Café des Deux Moulins
Where the character Amélie worked as a server.
This is a typical café bar where you can get all the refreshments you'll need (coffee, drinks, water, and food) for trudging around Montmartre. And of course they have crème brûlée!
This past trip I also took a photo of the infamous bathroom where Joseph (Dominique Pinon) & Georgette (Isabelle Nanty) do the nasty while Amélie turns up the espresso machine in order to mask Georgette's screams during her throes of passion!
At the corner of rue Lepic and rue Cauchois; not too far east of Cimetière Montmartre and just south of where Vincent Van Gogh lived at 54 rue Lepic with his brother Theo.
Alas, they only accept cash but there is a bank machine just up the street (there's a BNP cash machine at 27 r. Lepic)! My only disappointment with the place was that the glass plate that Amélie writes the menus on was not there. And, alas, it is no longer a tabac. Oh well, not everything can be like the movies!
Photos: April 2003 & November 2007
Got me a movie I want you to know
Slicing up eyeballs I want you to know
Girl, you're so groovy I want you to know
Don't know about you but how you moving
by the Pixies
This is in reference to Luis Buñuel's & Salvador Dalí's great Surrealist flick, Un chien Andalou (The Andalusian Dog) wherein one of the scenes shows Buñuel slicing open a woman's eyeball. Indeed, Luis Buñuel & Salvador Dalí made their first ever showing of their Surrealist film classic L'Âge d'Or (the follow-up to Un chien andalou) here which resulted in riots by right-wing fanatics, religious Catholics & anti-Semites while the movie itself was banned & not shown again until nearly 50 years later in 1979.
Opened in 1928 (hence the name), Studio 28 was the 1st ever experimental art cinéma theatre in the world. Such notable directors as Jean Cocteau (indeed, Cocteau actually decorated the place!), François Truffaut and Orson Welles have launched works from this tiny theatre before unleashing them on the rest of the world.
Studio 28 marks an unobtrusive presence on rue Tholozé. Passing by it, one would never guess it's historic significance, its seminal influence. Sadly, the day I found it one of the windows was broken.
Open Tuesday thru Sunday 3pm - 9pm showing current art & indie films.
Photos: April 2003
Jeanne Hébuterne's familial home
8-bis r. Amyot
This was the familial residence of Jeanne Hébuterne, Modigliani's 9-month's along pregnant lover & elongated-necked oval-faced model, who killed herself by jumping from the top floor of the building shortly after his death.
She had gone to the morgue to identify him. Unfortunately, artist Moïse Kisling's attempt to create a death mask had gone awry and bits of skin were pulled from Amedéo's face along with the removal of the mask. Knowing she was desolate & desperate, her father had placed a suicide watch over her placed in the charge of her brothers. One brother fell asleep during his sentry and she took this opportunity to kill herself. It was said that she fell backward in order not to see the ground as she fell but I believe she did it in an effort not to fall on the baby.
This morbid chick actually looked at the sidewalk to see if a crack from mademoiselle Hebuterne's fall could be ascertained. Alas, no, not at this late date.
They are together at last in Père Lachaise.
Read about Modigliani's studio in Montmartre.
A biopic of Modigliani has just been made starring Andy Garcia (who says it's his favorite character thus far). It was due to be released in the U.S. December 15th, 2004 but as of this date it has not. The DVD is due to be released September 27th, 2005.
Photo: September 2005
Place du Marche St-Catherine is a beautiful little square in the Marais with restaurants lining it and tons of people hanging out - prime location for local people watching. It's very much off-the-beaten-path so not overrun by tourists.
This charming square takes its name from the convent of Sainte-Catherine-du-Val-des-Ecoliers that once inhabited this spot.
This square was one of the locations used for the film The Bourne Identity. It flashes very briefly on the screen but I recognized it. The safehouse for Treadstone is above one of the restaurants (Au Bistrot de la Place, I think) on the east side of the square. Also, if you'll take a gander at rue d'Ormesson, you'll recognize it as the place where Conklin bit the dust in the same movie.
Restaurants on the Place:
Au Bistrot de La Place #2
Le Marche #2
Arirang (Korean) #6
La Belle Histoire #6
Pitchi Poi #9
Beautiful wedding dresses are sold at Suzanne Ermann at #7 on the square.
Off of rue Saint-Antoine through rue Caron. 5 minutes from the Place des Vosges and around the corner from my favorite little hotel in the Marais, Grand Hotel Jeanne d'Arc.
Photos: Feb 2006
7, place Jean-Baptiste-Clément
Amedeo Modigliani was an Italian artist noted for the oval faces & elongated necks of his models done in the Expressionist style, influenced by Toulouse-Lautrec.
He lived at this address in 1907 after his temporary tenure at Le Bateau-Lavoir. It is here that he met fellow Montmartois artist, Maurice Utrillo along with his soon-to-be patron, Dr. Paul Alexandre. It is while he is living here that he discovered Cézanne at the Salon d'Automne. Between these two artists there developed mutual respect & admiration.
