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Rue des Marronniers is a street close to Place Bellecour full of very nice restaurants full of local dishes.
The local culinary specialties are plentiful and varied: pork products and "Cervelle de Canuts" soft cheese with herbs, "bugnes" beignets, fried pork fat, Lyonnais salad, "tablier de sapeur" tripes, "gras double" tripes, "petit salé" ham with lentils, "quenelles" dumplings (a mixture of butter, semolina and fish), black pudding, "andouillette" chitterling sausage, "paillasson" fried hashed potatoes, and more, if you're still hungry! Leave a Comment
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When in Lyon you must dedicate some time in discovering "Bouchons Lyonnais" as they are an integral part of the city's identity.
Tracey and I decided to stop in this bouchon steps away from the old city centre. Nothing spectacular or extrordinary about Le Petit Glouton, our decision was based on hunger. Chances are we would have skipped this place if I hadn't been such a grump in need of food immediately.
Wine straight from the cask, spirited service, very attentive staff and easier on the wallet compared to other places in the area.
Oh, and if you have a weak stomach don't ask/look at what others around you are eating ie "Rosette de Lyon" is a sausage stuffed into the last bits of pork intestines including the anus, hence, the name "Rosette" (if you know what I mean).
Daily specials, called Les Suggestions, are chalked on a board in front of most bouchons.
Quenelle de brochet (pike dumpling)
This was my first taste of Lyonnais and I enjoyed every mouthful. Though at first glance, you would think, "This is polenta covered in cheese and it's not what I ordered."
The cornmeal used in creating the dumpling was fluffy, the crayfish sauce was suprisingly light for a heavy cream sauce (cream, cognac, crayfish, butter) and the amount of pike in the dish was perfect. A tremendous balance between cream, fish and the dumpling where no single taste overpowered the other.
Order wine by "the pot" or le pot - a glass bottle with a thick and heavy bottom. The wine, a Cotes-du-Rhone, wasn't exceptional by any standards but the romance of dining in a bouchon on the streets of old Lyon made up for that fact. And besides, I find Cotes-du-Rhone wines something of a gamble...either you find something great or you've just purchased bottled French toilet water. Leave a Comment Theme: FrenchPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: less expensive than averageAddress: 56 rue Saint JeanPhone: 0478373010Directions: In Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon) just down the street from St. Jean Cathedral.
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Very nice room in a former cave with arcades and contemporary paintings. A large choice of salads and they cook very nicely the "Ravioles" a pasta which is a specialty from Lyon. The only problem: it is often full! come early or make a reservation!
www.petitpaume.com
Best website to have good tips about Lyon's best place to have a drink, a lunch or fun! Made by students from my school: they tested everything! When they found it fantastic they give it the best rate: "RPPP" (Recommandé Par le Petit Paumé!)
I like their 13€ menu: raviole + big and original salad + good dessert! Leave a Comment Theme: Grocery Store/MarketPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: least expensiveAddress: 3, rue Fleurieu 69002 LyonPhone: 0033(0)4 78 38 24 46Directions: Presqu'île, close to Place Bellecour in the Perrache station direction Menu Midi : 9 €/ 15 € Menu Soir : 13 €/ 15 € Fermetures : -dimanche midi -dimanche soir Metro : Métro Bellecour
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Well, with wonderful Cotes du Rhone wines, and access to exceptional produce, dairy and meat, Lyon's restaurants are highly regarded. On a Saturday night (we forgot it was Saturday) with NO reservation (we should know better) we lucked into a table near the kitchen at Les Adrets. It turned out to be a good spot, as it was fun to watch the activity in the kitchen through a big glass window. Steve had the best choice of the night...a brochet of Lapin (rabbit). Leave a Comment Theme: FrenchPrice: US$31-40 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: 30 rue de BoeufPhone: 04 78 38 24 30
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The word "bouchon" usually means traffic jam or bottle cork in French, but in Lyon it has a special meaning: bouchons are traditional local restaurants serving a simple and savoury kitchen (no fine restaurants where you have to watch your table-manners carefully). Your trip to Lyon will be incomplete if you don't eat at a bouchon!
