Albi Things to Do

You must visit the extraordinary and massive Sainte-Cécile Cathedral. It dominates the Albi skyline like a bird hovering over it's nest. It is quite impressive and dominating, and very captivating. The interior is grand and ornate, but not heavy or busy. It is just plainly magnificent. Jaw dropping, must not be missed!

The Palais de la Berbie, is one of the most spectucular spots in all of Europe. I was just amazed at how lovely it is. The views and scenery, the architecture and sculputure, and of course the impeccable gardens. All together they are breathtaking. Very impressive and lovely and a testement to the weath and power of the the French Church during the middle ages. The palace/fortress was built in the 13th century as the home for the French bishops and other cleric leaders of Albi. It is one of the most completely restored fortresses in France today.

This Palace is even older than the Palais des Papes (Popes’ Palace) in Avignon. Former the Bishops' Palace of Albi, it houses now the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum and the Tourist Office.

Its name comes from the Occitan word Bisbia, meaning Bishops' Palace.

For the Musée Toulouse-Lautrec/Toulouse-Lautrec Museum, I didn't visit it, so, I can't give you an opinion, however, I leave here the address and how to conact.

- Fax: (+33) (0)5 63 49 48 88

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Some other buildings were on the site where this Cathedral was built. The first one, from the 4th century, was destroyed in 666. The next one, from 920, received the name of Saint Cécile, the patroness of musicians and was replaced in the 13th century by a Romanesque Cathedral.

The Gothic Cathedral we can admire now, was built between 1.282 and 1.480. The bell tower, of 78 m. of height, was added in 1.492.

The exterior resembles a fortress, nothing to do with... (see next tip).

- Fax: (+33) (0) 5 63 43 23 44

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Lautrec was a minor great painter, in part because he did not live very long and had an infirmity. He was primarily a sketcher with a strong lively line. He became interested in the new technic of color lithography which required him to develop a simpler "Japanese"-like style and qualifies him to be considered as an Art Nouveau artist. He was very diligent in this field and his simplifications were probably less painful and not inhibited by his increasing alcoholism. He made many preparative sketches for his major works and had a keen memory as well. He was a strong influence on the expansion of color lithography as a technic. He brought a new style to commercial art through his creation of a large poster style. (The museum shows all of his 32 posters and most of his lithographs).He did not do this type of work for need of money but rather to spread his recognition. As a painter, he was not innovative but abandoned the tenets of Impressionism as he matured. The museum has a large number of his paintings from late childhood up until the end of his life. His lively work and subject matter (which is never obscene) and the wide distribution of his lithographs and posters makes it likely that almost every museum contains his work, and assures his lasting popularity. Albi has over 600 works in all the media that he employed. It is rare that one can get such an immersion in a single artist. (Although we could not copy his work at the museum, we were able to find good examples of their holdings from a folio at home).

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The Museum Toulouse-Lautrec is housed in the Berbie Palace (the name a corruption of the local term for a Bishop). When Bernard de Castenet started the cathedral in 1265, he altered the plans for his palace already underway to participate in the fortress function, including a donjon and massive protective walls. In 1598 after the Edict of Nantes, such precautions were eliminated and the bishops undertook beautifications (in the 17 and 18C) including an impressive set of terrace gardens facing on the Tarn. These can be seen to best advantage as part of a museum tour. In 1922 with bequests from Lautrec's family and friends, the palace became a museum in his honor. Since they had preserved a large part of his paintings and sketches, and all of his lithographs and posters were readily available, it allows one to see the entire development of his style from childhood to his premature death, along with preparatory sketches and efforts, an unusual opportunity about a popular artist. There are also shown important personal biographical materials (See our General Tip). Be aware that photography is not permitted in the museum (but vistas outward are allowed). Beyond that some contemporary works and a few earlier ones are on view (Guardi, Bonnard, Dufy, Utrillo, etc). For years the museum had a deplorable viewing reputation but that is no longer true.

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The Hotel is next to the Prefecture. It was the home of a rich merchant and now is the seat of the Chamber of Commerce. It has an inner courtyard entered through an impressive gate on the street. The courtyard is fronted by two a stone dressed arcade and gallery with a brick tower in the corner. In the courtyard is an ancient well (another sign of wealth). The two-light windows have sturdy stone carved central posts, mostly decorated with female figures. On one wall a carving displays the busts of Francois I and his second wife, Eleanor of Austria.

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This large 16C home is also known as the "Pharmacie des Penitents". It is on the next corner after the Prefecture. Today there is a modern pharmacy on the ground floor. It has most beautiful and varied carving on its vertical posts and horizontal frames and window surrounds. On one there can be seen, at the center, a "Mannekin Pis". Here in Albi, brick in various patterns fill the spaces instead of plaster, making the buildings sturdier and the most attractive in France. An old tradesman's sign hangs outside.