On the peninsula near my hotel there are several small streets with wall-to-wall restaurants that seem to be very popular among the local young people.
Rue Mercière, Rue Petit David and Rue de la Monnaie are all car-free (also parts of Rue Ferrandière, Rue Thomassin and Rue Tupin) and are all crowded with pedestrians just about any evening of the week.
This may look at first glance like a touristy area, but there are no post card stands or souvenir shops. My impression is that the tourists go mainly to the Old Town on the right bank of the Saône, while the locals tend to congregate here in the small streets on the left bank.
I counted thirty-eight restaurants, pubs, cafés and wine bars on Rue Mercière alone, but I might have overlooked a few. Some of them have funny names like “Oh Marie si tu savais” (a line from a Johnny Hallyday song, meaning “Oh Marie if you knew”) or “Qu'importe l'Ivresse” (“What does drunkenness matter”).
Second photo: Strolling on Rue Mercière.
Third photo: Restaurants by the Vélo’v station on Rue Ferrandière. Note that the restaurant on the left, with the green awning, is completely full, while the similar-looking restaurant on the right is completely empty. Apparently these are local people who know where to go and where not to.
There are a few latino places in Lyon but until now, I've only been to Mi-Barrio. It's quite a small place but the atmosphere is really tropical and the music is great (less jazzy than in Brussels, good cuban hits).
The Opera of Lyon stands at the opposite side of the Place de la Comedie from the Hotel de Ville. The present building has been extended upward to produce a semi-cylinder in glass over the original lower section including the original early 19C facade and the pediment with its statues. The upward extension allows for the enlargement of the auditorium and the addition of a restaurant. The roof is also creates a great addition to the evening sky at the central city.
Lyon has a rich and surprisingly budget-friendly nightlife. Bars and pubs often offer free concerts (anything from Jazz to DJs to World Music) and there's many so-called "boites", bars that are also great for dancing, but at free entry. Ok, the drinks' prices compensate for the free entry (4 Euro for a coke...), but if you don't drink a lot of alcohol you can get by spending very little. There's also real nightclubs with hefty entry prices, but as you can imagine, the free places are more lively as they attract more young people. At some places you have to ring a bell and will be faced with a self-important security guard, but don't let that scare you off. They just don't want masses of people to walk in without control and girls usually get in more easily than boys.
Speaking of nightlife in general, I also love the lively atmosphere in Vieux Lyon (rue du Boeuf, rue Saint Jean) or at Rue Merciere in the evening. There's many restaurants and when the weather allows it you have many people eating outside.
Places I've been and liked: Ninkasi, La Fee Verte, La Marquise, Sirius, Le Since, Le Bastringue, 6eme continent, Hot Club (Jazz), La Mosaique Tropicale. Other recommended clubs: La mi-graine, Barberousse, Eden Rock Cafe, Cafe du bout du monde, L'Ambassade
Dress Code: I've never experienced clothing being an issue...
“La Clef de Voute” (The Keystone) is a great jazz place in Lyon.
It is housed in an ancient (18th century) arced cellar on the “croix rousse” quarter.
The place was a nelected, concrete covered, cellar, full of garbage and spider webs before.
Stéphane Vincenza and Stéphane Rivero, where working two years with their own hands, to restore the place and give it back the lovely ancient look it has now.
Stéphane Vincenza and Stéphane Rivero are also the home pianist and bassist.
Together with Grégory Jouandon (drums) they form the “La Clef de Voute” trio.
The “Clef de Voute” was formed as an a non profitable association.
The people involved are passionate musicians who love to play together.
The bar at the place is very basic (and cheap!).
The atmosphere is very friendly and open, and the music is excellent.
Usually there are excellent guest musicians performing together with the “Clef de voute” trio.
The jazz concerts take place on the weekends (Friday and Saturday, 21.30) but it's better to check before coming (see telephone and website below) because there are weekends without a concert as well.
The concerts usually have a theme, like a homage for a particular musician, period or jazz style.
During the days the place serves as a music school where the people mentioned above are the teachers.
Personally I like very much to visit the place, and i hope those passionate guys will continue to have the energy and the money necessary to continue running the place.
Entry costs 6 to 8 Euros
Dress Code: As you like
I must admit to sleeping around in my favorite cities! :-) Blame it on wanting to experience...more
This is the view from my room. While not the best, I could see the Baslica and Fourviere.more
The hotel itself is fine - clean, with reasonable service and a small bar - pretty much what you...more