| Musée du Moyen Age (Middle Ages) - Musée de Cluny tips and photos posted by real travelers and Paris locals.
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This museum is an absolute must for all tapestry lovers.
There is not only the amazing ensemble of the "Dame à la Licorne" but there are many other remarkable art works nearly all of Flanders (part of the Duchy of Burgundy in that time) at the end of the 15th begin 16th c.
Among the best known are "Les Vendanges - The Grape Harvest" (Flanders around 1500).
It is typical of the noble daily life theme found in the tapestries of the 15th c.
The Lord and Lady are shown overseeing the grape harvest and the pressing of the grapes. Everyone, including the servants, wears the finest clothing and jewellery!
This scene represents the two techniques of pressing known in the Middle Ages: pressing with the foot, where the peasant tramples the grain to crush it (a technique used for the not very important vines), and the press with screw which the peasants turn with a stick to crush the bunches and to extract the juice from them. The liquid is then collected in wooden barrels to be preserved.
The tapestry is set against a "mille fleur" (thousand flower) background, a popular design feature in many tapestries of the middle ages.
Replicas of this tapestry are still produced and proposed for sale. Directions: Where Boulevard Saint-Michel meets Boulevard Saint-Germain... couldn't be easier. Metro Cluny-Sorbonne.
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One could say that medieval art was very often synonym of religious art.
This museum shows a large number of religious art works of the highest quality.
I insist on the high quality for what is on display in the Musée de Cluny because what I saw over the years in churches, monasteries and museums made me conclude that religious art, like secular art, has a fair number of highlights but much more minor works.
In my review here on the wooden sculptures I showed already some good works to which I would like to add this "Virgin of Sorrows" in front of a town landscape (oak, France 1520 photo n°2).
There is a category of religious art works i.e. wooden altarpieces also well represented in this museum (room 14). They are important features of the medieval arts culture. Many of them were carved in the towns of Antwerp, Brussels and Mechelen in present-day Belgium (ref. my review on Brussels, Cinquantenaire museums).
There is a beautiful altarpiece "La Rencontre d'Abraham et de Melchisedech, la Messe de Saint Grégoire" carved in polychrome wood by Jan de Molder, Antwerp 1514, of which my photo represents a part "la Cène - Last Supper" (photo n°1). Another remarkable one is the "Childhood and Passion of Christ" in polychrome wood (3 x 3 m) also made in Antwerp begin 16th c. (photo n°3).
There exist also small altarpieces for use in the private chapels of the noble. A fine example is the "Deploration du Christ" by Arnt of Kalkar (Germany in 1483) with dimensions of 1 m x 0,5 m. Directions: Metro Cluny-Sorbonne (closer)
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The National Museum of the Middle Ages is reputed for its magnificent collection of tapestries.
The so called "Mille fleurs" thousand flowers tapestries are typical of the 15th c. and owe their name to the multitude of flowers and blooming branches spread over them. This is a background on which persons and animals are represented. The most sumptuous examples of these "mille fleurs" tapestries are the six "Lady with the Unicorn - Dame à la licorne " tapestries in this museum of the former Cluny Abbey hotel.
The name Cluny comes from the famous Abbey de Cluny in Burgundy to which belonged this Parisian abbey residence.
"La Dame à la Licorne" is the title of a series of six Flemish (Brussels?) tapestries from around 1490, made of wool and silk, often considered as one of the greatest works of art of the Middle Ages. The cartons were made in Paris. The harmony of the range of colours is exceptional as well as their iconography and the fact that they always remained together.
These 6 tapestries of about 3 x 4 m are on display in a special very dark circular room of the museum
Five of these tapestries illustrate each of the five senses : taste, hearing, sight, smell and touch. In each there is the Lady with the unicorn, a lion, other animals, a maidservant.
The sixth tapestry, wider than the others, shows the lady standing in front of a tent which reads "A Mon Seul Désir - To My Only Desire".
There are various interpretations, the meaning of this sixth piece remains mysterious.
These six tapestries were discovered in 1841 by the French author Prosper Mérimée in the castle of Boussac. They were probably manufactured for Jean Le Viste, a personage close to King Charles VII.
As there is some mystery about this "Dame à la Licorne", books were written about these allegoric tapestries, recently by Tracy Chevalier author of the book "Girl with the pearl earring".
