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 Monument to the Czech Brigade near Vouziers by mtncorg Across the Aisne River from Vouziers is a memorial to the soldiers of the Czechoslovak Brigade which fought alongside the French in WWI. Czehoslovaks had been a part of the French Foreign Legion and had been a part of the fighting since the beginning of the war. An autonomous Czechoslovak army was established by French decree 19 Dec 1917, six months following the establishment of a similar Polish army. Two Czechoslovak Rifle Regiments would be created – the 21st on 18 Jan 1918 and the 22nd on 18 May 1918. These units initially fought as part of a French infantry division. The two regiments were eventually banded together as the Czechoslovak Brigade and saw action near Vouziers in the late fighting of 1918. Some 9,600 soldiers made up the brigade and it is thought that some 650 Czechoslovaks died on the Western Front. Of course, many more died fighting as part of the Austro-Hungarian forces in the East, Balkans and Italy, as well as those who died fighting their way across Russia as part of the Czech Legion. Leave a Comment
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The so-called ‘International Cemetery’ consists of three adjacent cemeteries: the French Auberiver-sur-Suippe Military Cemetery – 6424 men buried with 2908 in three ossuaries; a German cemetery is behind the French one with some 5359 men buried. On the west side of the French cemetery is the Polish cemetery le Bois du Puits. Polish soldiers fought for the Allied cause in both World Wars and are buried on both sides – some 129 from the First and 266 from the Second. Poles had been an integral part of the French Foreign Legion for years and as such they had been involved in fighting on the Western Front since the beginning of the War. Following a political agreement between France and a resurrected new sovereign nation of Poland, the units of what would become the Blue Army were formed. The men making up this force consisted of Poles serving already in the French army of ex-POW’s from German and Austrian armies, as well as Poles who flocked to the cause out of the Polish Diaspora – some 23,000 would be recruited from the US. The first Polish unit into the fight was the First Polish Regiment which began seeing action 18 June, 1918 here in Champagne. By 3 August 1918, the various polish units were combined into a Polish division. On 6 Oct 1918, General Jozef Haller, formerly commander of the Austro-Hungarian 2nd Brigade of the Polish Legion, took command and the Blue Army would also become known as Haller’s Army. At the end of the war, the Blue Army would travel by sealed trains across Germany to their new country where they would become the core of forces responsible for stopping the Bolsheviks at the Battle of Warsaw 13-25 Aug 1920, thus guaranteeing Polish sovereignty. With Poland’s collapse in September 1939, some 82,000 Polish troops would find their way to France to stay in the fight. Only 22,000 would make it on to Britain after France’s fall, though by the end of WWII, well over 200,000 would be fighting in Polish units of the Western Allies against the Nazis. Leave a Comment
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The Russian Expeditionary Force was sent to France in 1916 in exchange for badly-needed munitions that went to Russia. Many of the Russians would claim to have been ‘sold’ as a result of the trade. Four brigades were originally sent – almost 32,000 men – and many in France thought it was just the vanguard of a huge force to come, but developments in Russia negated that idea. As soon as the REF arrived, two of the brigades were sent on to the Allied beach head at Salonika in Greece leaving the 1st and 3rd brigades – just under 20,000 men – in France. Despite foreign food, homesickness, no mail and a belief that the French were using them as cannon fodder, the Russians fought hard and well until early 1917. With the fall of the Czar came elected Soldier’s Councils claiming the right to approve or disapprove Russian troop actions. They did vote to take part in the Nivelle Offensive of April 1917 and were given the opportunity to attack Fort Brimont just north of Reims. After some 6,000 casualties, the Russians said enough was enough and they were withdrawn to a rest camp at Neufchateau south of Verdun. The French had become concerned with the effect the Russians were having on French units serving alongside in the line – this was also a period of unrest and mutiny within the French army – and the Russians were withdrawn further to the south to an old French army base at La Courtine near Ussel, between Dijon and Bordeaux which was cleared to house the now-fractious Russians. Of the two brigades, the 1st was made up of mainly factory workers from around Moscow and they were very susceptible to the Bolshevik message of peace at any price. The 3rd brigade consisted of peasantry from the Urals who were more willing to fight on for a more suitable peace. The men of the 3rd decided to part company with the 1st and some 6,500 strong, they marched north camping out on a nearby plateau near Felletin, refusing French orders to return. By now, the French were glad to offer shipping –which they were desperately short of because of the need to bring Americans into France – but the Kerensky government in Russia already had enough mutinous troops on hand and refused to take them back. The 1st brigade refused to give up their weapons and became more revolutionary in spirit. On 10 Aug, the 3rd brigade was marched away to a camp near Bordeaux while French troops – and, it is thought other Russians from the 3rd brigade and reliable units from Salonika – encircled the 1st brigade troops. The rebellious Russians were given an ultimatum on 14 Sept to surrender within two days after which a careful bombardment brought about the eventual capitulation. About 500 ‘hard’ cases were sent to French prisons or penal battalions in Africa. The other 7,500 were given the choice of ‘voluntary’ labor in France or African prison camps – to which almost 3,000 were sent and very few returned. The remaining Russians loyal to the French cause were reorganized into the Russian Legion which fought all over the Western Front during 1918 – April/Villers Bretonneaux in the Somme; May/Chemin des Dames; July/Chateau Thierry. The Russian cemetery contains some 1,000 graves from the battles fought by the REF and the Russian Legion out of a total of 4,000 who died. Two ossuaries hold some 426 men while there are 915 individual graves. Located across the road from the Russian Memorial Church is a monument to the 2nd Special Russian Regiment which was part of the original 1st brigade. “Children of France, when the enemy is vanquished and you can freely gather flowers on these fields, remember us, your Russian friends and bring us some flowers.” Leave a Comment