Beware: Bouchons are no place for vegetarians and if you're not into blood and guts (like me), you may find few things to choose from. However, here's some choices that are definitely very yummy and won't gross you out:
- Salade lyonnaise (green salad with fried bacon and a warm eggyolk)
- Boudin BLANC (very light veal or porc sausage, Boudin noir is a blood sausage...)
- Quenelles (a gratin of very light dumplings in a bechamel sauce with cheese on top)
- Cervelles des canuts (means "silkweaver's brain", but don't be scared: it's just fromage blanc with herbs and scallion, makes a nice dip for fresh bread)
At some places (for example the Cafe des Federations) you just choose the main dish and will have other stuff (starters, dessert and side-dishes) served to you randomly. Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: US$21-30 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageDirections: You can find many bouchons on the Presqu'ile or in Vieux Lyon. Good addresses: Cafe des Federations & Chez Paul, 8-10/11 rue Major Martin; Bouchon de l'Opera, 13 rue Terrailles; Chez Hugon, 12 rue Pizay; Chez Mounier, 3 rue des Marronniers.Website: http://www.lyonresto.com/restaurant_lyon_nv/cuisine_bouchon_restaurant_lyon.asp?caracteritiques_restaurant_lyon=bouchon
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Excellent Tapas in a fun environment.
Good choice of tapas written up on the black board, also main dishes available and a house selection of tapas for 10$ which lets you try a bit of everything.
Not the cheapest place to eat in town, but not too expensive either : you'll eat well and drink lots of wine or Sangria for about $20 per person.
I particularly liked the aubergine (eggplant) paté with cream of red peppers (capsicums). Also very good was the Soubressada, the carrots with Cumin were delicious and the spicy chick peas were pretty good too. They also have the standard selection of mussles, chorizo and tortilla. Leave a Comment Theme: OtherPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Rue des Pierres PlantésDirections: From the Croix Rousse metro station, cross over the boulevard and take the street that goes down the hill, the rtestaurent is about 100m down on the left.
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Auberge du Pont de Collonges is an authentic three star Michelin restaurant, famous for the fabulous French cuisine.
The famous chef Paul Bocuse (he had won his Meilleur Ouvrier de France title in 1961) named his grandparents' old restaurant the Abbaye de Collonges in memory of the monks on the Ile-Barbe; the letters of the BOCUSE family name shine out today from the roof of the restaurant they have now been running for over 50 years.
Specialities : soupe aux truffes noires (truffles soup), loup en croûte feuilletée (sea bass in puff pastry), filet de boeuf Périgourdine avec des pommes nouvelles (fillet of beef Périgourdine with freshness potatoes). Leave a Comment Theme: FrenchPrice: US$41 and up » Currency ConverterComparison: most expensiveAddress: 40 Rue de la Plage, CollongesPhone: +33 4 72 42 90 90Directions: Located at 4 km in the north of Lyon on the edges of Saone not far from the bridge of Collonges.Website: www.bocuse.fr
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Good local food at reasonable prices, in one of the central parts of Lyon but not right in teh middle which means less people and better service. Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: less expensive than averageAddress: 6 rue de la FrondePhone: 04 78 42 38 11Directions: Corner of Rue Gadagne, where the Guignol museum is
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Absolutely typical Lyon restaurent. Lots of meat & tripe dishes but also Quenelles which are fish dumplings. Wine comes in a "pot lyonnaise" which is less than a bottle and has a thick base to stop it being knocked over ! Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: 36 rue de l'Arbre SecPhone: 04 78 28 41 98Directions: Near the Opera
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There're so many good restaurants that you won't miss around the town center (Bellicore). Especially there're two dense restaurant areas I know. Check if the restaurant has English menu (if you have limited knowledge of French...). I tried wild mushrooms and duck... I can't wait visit there again!
Wild Mushrooms
Duck Confit
House red wine (half bottle)
Selections of cheese
Desert wine
Coffee Leave a Comment
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