Upon leaving the site of Modigliani's Montmartre studio I met a nice German couple & showed them where Modigliani had painted – funny how people from different countries pronounce his name (Mo-dill-iyani, Mo-dig-liani, MO-dil-yani).
A biopic of Modigliani has just been made starring Andy Garcia (who says it's his favorite character thus far). It was due to be released in the U.S. December 15th, 2004 but has not yet. DVD release date is September 27th, 2004
Photos: Sept 2005 & November 2007
17, rue Malebranche
Audrey Hepburn's & Maurice Chevalier's apartment in the movie Love in the Afternoon.
Look closely. In one scene of the movie you see Maurice Chevalier pull out a card that lists 17, rue Mallebranche as his address. I checked it out on PagesJaunes and sure enough it was the same apartment; a slightly different spelling but the same apartment. I walked here my last trip and it was so cool to see the doorway just as it's seen in the movie! Here is where Gary Cooper reels down the street and parks, jumps out to talk to the detective, Maurice Chevalier, in order to find his lady love.
This is super close to the Panthéon. Go west on rue Soufflot from the Panthéon, right on rue Saint Jacques, left on rue Malebranche.
Or from RER Luxembourg, go east on rue Soufflot, right on rue Le Goff, left on rue Malebranche.
Photos: Nov 2007 & Feb 2006
Au Marché de la Butte
This is the unglamourized version of Collignon's market from the movie Amélie, where Amélie shopped for walnuts & figs/ran her hand through the lentils and where Lucien worked/lovingly tended the endive – around the corner on the left-hand side is a door where in the movie Amélie resides.
Click here to see my photo of Amélie's café, Café des Deux Moulins.
56, rue des Trois Frères & rue Androuet
From Métro Abbesses, walk west until you see an opening in the buildings that looks like it goes to a courtyard. This is actually the Passage des Abbesses and will lead you straight up to this market.
Click here to see MORE MONTMARTRE PHOTOS (where you may view a photo of the entrance to the Passage des Abbesses) or go to my home page (click "Beatchick"), scroll to the bottom & view my Moonstruck in Montmartre album.
Photos: November 2007
Jim Morrison's Apartment
17 rue Beautreillis
Behind the massive green double doors of this is the building, Jim Morrison (lead singer of the '60s & '70s seminal band, The Doors) lived his last days in the early '70s here in Paris and died of a heart attack, perhaps due to a heroin overdose (we'll never know). He was found dead in the bathtub in the wee hours by his common-law wife, Pamela Courson Morrison (who herself died just 2 3/4 years later). If you've seen The Doors movie then you know what I mean.
Across the street at #18 is a restaurant where Pam & Jim used to dine and where he had one of his last meals.
Just down the street, rue Beautreillis, I discovered a lovely, crumbling ancient relic, the Hotel Jean Louis Raoul facade. I like to think that Jim passed by here many a time during his rambles in the Marais; I hope he enjoyed it as much as I did.
Located in an area of the Marais that few tourists will venture into, it is located just a street or two east from the Village St-Paul area nestled between the rue St-Antoine and the Seine.
Jim now rests in Cimetiere Pere Lachaise while sadly Pamela rests in Fairhaven Memorial Park in Santa Ana, CA (apparently, her father listed Père Lachaise as her final resting place).
Photos: February 2006
18 rue Beautreillis, Marais, 4th arrondissement
If you're a huge Doors fan like I am then you'll be interested in this tidbit about the Lizard King. This restaurant was once called Restaurant Le Beautreillis and was one of the last places Jim ate before he died. He and Pamela dined here the night of July 1st, 1971; as was usual, they got into an argument, Pam threw some money at him and stormed off. It's now called Le Dindon en Laisse (The Turkey Leaves Some).
Across the street at #17 was the apartment where Jim passed on "through to the other side".
Photo: February 2006
Bordering the square, Place du Marche Ste-Catherine, is the rue d'Ormesson. Both the square and this street served as locations for the the film The Bourne Identity.
The first scene for this area is a brief flash across the screen indicating this is the safehouse for Treadstone, located above one of the restaurants (Au Bistrot de la Place, I think) on the east side of the square.
The scene for this street is where Conklin bit the dust.
Off of rue Saint-Antoine through rue Caron, take a left onto rue d'Ormesson. 5 minutes from the Place des Vosges and around the corner from my favorite little hotel in the Marais, Hotel Jeanne d'Arc.
