Rene Socca, Nicoise
Specialities, Old Nice
by allaboutniceSpecialities, Old Nice
On one side of the road on a corner, you find a counter displaying pre-prepared plates of Nicois specialities, on the other corner there is a counter with no food, just an oven displaying different varieties of cooked pizza and a traditional socca oven, for the freshly cooked to order socca.
There is always a queue here, in fact two queues start to form, the food counter queue for all the different Nicoise specialities and the other queue for pizza and socca orders.
If you want a plate of food and socca, then either get a mate to stand in one queue or start off in the food counter first, after they've taken your order, you are asked if you will be wanting socca or pizza, they probably order for you and then you join the other queue. Are you still with me here?
It took us five years to sort this out!
You can take away - 'emporter' or eat on site, which means that you take your food and walk to the other side of the road and sit at one of the many wooden tables mostly outside and some inside too in the bar over the road. It's ok, it is all part of the same (and I hesitate to use the word) restaurant.
Tables hold up to about twelve, don't be shy, just settle yourself down. It's not considered the done thing to bagsie a table in advance, unless perhaps your are a large group and will buy drinks while your friends queue up for the food.
Many people are taking the food away, so there is usually plenty of room.
If you choose to sit, you must buy a drink from one of the busy orange-shirted waiters, so although the food is very cheap, pizza portions from 1,10 euros, don't forget to allow for a drink too - the cheapest drink is an espresso coffee, 1,50 euros (includes a biscuit) or a small glass of wine, also 1,50 euros, I then ask for a carafe of water which is free, although a large glass of chilled rose shouldn't break the bank too much for 2,20 euros either. The waiters are sometimes so busy you have to be patient, they are clearing tables etc.
On the whole, the plates of Nicois specialities, ie pan bagnats, beignets, farcis, pissaladiere, etc are all priced about 3 euros, the socca is 2 euros and chips are about 1,50 euros, pizza slices from 1,10 euros, sausage and chips is 2,50 euros. All the menus are on my external pages about Nice, see the link below. For pudding there is usually one large tray of raspberry torte, a large slice is about 3 euros.
I have noticed many groups of people all ordering separate dishes and then sharing them all between each other, a good way to test out all the dishes. It is a very popular place, whole French families descend on a Sunday, it take them 10 minutes to exchange kisses with everyone.
Expect to queue, but don't be put off too much, it is quite fast moving and there ARE two queues going on. If you are not sure what to order, just point at the dish you like the look of, if it needs heating that will be done for you. I have had the Nicois salad and the Pan Bagnat, the daughter has had the white bait and fish beignets, husband the sausage and chips, none of it will gain any Michelin stars, nor is it particularly super-sized but the three of us ate here last Sunday for under 9 euros, 11 if you include wine. Sachets of salt and a pepper shaker are by the socca counter, not on the tables. Really pleasant place once you've got the hang of it and such good value. If you come during Carnaval week in Feb, you will see the waiters all dressed up in exceedingly tarty drag, quite a sight.