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 The grave of Wilfred Owen - epitaph chosen by Mom by mtncorg, 3 more photos Wilfred Owen is considered to be the greatest of the British War Poets. Heavily influenced by another British War Poet, Siegfried Sassoon, Owen is known for his ability to transpose the horrors of war in the modern Industrial Age into poetry replacing the confident patriotism of earlier poets with shocking realism. Most of Owen’s poetry was published post-humously – “Dulce et Decorum Est, Anthem for Doomed Youth, Strange Meeting” for starters – as he died one week before the war’s end having only returned for a second tour of duty in France in July 1918. His initial foray began in January 1917 and ended after being diagnosed with shell shock following an episode in which he was trapped within a shell hole for three days. Sent home to recuperate at the Craiglockhart Medical Hospital in Edinburgh, Owen became acquainted with Sassoon there. Owen is buried with other British troops in the Ors communal cemetery near Cambrai where they were killed trying to cross the nearby Canal de la Sambre a l’Oise. He was only 25 years old. Leave a Comment
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On 19 May 1643, the Spanish Hapsburg Imperial army of some 27,000 men under the command of Francisco de Melo met the first Spanish battlefield defeat in a century at the hands of 23,000 French troops under the command of Louis Duc d-Enghien – then, only 21 years of age. The Spanish had been laying siege to the nearby fortress town of Rocroi – the fortifications are still worth a visit – when d’Enghien pushed forward to try and relieve the siege before more Spanish reinforcements arrived. The Spanish lost some 15,000 casualties compared to 4,000 for the French, but in recognition that while the Spanish tercios – infantry squares – had been bloodied but not broken, they were allowed to march away with their flags and weapons in hand. This war would drag on until 1659 when the Treaty of the Pyrenees affirmed the end of Spanish hegemony in Europe. Leave a Comment
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The large present French military base here at Mourmelon-le-Grande has its roots in the Second Empire of Napoleon III. Created as a summertime parade ground where Napoleon III could escape Paris and watch his troops parade in the dust of the Champagne Plains, the area became one of the first martial exercise training areas, something that continues to this day. During Napoleon’s time the ‘exercises’ took place as basically grand parades, but today’s French army has a more serious mission at hand. The exercise grounds have also been vastly enlarged with the addition of the region north of Suippes being added after WWI left nothing but devastation in its wake. Nearby you will find numerous cemeteries dating to the traumatic fighting of WWI as well as the remains of an ancient military camp dating to Attila - a place that Napoleon III used to like out to, sitting and brooding about the meaning of it all. Leave a Comment
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Looking north from the American Memorial on Mt Sec east of St Mihiel, I spied a little village that magically sat atop a point of the Meuse Heights jutting out above the Woevre Plain. Others have seen the magic in the scene before me. The Duke of Lorraine used to be a constant visitor to the chateau in earlier times. World War I damaged the town significantly as it did many others in the immediate area. Belle Skinner, a rich lady from Philadelphia, also noticed the magic during her visits after the war. She helped to rebuild the town and even bought and restored the chateau. Her efforts are remembered by the town with a plaque within the town Marie in Miss Skinner’s memory and in the naming of one of the two streets in the old town after here – Rue Skinner. If that isn’t enough to make you stop and pay a visit, then there is also the magnificent “Retable” that some ascribe to Ligier Richier or at least someone very close to him. The work sits quietly in the back of an ancient abbey church – now opening into the side of today’s parish church. Sculpturally exquisite, the expressions are amazing as stories appear within stories the longer you look at them. Leave a Comment
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A lone hill near the southern end of the Cote des Blanc and just east of the Marshes of St Gond, Mount Aime has a long history. Remains of a castle can be found among the picnic grounds atop the hill. Stories abound, from the 183 Cathars who were burnt at the stake in 1283 to WWI when the Germans occupied the hill during the Battle of the First Marne. Grapes lace the lower slopes as this is the southernmost extension of the Cote des Blanc subdivision of the Champagne appellation. Leave a Comment
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 Road sign noting you are going the right direction by mtncorg, 3 more photos A small road running atop the crest of the Argonne Forest, the Haute Chevauchee is a forest route gives you a good feel for the tough terrain soldiers encountered while fighting for four years amongst these woods. The poignant French military cemetery of La Forestiere and the Argonne Ossuary and Monument – built to commemorate the actions of all Allied troops who fought in this area – are to be found along this quiet back road. Leave a Comment
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 Deep in the forests, the Tranchee de Calonne by mtncorg, 4 more photos A Finance Minister for Louis XVI during the money crisis which support for the American Revolution instigated and would lead directly to the French Revolution, Charles Alexandre de Calonne had a chateau at the base of the eastern Meuse Highlands near Hatttonchatel. In order to better reach an estate he had purchased, he had workers build this road and then line the sides with roses. The chateau did not survive the French Revolution, but the road exists today cutting a straight swath through the forests atop the highlands. Heavy fighting occurred here during WWI and the remains of French novelist Alain Fournier were discovered recently along with 21 of his men just off the road. Leave a Comment
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