Photo: Feb 2006
Rues des Rosiers & des Hospitalieres St-Gervais
In this scene, Luc (Kevin Kline) has just stolen a motorcyle & rounded the corner from rue des Hospitalieres St-Gervais onto rue des Rosiers in his search for Kate (Meg Ryan). It took me forever to find this location, but in this scene you'll see the familiar blue double doors at the end of the rue des Rosiers which is the entrance to the Passage des Singes. This small passage connects the rue des Rosiers with rue des Guillemites. On this last trip in February, I tried the double doors but they were locked; apparently, it's a private passage.
In the movie, you can also see the signature yellow facade of famed Jewish boulangerie, Sacha Finkelsztajn.
In the photo you can see the rue des Hospitalieres St-Gervais to the right, the blue double doors of the Passage des Singes is barely discernable at the end of the street with its archway above it, to the left is Sacha Finkelsztajn one door down.
Click HERE to see where he goes to next.
Click HERE to see the location in Montmartre where Kate & Luc argue over money.
Photo: February 2006
Rue des Rosiers & rue des Ecoffes
In his efforts continued pursuit of Kate (Meg Ryan), Luc (Kevin Kline) rounds the corner of rue des Rosiers & rue des Ecoffes. In the scene you see him round the corner from rue des Hospitalieres St-Gervais onto rue des Rosiers, ride his stolen motorcycle a bit down the rue des Rosiers and then around this corner.
Click HERE to see the corner of rue des Hospitalieres St-Gervais & rue des Rosiers.
Click HERE to see the location in Montmartre where Kate & Luc argue over money.
Photo: February 2006
In Montmartre on the east side of Sacré-Coeur at the bottom of the steps of rue Maurice Utrillo sits the café Au Soleil de la Butte. You'll find the spot where it meets rue Paul Albert, rue Muller, and rue Charles Nodier. This café is shown in the 1995 film version of Sabrina. This is where Sabrina (Julia Ormond) quotes Gertrude Stein in a letter to her father shortly before she triumphantly returns home. The camera shows her sitting serenely on the terrace, then pans back to show it beautifully from the vantage point of rue Maurice Utrillo (the steps).
We also see it in L’Auberge Espagnole (The Spanish Apartment) when Xavier (Romain Duris) returns to Paris from his year of studies in Barcelona and happens upon his ex-girlfriend Martine played by Audrey Tatou.
It’s also glimpsed briefly in a background shot in The Razor's Edge when Isabel (played to evil perfection by the normally pristine Catherine Hicks) and Gray (James Keach) drop off Larry (Bill Murray) and Sophie (Theresa Russell) from their taxi.
Just to the left is the spot where Meg Ryan & Kevin Kline argue over money in French Kiss.
Photos: February 2006 & November 2007
Place de Montebello in the Latin Quarter is another one of my favorite squares in Paris. Film makers must agree because it's also shown in at least 2 movies:
An American in Paris - A classic Paris film starring Gene Kelly & a young Leslie Caron in her first movie. The scene is at Café Bel Ami, the cafe where Lise & Jerry regularly met (by the Pont de l'Archevêche) (MGM Studio rendering)
The Fatal Image - starring Justine Bateman & Michelle Lee, they're shown at Le Montebello, the cafe they sit at in the beginning of the movie.
You'll find this charming square located right at the Pont de l'Archeveche.
Photos: March 2001, Feb 2006 & Nov 2007
Le Consulat, located at 18 rue Norvins & rue des Saules, is a restaurant where the Impressionists used to meet. In doing research for a book I'm writing, I also discovered Le Consulat is featured in Woody Allen's great Paris flick Everyone Says I Love You, starring (of course) Woody Allen, Julia Roberts, Goldie Hawn, Alan Alda, Drew Barrymore, Natalie Portman, Edward Norton, famed voilinist Itzhak Perlman, and Tim Roth. The genius of this film was the number of actors singing, most of whom don't normally sing!
A sign on the side of the building says:
One of the oldest houses of the butte, located at the angle of rue Saint-Rustique, 9 centuries old, with its paving stones and its central pathway.
Les Consulat was the rendezvous of the great painters Picasso, Sisley, Diaz, Van Gogh, Toulouse Lautrec and Monet.
In the Georges Pompidou museum, one can admire Utrillo's painting Le Consulat.
Today, this restaurant, an historical place, accomodates the travellers of the whole world, without forgetting the films of Claude Brasseur, Annie Girardeau, Julia Roberts, Drew Barrymore, Woody Allen one of whose latest films was Everyone Says I Love You.
It's also featured in a beautiful Paris screensaver I have from art by Liudmila Kondakova. One of my favorite memories is walking to the confluence of rue Norvins & rue des Saules to find the site of one of the scenes on my beautiful Paris screensaver! I felt like I was coming home.
Another film featuring this building was Forget Paris starring Billy Crystal & Debra Winger (as Ellen). In the film, we see Ellen sitting at a table of this restaurant, then she gets up to walk home via the picturesque rue St-Rustique with Sacré-Coeur beaming in the background. See photos for perspectives of the restaurant and the street!
Photos: November 2007