparte is the fabulous salon de thé, Ladurée, where they serve the most fabulous macarons. Or go one block south to #73 rue de Seine and try Patricia Wells' favorite lemon tart from Gérard Mulot's boulangerie ~ either way you can't lose!
Photos: Feb 06 Leave a Comment
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Many people think of the Hôtel d'Angleterre as just a nice hotel to stay at on rue Jacob, another nice hotel amongst a slew of nice hotels in this area; few realize its historic political & literary significance.
Formerly the British Embassy, Benjamin Franklin once refused to set foot on "British soil". However, it WAS here that he, John Jay & John Adams worked out details of the treaty with England; just a few steps down the street at #56 (indicated by plaque) these 3 eminent men signed the peace treaty with the British September 3, 1783.
In 1777, Franklin & his 2 grandsons lived at #52. His American compatriot, Thomas Jefferson, was also a guest at the d'Angleterre.
The original name of this hotel was Hôtel Jacob then changed in 1925 to Hôtel Jacob-et-d'Angleterre before settling on its current appellation.
Moving forward we see that this was the first hotel where Hemingway & his bride Hadley (grandmother to Margo & Mariel) stayed (Dec 1921) before taking digs of on rue Cardinal-Lemoine in the Quartier Latin.
Other illustrious writers/artists include Djuna Barnes, Sherwood Anderson (a favorite of Gertrude Stein - over whom she & Hemingway had a falling out), and Man Ray, the famous artist/photographer.
At #20, Natalie Barney held her famous literary salons. Patricia Wells' Paris apartment is located at #10. And on the corner of rue Jacob & rue Bonaparte you'll find the most divine macarons at Ladurée.
Photos: Feb 06 Leave a Comment
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