There are other beautiful tapestries such as the "Seigniorial Life", the "Grape Harvest", "The Liberal Arts" etc all of Flanders begin 16th c. Directions: Where Boulevard Saint-Michel meets Boulevard Saint-Germain... couldn't be easier. Metro Cluny-Sorbonne (closer) or Saint-Michel (not far at all).Website: www.musee-moyenage.fr
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The National Museum of the Middle Ages is rich in sculptures and architectural decorations from a large number of Parisian monuments, among which Notre Dame, and possesses beautiful collections of medieval enamelling and goldsmithing.
What I liked very much were the medieval wooden sculptures. These, often religious, sculptures are very different from the classical style inspired by the Greco-Roman sculptures.
The expression of the faces, the physiognomy of these statues often stretched in height deviate from the classical aesthetic rules. These medieval sculptures show a mystic personality.
Very impressive are a "St John" from Tuscany around 1220 (photo 2), a Christ from Auvergne 12th c. (photo 3), a "Marie Madeleine" from Brussels around 1500 (photo 4) and the strange statue of "St Florian", an officer of the Roman army, patron saint of Austria (15th c.) and also patron of the firefighters (photo 1). The cross of St. Florian is widely used by fire services to form their emblem, also in the USA. Directions: Where Boulevard Saint-Michel meets Boulevard Saint-Germain... couldn't be easier. Metro Cluny-Sorbonne (closer) or Saint-Michel (not far at all).
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If you have the time and you enjoy seeing works of art and learning more about the history of the Middle Ages, the Musée de Cluny is the place for you! I really loved this museum as it isn't too big and gives a wonderful overview over the Middle Ages in France. Unfortunately I ran out of time for the day during my visit and had to haste my way through the museum, but it has left me with a wonderful impression. The name of the museum is a bit confusing as it is sometimes referred to as the Musée de Cluny and sometimes as the Musée National du Moyen Âge (Museum of the Middle Ages).
The museum houses a variety of important artifacts dating to the Middle Ages. It is in particular known for its wonderful tapestry collection. The most famous of them all is the "La Dame à la Licorne" (The Lady and the Unicorn) dating back to the 15th century. To my surprise there is not just one "Lady and the Unicorn", but it is a serie of in total 6 wall covering tapestries. In photos 3 and 5, you can see two of these, called "Sight" and "To My Only Desire"
. It's quite amazing to stand in this room and be surrounded by the bright red colours of these 6 tapestries.
Photography is allowed inside the museum, but only without flash. The rooms are rather dark, so you do need a steady hand to be able to take some photos.
Opening hours:
Daily (except Tuesday), from 9:15 to 5:45, Desk closes at 5:15
Closed 1 January, 1 May and 25 December.
Admission Fee: 6,5 € Leave a Comment Phone: 33 (0)1 53 73 78 00Directions: In the 5th arrondissement Quarter Latin Where Boulevard Saint-Michel meets Boulevard Saint-Germain. Métro-stop: Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel or OdéonWebsite: http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/index.html
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Paris is a treasure house of museums and art galleries. Try to see them all and you will rapidly find your mind a blur of magnificent works of art and architecture. You really do have to be a bit selective. One not to miss though is the Museum of the Middle Ages. Housed in two historic buildings - the Roman baths and the mediaeval Hotel de Cluny, once the Paris home of the Benedictine Order, the buildings themselves are fascinating and they are now filled with works of rare beauty - delicate ivories, serene carvings in stone and wood, stunning mediaeval glass, fabulous pieces in gold and precious stones, gorgeous textiles and more. The collection includes works dating from Franco-Romano times right through to the late middle ages, both secular and ecclesiastical. Only a fraction of it can be on display at any one time.
Most precious of all and the biggest drawcard of the museum - the exquisite and enigmatic set of tapestries known as The Lady and the Unicorn - is to be found in a room of its own where nothing else can detract from their beauty.
Do allow yourself plenty of time here, this is a collection to be viewed in quiet contemplation.
As you leave, pay a visit to the mediaeval garden, a new feature of the museum. A little time spent here allows for a gentle easing back into the modern world of rush and noise to reflect on the splendours of another age you have just left behind you.
leyle Leave a Comment Directions: Where Boulevard Saint-Michel meets Boulevard Saint-Germain Metro Cluny-Sorbonne (closer) or Saint-Michel (not far at all). Open: 9:15 to 5:45. Last admission 5.15. Closed Tuesdays Closed 1 January, 1 May and 25 December.Website: http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ang/homes/home_id20754_u1l2.htm
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From previous visits I remember this as being a very attractive museum, but this last time I was not in my museum mode since it was such good cycling weather.
