Boulouris-sur-Mer Things to Do
Go by train to Cagnes sur Mer to see...
I had read about the house in Cagnes sur Mer where Renoir spent the last twelve years of his life.by which time he was severely affected by rheumatoid arthritis. In spite of his disability he continued to paint though his swollen, misshapen hands often had to be bound with bandages to prevent painful knocks.
So we set off for the train station - looking forward to a spectacular ride along the coast, but for most of the journey we travelled through embankments with no coastal views.
On arrival at Cagnes sur Mer, and after leaving the station we quickly decided we had no reason to linger in the town.
It was a fairly stiff uphill walk to Renoir's House - one that I could not do now..!
At first sight the grounds and and house had a rather sad look.
Gone were the wonderful views of the sea that Renoir had loved and which inspired him - replaced by the sight of nondescript high rise architecture on the distant skyline.
The grove of olive and orange trees also seemed much reduced.
Inside the house, going from room to room, upstairs and downstairs, there was an empty dusty appeal. But the longer we were there it nevertheless portrayed in a truly simple fashion the life of the great artist who had lived and painted there.
The photographs of Renoir and his wife and family and their household, of his three sons and particularly his middle son Jean Renoir the brilliant film director, with copies of letters, and records of awards all created a clear view of the artistic energy of the family that lived here.
Such simple exhibits, so honestly displayed sent a shiver down my spine.
Since our visit the house has recently - after a total refurbishment - become MUSÉE RENOIR - a modern Museum/Gallery
I am so glad and feel privileged to have seen the house as it was when Renoir lived and painted there and will never forget his wheelchair or the photograph of his arthritic, painfully misshapen hands with which he continued to paint.
A recent TV news item about the New Museum which I saw seemed to me to have changed the family home and made it more like any modern exhibition space - the soul of that family house diminished - though the grounds were looking lovely which would have pleased Renoir.
Take a walk on the coastal path.
It was late November and a lovely day for walking.
We joined the path just down the road from where our apartment was - it looked an easier walk than the Pembrokeshire coastal path and I had read that it is possible to walk all the way from Boulouris to le Dramont. We soon found that the way was more difficult than it looked with some tricky rocks to negotiate, so decided to take our time going as far as we could and leave Cap du Dramont for another day.
That turned out to be the right decision - the lovely bright sunshine turned very quickly to dusk as the sun went down and we came home in the dark.
But it was a lovely walk - sometimes catching a magical light - and we ended up taking at least a stroll there every day of our stay in Boulouris.
1 Hotels in Boulouris-sur-Mer
1792 Route De La Corniche, Boulouris-sur-Mer, 8370
Good for: Solo
Boulouris-sur-Mer Warnings and Dangers
Eyes to the ground!
This is sadly a very common problem in many towns in France -streets fouled by dogs.
It was particularly bad in Boulouris on our last visit. When we arrived for a two week stay the boucherie was closed for annual holdays.
We expected on the morning it reopened to find that the disgusting mess on the doorstep had been removed. On the contrary it remained until after we had left at the end of another week. Needless to say we did not enter that shop to make a purchase.