La Tour d'Argent, Paris

Her Michelin stars come & go,
but a La Tour d' Argent event is
not necessarily all about food -
it is about the whole experience.

Even though Claude Terrail is no longer with us,

and lately it has become pseudo-fashionable
to "pan" this place -

(especially by snarky "experts" who, when you corner them, usually end up having to confess they've never even eaten here) -

Tour d' Argent will still always be one of my fave splurges in Paris.

The view of Notre Dame from Pont Tournelle across the Seine is unforgettable, the presentation of the duck dishes unlike anywhere else in the world,
and the history & tradition as heavy, close and palpable as a damp Paris late-night stroll along the Seine.Years ago, I was most impressed with the gracious host of Tour d'Argent: Claude Terrail (Repose en paix) - a warm and convivial gentleman who had more class in his toes than I will ever hope to have in my whole body.

Mr. Terrail, who for decades has hosted Europe's most wealthy and famous, went out of his way to come to my "unfamous / nobody" table, greet me and personally see to my satisfaction & comfort. Merci beaucoup, Monsieur. We will miss you.Tour d'Argent (referred to by some critics as "the most fascinating table in the world") is unique:

it is not Taillevent; Le Grand Vefour; a Robuchon-type like Jamin; or Guy Savoy: and rightfully so with all respect to them:

With the killer view across the Seine of Ille de la Cite and the venerable traditional 'belle epoque' Canard a L'Orange-heavy menu, it is unique in experience.

Dinner is very expensive (dejeuner is more affordable).My recommendation & summary:

I treat places like Tour d'Argent with a reverent finality:
...Chances are this may be the only time I ever have the pleasure (or the Euros) to eat here.

You only go around once in life: I can honestly recommend at least one trip in your Paris lifetime to Tour d'Argent. You can most certainly do worse in Paris with a splurge dinner.

Bon APPETIT !

NOTE: Closed all day Monday and Tuesday for lunch (see website)

Caneton Roti a L'Orange, Croquettes Au Pain D'Epices (roast duckling with orange sauce & gingerbread croquettes).
Appertif kir royale, foie gras, a demi of '95 Chateauneuf du Pape, fromage plate.
...and the chocolates selection made special for Tour d'Argent served with cafe are untouchable, world class, and to die for.

The "signature dish" of Tour d'Argent has always been Canard au sang, or "bloodied duck," a numbered, pressed duck served in its blood.
Here is how they make it: Click below for a step-by-step recipe with instructions:Tour d'Argent le canard à la presseDress is "business-formal." Put on your best togs for this place.
Unless you are independently wealthy,
bring a credit card and your sense of humor.

I can not imagine two people escaping with a bill under E400 euros - ( ~ $550 USD) if you treat yourself in the style to which you would like to become accustomed, and even at that price you're "skimping" on the wine list ... I have faith that if you go you will still find the experience worth it.

For evening dinner, reserve at least a month in advance.
It is often easier to reserve for dejeuner or early (~ 17:30) dinner.

Note: The wine cellars - the vintages are some of the best in Europe: some of the prices are for oil sheiks.

Mr. Terrail was kind enough to give me a parchement copy of my menu from the summer '03 menu as a keepsake, so I scanned & posted it for grins.

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La Tour d'Argent, Paris

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