Castres Travel Guide

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The magnificent gardens were created by Le Notre starting in 1676. Since the Museumtakes a lunch break and a weekly market was underway not far off, we used the garden as a picnic ground. Its strong sense of order is emphasized by lanes lined by chestnut trees and massive geometric topiary forms. It all leads to a fountain and pool at the far end. Laterally the garden leads to a walk that is high above the Agout river with fine views of it and the opposite shore.

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The church is Benedictine and dedicated to him (St.-Benoit). It was built starting in 1677 to replace the Abbey (founded in the 9C) church because a cathedral was needed. It has since been demoted. It is a companion to the Bishop's Palace (started in 1669) next door. In the courtyard of the Palace is the old Romanesque belfry of the abbey church (no picture possible). Inside, the church is Baroque with a vividly painted ceiling and an Altar covered by an elaborate baldachin.

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The Bishop's Palace was started in 1666 according to plans of J. Hardouin-Mansart and Le Notre was commissioned to create the gardens. It became a museum in 1840. The son of a local painter and collector Marcel Briguiboul, donated his father's Spanish collection and personal works to the city (1893). In this treasure are 3 quality Goya paintings, plus 4 series of his etchings (the Caprices alone number 80). All of these and some late lithographs are displayed! Goya started on this aspect of his work late (1892) and is the greatest worker in this medium after Rembrandt. Moreover , it is at this time that his world view changed (depression and deafness), and the works are quirky and fanciful. They have influenced all of art since then. You may have trouble tearing yourself away. We had never seen such a display before! The rest of the Spanish collection is a brief overview of Spanish painting from the 14-20C, from Pacheco to Picasso. At least one of each artist,they are of modest quality (the Velasquez may be a contemporary copy). Photography is rigorously prohibited (checked on entry). Of course note the quality of the building and in its courtyard the belfry of the old Abbey church. Alongside the building is a gallery that is an extension of an old church cloister. The other end of the building contains the Hotel de Ville and on the second floor a small museum in honor of the sociologist Jean Juarez, a native son and valiant pleader for Dreyfus. He was assassinated in his prime. (We did not have time to look in).