Saint Eustache, Paris

Église Saint-Eustache has been on my 'Must See' Paris list for ages, so I was delighted to have the opportunity to address this oversight on my most recent visit.

My love of Gothic architecture is no secret, so the fact that it would appeal to me was beyound question. However, I was quite surprised as how different it was to many of Paris' earlier Gothic churches in that this has proportions that are substantial and slightly squat rather than soaring, which gives it almost a hulking presence. So, although it shares flying buttresses and other key elements in common with other Gothic masterpieces, I found it a slightly menacing structure, a place where where it would be easier to believe in a God of might and vengeance, rather than a God of love and forgiveness.

Anyway, enough of the fanciful imaginings, and back to the basics. The church was named in honour of St Eustacius, who was a Roman general who was martyred - along with his family - by being burned alive for converting the Christianity. In Gothic terms, the structure is quite late - only having been constructed between 1532 and 1632 (although there has been a church on the site since the 1220s) and, as a result, also reflects Renaissance influences. It is a church that has played a pivotal role in the lives of so many historical figures - the christenings of Madame de Pompadour, Cardinal Richlieu and the playwright Moliere, the funeral mass for Mozart's mother and the first communion of Louis XIV - and yet along with offering its services to the nobility and glitterati, it also ministered to the spiritual needs of the working class traders who plied their trades for centuries at the adjacent fresh produce of Les Halles until the late 1960s (see my other travel tip).

I personally don't find the interior as attractive or distinguished as the exterior - although others would probably beg to differ - although I do appreciate that one of the massive doors is kept open (although sealed with a glass door) to light up what would otherwise be a somewhat gloomy exterior. To my shame, I missed the Keith Haring memorial to 1980s AIDS victims in one of the side chapels because I hadn't done my research in advance and didn't realise that it was there - but I was absolutely enchanted by the whimsical cartoon-style monument to the former Les Halles traders in another of the side chapels (see my other travel tip).

St Eustache lays claim to the largest pipe organ in France, and thus is often the venue for classical concerts: watch posters and other media for updates.

Also don't miss out on the lovely public space and excellent kids' play area located on the south side of the church from where this photo is taken (see my other travel tip) - a wonderful place to catch up with friends, have a picnic lunch or just to recharge your batteries after a hard day's sightseeing!

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Of all the artworks that I expected to find lurking in a side chapel of the imposing Gothic hulk of Église St-Eustache, I can say with absolute honesty that this technicolour cartoonlike-tribute to the market traders of the Les Halles fresh produce market wasn't one of them!

The city's wholesale fresh produce market of Les Halles was located for centuries adjacent to St Eustache until it was relocated to more spacious and ergonomically designed quarters in Rungis in the Parisian suburbs in the late 1960s. This would undoubtedly have brought about quite a change in the neighbourhood - probably quieter and more genteel but less vibrant - and I found it touching that its colourful past would have been commemorated in this manner.

I regret that- despite my best efforts - I have been unable to discover anything else about this sculpture. If you are more knowledgeable on this sculpture and would care to address my ignorance so that I can upgrade this tip, then I'd be absolutely delighted!

Update: Having read pfsmalo's utterly brilliant 'off the beaten track' tips for Paris, I discover that this sculpture is by Raymond Mason, who also was responsible for a bronze sculpture called 'La Foule (The Mob)' close to the Jardin des Tuilieries. Follow this link for more information:
Raymond Mason's 'La Foule'

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When I think of my visits to Saint Eustache, the Da Vinci Code comes to mind. It is not fair I know because the church has been significant because of other occasions. I read from Wikipedia that Louis XIV received his communion here, Mozart's mother and Anne of Austria's last rites were given within its walls, etc.

Before going inside, enjoy looking at the church (during warm days, from the benches outside where Parisians sit down and relax). I find the Gothic features breathtaking. The church has many gargoyles. The windows are beautiful when observed from inside (the inner architecture is of renaissance style).

The church stands 33.45 meters tall, it is said to house the largest pipe organ in France. Behind the church are coffee shops which are worth a visit.

Opening hours according to its Website in May 2011:
Monday to Friday: 9:30 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Saturday: 10:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Sunday: 09:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.

