Cordes Things to Do

At the center of all 13C bastides there was originally a covered market (Halles). (See our Tips on Aquitaine, where there are several:Read Aquitaine (General) and among others the typical one, Monpazier). The wood covered one of Cordes is a sturdy one supported by unusual octagonal stone columns. At a remove is the important well. We also did not depict an iron cross and a marble plaque erected almost immediately as part of a penance for the killing of three inquisitors sent here when it was hoped that Catharism had disappeared.

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The interior of the church is rather dark. It has tetrapartite vaulting with a broken pointed arch at the head of the choir, evidencing the changes of the 13C. The Rose and many other windows have crisply colored glass that does not look very old and we had information on the painting of the vaults.

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The church of St.-Michel has a combined belfry and watchtower which can be seen from the town gate. However it was built as the last part of the church in 1460-85 along with the present nave with internal buttressing like Albi Cathedral, while the watch tower addition recalls the church of St.-Salvy, also in Albi. The simple facade with a statue in the tympanum and a Rose Window were 14C. The church was started at the apse when the bastide was created in the 13C, still in Romanesque style, proceeding with apse, choir and transept area. Ultimately it retains its fortress-church intent. Most awkward is the entrance door to the tower, which is no longer usable, but has a nice accoladed arched door.

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We saw two other “grand maisons” like the others but did not learn their names. They were in the Halle area and had two floors of windows with similar treatment to the others. They had round arched windows in pairs with colonettes and decorated capitals and a pointed arched arcade at the ground level. Both had floral capitals but also a few human heads or other figures on the capitals and one had some iron brackets and rings as seen elsewhere.

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Similar to the Maison du G. Veneur, the Maison du Grand Fauconnier also has twp levels of traceried double or triple windows in ogival pairs, but without another dormer level above.At one time the projecting roof was decorated with images of falcons, from which its name derives. The building houses the Tourist Office and two small museums but our time schedule and the rain did not allow time for entry.

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Continuing up the Grand Rue, still on the right is another fine building. Like the Maison du G. Ecuyer, the Maison du Grand Veneur (Master of the Hounds), has two levels of double or triple windows above the arcade ground floor arcades, but the windows are quite different and definitely Gothic. They are pointed and ogival and recessed in broken arch surround. This is elaborated with traceried stonework, colonettes and small figurated carved capitals. A dormer level of square or pointed simple windows reflects the presence of another story above this. Starting on the right at the level of the arch points above the upper level of large windows runs an intermittent frieze or rather sets of carved face stones that depict hunting scenes (best seen with binoculars or by a good camera person). They perhaps are associated with the name of the building. (VT member gives fine pictures of two in his Tips). The facade is further decorated by the same projecting carved figures at the window rims and there are the iron brackets and rings, just as at the G. Ecuyer.

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We entered the Grand-Rue (also called the Rue Droite), which runs frm the gate to the town center (as in all bastides). On the right we encountered the first grand mansion , the early 14C Maison du Grand Ecuyer (Chief Riding Master). The ground level (of three) is arcaded with broad broken arches. The upper two levels have sets of windows in double pairs framed by applied colonettes with leafy capitals.The windows are round arched, a remnant of Romanesque style. (After all they did not recognize there was an artistic revolution). Projecting from the wall in no regular pattern are sculted animal figures somewhat resembling animals of the forest (hence the name of the house?). Another feature are projecting iron brackets with rings whose use is also uncertain.

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We parked in the directed place outside the gates; there is no vehicular entry into town. It looked rather shabby 15 years ago. Things have improved since then. This is the easiest way to the town sights. The Gate in the ramparts can be seen at the left of the picture; high above at the edge is a hint of the watch tower on the church belfry. The Gate is part of the encircling ramparts and is quite study and the outer iron bar drop gate is still in place. It is a fine example of 13C construction. Entering, one is on the Grand-Rue (or Rue Droite), ready to climb up to town.