The one thing I wanted to attend here this time was a concert of medieval music, but when I arrived it turned out that one of the musicians was sick and the concert had been cancelled. Oh well, maybe next time. (If you go to one of these concerts, please let me know how it was.)
Second photo: Entrance to the museum Leave a Comment Directions: Métro Cluny-Sorbonne or Saint-Michel.
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Once I'm inside the Musée du Moyen Age I'm unable to leave. This time I got stuck at tapestries called "Vie Seigneuriale - Manorial Life" (Flanders 16th c.)
They are an illustration of the "Amour Courtois" chivalrous love, reading, poetry, singing and music. "La Dame au Bain" is the best known part.
Other activities are represented in the Liberal Arts tapestry having for subject Arithmetic's (Flanders, probably Tournai, begin 16th c.).
Religion is another major theme of medieval tapestries. The museum displays a most remarkable series of choir hangings the "Legend of St Etienne" made in Brussels around 1500.
Now if that is not sufficient, amateurs can go to the Louvre to see the famous 12 tapestries called "The Hunts of Maximilian" (see my tip) in wing Richelieu.
The "lissiers" tapestry weavers used two type of weaving loom: the horizontal loom called "basse lisse" and the vertical one "haute lisse". In both case the weavers worked on the back side. It has been calculated that one "lissier" would weave about 1 square meter in one month! Directions: Where Boulevard Saint-Michel meets Boulevard Saint-Germain... couldn't be easier. Metro Cluny-Sorbonne.
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Surprising was that statue called "Christ des Rameaux - Christ of Palm Sunday".
In South Germany, from 12th to 16th c., animated sculptures were used in order to put in scene some parts of the sacred history around Easter.
Here we have a sculpture representing Jesus Christ on a little donkey. This statue (end 15th c.) made of 17 parts of wood and posed on a platform with wheels was used on Palm Sunday and towed from one church considered as the Mount of Olives, to another, considered as the Holy Sepulchre.
This tradition of medieval piety ended with the Reform or Counter-Reform.
In a totally other area, that of daily life, I found a little statue in polychrome wood from 1500 (photo n°2) "Buste Porte Serviette" used as towel rail! Directions: Where Boulevard Saint-Michel meets Boulevard Saint-Germain... couldn't be easier. Metro Cluny-Sorbonne.
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This place is truly cool!! There is just no real opportunity to see Middle Ages artifacts here in the U.S. and the Lady & the Unicorn tapestries are just très belle. However, the thing I liked the best was the Sundial clock on the outside of the building opposite of the well in the courtyard.
Here also are the heads of the Kings of Judah that once graced the portals of Notre Dame. During the Revolution the rabble-rousers thought they were the statues of the Kings of France (well, naturally they should be destroyed). Some forward-thinking person found them and preserved them in salt until they were unearthed in 1977 from the basement of a bank near the Opéra Garnier.
Another room houses ancient stained glass panels, some of them from the Cathedral of Light, Ste-Chapelle.
E-mail: lettreinfo.musee-moyenage@culture.gouv.fr
Hours of operation: Every day except Tuesday, 9:15am-5:45pm ~ Closed Jan 1, May 1 & XMAS
Admission:
Regular admission: 5.50€ & 6.70€ museum & exhibit
Discount:
under 25 years & on Sunday: 4€ & 5.20€
Free:under 18, unemployed, teachers on duty, students, disabled, & 1st Sunday of the month
Bookstore/Giftshop
9:15am-6pm except Tuesdays
PH#: 01 53 73 78 22
FX#: 01 40 46 03 39
Carte Musées et Monuments accepted here.
Photos: Feb 2006 Leave a Comment Phone: 01 53 73 78 00Directions: Métro Cluny-La Sorbonne, south on bd. St-Michel, left r. du Sommerard Bus: 21, 27, 38, 63, 85, 86, 87 RER: lineC St-Michel/lineB Cluny-La Sorbonne Parking: R. de l'Ecole de Médecine, r. Soufflot & Parc St-Michel (via pl Saint-André-des-Arts)Website: http://www.musee-moyenage.fr/ Other Contact: 01 43 25 85 27 fx#
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