 | Nice Places/Towns on the Riviera Reviews | Tips 1 - 10 of 44 |  |
 | |  |  | Places/Towns on the Riviera: Once a year in Nice...(part 1) | Tip Rating:   |  |  | |  |
...we have a day out in St Paul de Vence The routine is as follows. Catch the bus no. 400 (Vence par St Paul) from the Gare Routiere (the main bus station) on boulevard Jean Jaures in Nice. The bus climbs slowly north of Cagnes and after about 30 minutes you can see the walled mediaeval village of St Paul to your left. You are decanted opposite the Moulin bistro just outside the village. Cross over to the bistro - this is where you will catch the bus back to Nice and it is a good idea to check the timetable so that you can plan your day. The main reason I come to St Paul is not for the village, but for the modern art museum, The Fondation Maeght. Walk up the road to the left of the bistro, cross over the main road and turn left up a steep drive set in woodland to the museum. It is about 10 minutes walk uphill. It is a few euros to enter and a bit more to take photos. The museum is light modern and airy and full of modern art and sculpture indoors and out. There are permanent pieces of art here such as the skinny Giacometti figures and the chunkier colourful Miros. One of my favourite pieces is a moving, clunking, metal water sculpture outside the tiny chapel. The temporary exhibitions change every year. Over the last 3 years, there was a wonderful Nudes of the 20th Century exhibition which included work by Lucian Freud, currently exhibiting in the Wallace Collection in London; two years ago, a Henry Moore retrospective with many of his sketches and sculpture and last year there was a Russian Avant-Gardes exhibition, which included a few pieces by Chagall. This was my least favourite of the three but I look forward to whatever may be on show this year. The web site is out of date so I will have to wait and see what is advertised on the posters when I am in Nice. The gift shop here has a nice selection of posters, postcards and arty gifts plus the exhibition guide, a weighty tomb and available in English. Please go to Part 2... Leave a Comment Address: St Paul de VenceDirections: Bus 400 from Nice to the walled mediaeval village of St Paul de Vence, several miles north of CagnesWebsite: http://www.maeght.com/musee/index.html Other Contact: http://www.saintpaulweb.net/spw/
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| | | | Places/Towns on the Riviera: Once a year in Nice...(part 2) | Tip Rating: | | | | |
...we have a day out in St Paul de Vence (continued from part 1) ...There's a small cafe near the exit with wrought-iron chairs designed by Giacometti (he was a friend of the Maeghts) which are more stylish than comfortable. Handy place for a coffee and loo break. You could have lunch here but instead head back down the hill (you can stay on the main road this time, turn right at the bottom of the drive) and have lunch in the famous restaurant 'La Colombe d'Or'. I have eaten here twice - it really is magical and friendly. The food is excellent; try the hors d'ouvres followed by the lamb - delicious. The artwork and sculpture are all original by artists such as Matisse and Leger. The restaurant is outside the village, on the left, entrance through a discreet stone arch. Reserve well in advance: http://www.la-colombe-dor.com/ After a long 2-bottle lunch you are finally ready to explore St Paul , so wander and explore in sozzled contentment. There are dozens of art galleries, ateliers and gift shops. I don't know much about the village because I really come for the Fondation and lunch but most guide books have a section devoted to St Paul. There is bound to be a tourist office here too with guides and maps. Many tour operators offer walking tours here. The following website is quite useful: http://www.saintpaulweb.net/spw/e_index.html. We just tend to walk to the end, gaze out over the cemetery take in the views and walk back, soaking up the atmosphere, soaked ;-) Just outside the village is a pleasant cafe bar called 'Cafe de la Place' where you can have (another) drink while you wait for the bus. There is often a game of petanque taking place outside. Or, go back to the Moulin bistro right by the bus stop; you can have an ice-cream or a drink here too. Perfect day out but comes with a warning - it can get very hot and busy especially in July and August but if that is the only time you can come then I think it is still an essential outing from Nice. See you there! Leave a Comment Address: St Paul de VenceDirections: Bus 400 from Nice to St Paul, a 50 minute journey taking you uphill and inland several miles north of Cagnes.Website: http://www.saintpaulweb.net/spw/e_index.html Other Contact: http://www.la-colombe-dor.com/
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