Musée du Moyen Age (Middle Ages) - Musée de Cluny, Paris

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In the "Rive Gauche", near Sorbonne, the national museum of the Middle Ages is installed in a complex composed by two Parisian monuments: Gallo-Roman thermal baths (1st-3rd centuries) and the hotel of the abbots of Cluny (15th century). The museum was founded in 1843, thanks to the collections of Alexandre de Sommerard who lived in the hotel of Cluny. Enriched during the years, the large collections covers all the art from Gaulle Roman times to the 16th century.

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Officially called "Musée National du Moyen Âge - Thermes et Hôtel de Cluny," this museum contains an amazing collection of mediaeval art from Paris. It is housed in two adjacent structures, both considered rare examples of architecture in the city: les Thermes de Cluny, the 3rd century AD Roman Baths, and l'hôtel de Cluny, the 15th/16th century residence of the abbot of Cluny. The Baths of Cluny were among several that served the inhabitants of Lutetia, i.e. Roman Paris, and stand nowadays in partial ruins. The frigidarium (cold room) of the baths is better preserved and is used as a hall within the museum, whereas the caldarium (hot room) has lost its roof and can only be seen from the outside of the museum in its garden. L'Hôtel de Cluny itself dates back to the 13th century and served as the residence of the abbot of cluny. It was almost entirely rebuilt around 1500 by abbot Jacques d'Amboise in a design mixing Gothic and Renaissance styles, but its most striking feature is the chapel with a splendid and unique Gothic ceiling (see attached photos). The mansion was abandoned after the Suppression, but it was purchased along with the ruined baths in the early 19th century by the lover of art, Alexandre du Sommerard. Upon his death in 1842, he donated the palace, the adjacent baths and his mediaeval art collection to the state to be collectively turned into a museum.

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The displays in this museum cover art ( a Lot of it religious) from the 1st to the the 5th Centuries and then from the 11th to the 15th centuries. Part of it sits in the ruins of a Frigidarium of a Roman Bath. Two of the outstanding things to see are:
1. Most of the sculpted heads of the 28 Kings of Judah and Israel meant for Norte Dame's West Facade but buried during the French Revolution. They were lost for almost 200 years but in 1977 found by pure chance when digging near the Opera.

2. The Lady and The Unicorn series of tapestries from about 1500. Similar ones hang in the Cloisters Museum in New York City.
But there are many other gems to see as well.

this museum is covered by the Paris Museum Pass.

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This is one of our favorite museums. It's small but packed with interest. There are Roman baths and artifacts but the main focus is medieval history. The most famous part of the collection is the series of Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries so be sure to see them. They are upstairs in a room by themselves and come with an explanation. Photos are allowed but no flash so it's difficult to get a good picture.

The stained glass is amazing because it is mounted on a light wall and you can get right up to it and see the details. Much more fun than using binoculars to view windows twenty feet over your head.

Finally, don't miss the gardens. There is a medieval garden with very modern fountains and sculpture. There is ample seating for family picnics on wooden benches and a marvelous children's playground if you have your kids with you.

Oh yes, this is a great place to buy the Paris Museum Pass because there is almost never a line at the Cluny Museum.

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I like a lot the Grape Harvest tapestry, a Flemish work from beginning 16th century (is it still Middle Age?), among the many tapestries you can admire in the museum. Items of every day’s life of that time are also here, like this tap (picture 2) which, with time and wearing became really “modern” to me! But it is religious art which makes the special character of the museum and best represents the inspiration of the Middle age artists. The Madonna on picture 3 can get tears from your eyes, and this Italian Cross Descent (picture 4) is really moving, more than religious painting!
Visiting this museum takes at least 3 hours but you can get lost in there for the whole day and the employees may politely ask you to leave at 5:45 pm. . . . You forget eating, drinking. . . you are immersed. . .
And a to finish, an “annunciation” on stained glass (picture 5), where the Holy Spirit represented as a dove bearing a halo is telling about good news. . . . Leave the Museum in peace.

There is a bookstore and shop (it closed at 6:pm) in the lower level next to the entrance; you can have a look at a big selection of books about Middle Age (some in English), or DVDs, and a lot of art reproduction you can purchase for souvenir or gifts (mainly mouldings, scarves, tapestry reproductions. . . . puzzles, calendars, postcards. . . . ); not cheap!

Days and hours of operation
Every day except Tuesday, from 9:15 to 5:45
Desk closes at 5:15
Closed 1 January, 1 May and 25 December.
-Plein tarif : 7.5 €
-Tarif réduit : 5.5 €

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Visible in the garden of the Hotel de Cluny are the walls of the third century Roman thermal baths - which were destroyed during barbarian invasions. There is a modern building built around part of the old baths; Room XII in the Museum contains the massive vaulting preserved intact. The best preserved part of the baths is the frigidarium (cold room), which shelters two beautifully carved first- and second-century capitals, the so-called Seine Boatmen's Pillar and the Pillar of St-Landry, which has animated-looking gods and musicians adorning three of its faces.

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The museum of the Middle-Ages-Thermal baths of Cluny are comprised in 2 buildings, the thermal baths dationg from the 1st-III centuries and the "Hotel of the Bishops of Cluny" from the 15th century. The museum was founded in 1843 by Antoine de Sommerard, who was living here at the time and was a lover of all things "middle-ages". There is also a medieval styled garden behind.

Not having visited the inside of the museum I give here the website address and 'phone number for those that want more information and details. The website is very detailed and is in French, English or Spanish.

Cluny-Sorbonne is the closest metro.

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Once I'm inside the Musée du Moyen Age I'm unable to leave. This time I got stuck at tapestries called "Vie Seigneuriale - Manorial Life" (Flanders 16th c.)
They are an illustration of the "Amour Courtois" chivalrous love, reading, poetry, singing and music. "La Dame au Bain" is the best known part.

Other activities are represented in the Liberal Arts tapestry having for subject Arithmetic's (Flanders, probably Tournai, begin 16th c.).

Religion is another major theme of medieval tapestries. The museum displays a most remarkable series of choir hangings the "Legend of St Etienne" made in Brussels around 1500.

Now if that is not sufficient, amateurs can go to the Louvre to see the famous 12 tapestries called "The Hunts of Maximilian" (see my tip) in wing Richelieu.

The "lissiers" tapestry weavers used two type of weaving loom: the horizontal loom called "basse lisse" and the vertical one "haute lisse". In both case the weavers worked on the back side. It has been calculated that one "lissier" would weave about 1 square meter in one month!