Saint Eustache & Les Halles, Paris

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Built between the 16th and the 17th century, Saint Eustache is one of the largest churches in Paris (the plan and the the dimensions are those of a cathedral).
It used to be the 'gardener's church' but has lost its vocation when the Halles (the whole food market) moved to Rungis.

It's now mostly know for its famous organ concerts.

The inside is presently undergoing serious renovations.

Open monday-friday : 9h30-19h, saturday : 10h-19h, sunday : 9h-19h15
Organ concerts: every sunday at 17h30

2 Impasse Saint Eustache - (1st)
Metro/RER : Chatelet-Les Halles

the area of les halles in the 1er arrondissement is definitely worth seeing. the forum les halles is a gorgeous building situated in the heart of paris. this area is much less touristy and there are some wonderful cafes and brasseries - i got a 3 course meal for 13 euros!!!

the church st eustache is lovely inside and worth seeing. the garden outside is lovely to sit down and rest your feet. lovely atmosphere and definitely worth a visit.

also shops in this area are rather inexpensive if you're fond of your shopping!

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Right next to the modern shopping centre of Les Halles, you will find the second largest church in Paris: the Saint-Eustache. It is a Gotic building, based on the older Notre Dame. Constuction was started in the year 1532 and took more then 100 years. The current building is 105 meters long and 43 meters wide: an enormous structure.

What else? "Sunking" Louis XIV got his First Holy Communion here in this church, poet Moliere is buried here and very extraordinairy: on of the two towertops of the front facade is missing. I tried to find out why, but I still don't know...

Between the church and the Forum Les Halles you can find a remarkable statue made by Henri de Millers, called l'Écoute. L'Écoute means "the hearing", and that is what the hand and the big head show you.

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This gorgeous fountain (the only remaining Renaissance-era fountain in Paris) stands on the Square des Innocents near the massive flamboyant-gothic church of St-Eustache in Les Halles, which is in the very center of Paris, the 1st arrondissement.

Originally, this area encompassed the Cimetière des Innocents (yes, you read about it in Anne Rice's Vampire Chronicles - where the vampire Armand's coven resided). A very wicked area at one point, prostitutes used to bring their customers here to do their deed amongst the reeking decomposing bodies. According to Thirza Vallois' Around & About Paris the constitution of the soil was perfectly suited to quickly decompose bodies - supposedly all but the skeletons was completely obliterated within 3 weeks! However, the stench of the bodies grew so bad they decided to move the remains to a new area. Hence, the birth of the Catacombs.

But now this is where you will find Parisian skater dudes performing their stunts & tricks.

This area is very popular with teens. Nearby is the underground Forum Les Halles shopping complex.
Mom's with teens in tow to Paris take note:
There is a McDonald's close by on rue Berger!

Photo: April 2003

One thing to remember as a tourist anywhere, but especially in Paris, is that most of the churches you visit as a "sight" are working parishes. St-Eustache is no exception. For example on the parish page listed below there is a link you can follow if you are interested in a wedding or baptism there!

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This sculpture of a VERY large head lies in a plaza between St. Eustache and one of the entrances to Les Halles shopping mall. IIt seems to serve many purposes in better weather -- children love to climb on it -- and grafitti "taggers" like to leave their mark also! It is titled l?Ecoute (?The Listener?) and is by the artist Henri de Miller
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I've added a few more photos from my October 2005 trip. This time the sun was out.
I found the Etienne-Marcel metro stop to be the easiest way to access the St. Eustache/Les Halles area.

The picture shows new and old form of light -- a projected cross below a window and the traditional votive candles lit both in memory and for specific prayers.
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The music in St Eustache is reported to be excellent -- the organ itself is of note -- built between 1986-88 by the Dutch firm Van Den Huevel. Attending a concert or mass there is high on my list! See the website below for all the organ information that you would want ;)

For those who like to visit old religious relics but don't want to mess with the busy touristy ones...go to the church that is located a little
behind Centre Pompidou. The metro station Les Halles is nearby. The street name is Rue
Rambuteau.