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Considered one of the most important churches in Paris, Église Sainte-Eustache was the royal chapel from the 17th century until la Révolution. Construction work on this architectural masterpiece began in 1532, after its older predecessor was demolished to make way for a grander church, and concluded over 100 years later. Although the façade is Neoclassical, with a small Renaissance-style bell tower, the interior and rear of the church are an astonishing fusion of Renaissance and Gothic styles. A second tower, on the right hand side of the façade, was never completed and gave the façade a rather awkward lopsided appearance. Had the second tower been completed, the façade might have resembled that of Saint-Sulpice on the Left Bank. The impressive interior of Église Saint-Eustache rises to a dazzling height of 33 metres and is 105 metres long (see next tip for a description of the interior). Sainte-Eustache is located next to les Halles, the ancient Parisian marketplace.

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Saint-Eustache is a church built between 1532 and 1632.
I don't remember where I read that:

"It is another Parisian gothic gem. The church's reputation was strong enough of the time for it to be chosen as the location for a young Louis XIV to receive communion. Mozart also chose the sanctuary as the location for his mother's funeral. Among those baptised here as children were Richelieu, Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, future Madame de Pompadour and Molière, who was also married here two decades later. The last rites for Anne of Austria, Turenne and Mirabeau were pronounced within its walls.

Situated in an area of Paris renowned for fresh produce of all kinds, the church became a parish in 1223, thanks to a man named Alais who achieved this by taxing the baskets of fish sold nearby. To thank such divine generosity Alais constructed a chapel dedicated to Sainte-Agnès, a Roman martyr. The construction of the current church began in 1532, the work not being finally completed until 1637. The name "Saint-Eustache" refers to Saint Eustace, a Roman general who was burned along with his family for converting to Christianity. Several impressive paintings by Rubens remain in the church today. Each summer, organ concerts commemorate the premieres of Berlioz's."

Anyway, the historic references are only one more note in a very interesting visit.

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The massive interior of Église Saint-Eustache is nearly as impressive as the Notre-Dame de Paris. It measures 105 metres in length by 43 metres in width, and rises to a lofty 33-metre height. It consists of five aisles, flanked by richly decorated side chapels, and harmoniously blends Renaissance and Gothic styles, rarely seen elsewhere. The rib vaulted ceiling is quite remarkable, while the pipe organ is the largest in Paris. The church was consecrated in 1640 after just over a century of construction work, and it became the royal chapel thereafter. It was the site of royal and noble baptisms, weddings, and funerals.

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For my money, one of the loveliest exteriors of Parisian churches, St. Eustache towers over the northern side of "Les Halles" shopping mall. Originally the chapel of Ste. Agnes early in the 13th century, a short while after became St. Eustache. A crypt where from time to time concerts are held is still named Ste. Agnes, situated on the N-E wall along rue Montmartre. The decision to build a churth worthy of the name was taken and began in 1532. Financial difficulties were the bane of the church and was finished just over a century later and consecrated in 1637. Due to problems in the construction of the western wall it was decided to rebuild it in 1754. Once again financial difficulties were part and parcel of the work and even today the right hand or S-W tower on that side is still unfinished.

The church has had many well known names pass through its doors, among them the Sun King Louis XIV and Moliere were baptised here, and Colbert and Scaramouche are both buried here.

Reconstructed a few times, not least in 1989, the organ, with 8000 pipes is the largest in France, just in front of Notre-Dame and St. Sulpice.

On the N-E wall at no. 1 rue Montmartre, not far from the crypt can be seen a stone carving of a fish thought to be sign of Jean Alais, a fishmonger who became the first benefactor of St. Eustache, when he built the Ste. Agnes chapel.

Le Halles is the nearest metro.

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The church’s reputation was strong enough of the time for it to be chosen as the location for a young Louis XIV to receive communion. Mozart also chose the sanctuary as the location for his mother’s funeral. Among those baptised here as children were Richelieu, Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, future Madame de Pompadour and Molière, who was also married here two decades later. The last rites for Anne of Austria, Turenne and Mirabeau were pronounced within its walls. Marie de Gournay is buried there.