A little-known but remarkable feature in Berlin's architectural history consists of the municipal market halls dating from the end of the 19th century, four of which are preserved in their original condition or are being restored.
The market halls were an improvement: for the residents next to the old weekly markets they eliminated a source of smell and noise, and the customers and traders could now conduct their business out of the weather and in a more structured fashion.
Market hall VI in Ackerstrasse is the only one of the four old halls which still have the original exterior. Like all the halls it has two entrances, but whereas they were usually at the ends, here they are in the corners. Most market halls were built in a block residential context so that only two narrow facades had to be financed. Small shops were established next to the entrances, and dwellings for the shop owners were created on the first floor.
All halls were built to a uniform pattern: a high central aisle lit by side windows leads into traverse side aisles with skylights. The roof is supported by cast-iron girders and steel trusses.
Lively market activity can still be seen in the Arminiushalle in Moabit which, unusually, occupies an entire block. However, the facade facing Arminiusstrasse has been altered, and the same applies to the market halls in Kreuzberg on Eisenbahnstrasse and Marheinekeplatz.
Written Aug 7, 2005
For a retail spectacle of another sort, try window-shopping the Kaufhaus Lafayette, where the architecture is as impressive as the inventory.
What to buy: When we went there they had a fantastic exhibition on Barbie dolls wearing designers fashion... (watch my travelogue for that!)
Written Aug 7, 2005
If you are looking for a good shoes, set your path towards Budapester Sucher on Kurfürstendamm. The large store has an excellent selection of luxury brand shoes for both he and she.
The focus is on formal shoes, but there is a number of more relaxed footwear, too. Brands include, for example, Prada, Miu Miu, Dior and Gucci The prices are high, as usual with these brands, but not outrageous. On the other hand, my view may be tilted, as good shoes are so expensive, and virtually non-existent, in Finland for some reason.
The shop has also a limited number of accessories, such as scarves and bags. There is a small number of shoes for children, too.
Written Aug 6, 2005
Address: Kurfürstendamm 199
Phone: +49 30 881 1707
B Cover has a small window facing Kurfürstendamm, but the bags on display are so colourful and geometric in shape that there is always at least one or two persons looking into the shop.
The bags are their own design, and they really set you apart from the crowds -- in a positive manner. Prepare to hear oohs and aahs from your friends understanding something about the style. The rest will most probably claim that the bag looks a little odd.
The selection is available in a range of colours, but they may have to manufacture the bag for you, so this option is not for the occasional city visitors. The only minus is the hefty price.
Written Aug 6, 2005
Address: Kurfürstendamm 210
Phone: +49 30 881 1445
Secondhand shops are everywhere all over Berlin. You can find clothes, furniture, tools, shoes, household goods, whatever you might need. Usually they are just narrow shops with clothes hanging in the window maybe so you know what it is, some are more popular than other. My favorite is Garbage, its got good stuff. I look there regular because often you can find clothes for taller men. This we need. You can find it off Nollendorfplatz. Go to the right out of the station, about 2 blocks then left. Its a large square buildings not too high.
At Adenauerplatz you can see Humana secondhand. If you are riding the bus, as you cross the platz you can see it clearly as its on the square, or take the U-bahn 7 to Adenauerplatz. Some of the best second hand shops are in Kreuzburg, Schöneburg, and Pankow to me.
What to buy: I always looks for good jeans and dress shirts, sweaters and coats, some boots and belts.
What to pay: I wouldnt pay over 16.00 for a good coat, 6.00 for some jeans or trousers, 4 or 5.00 for a good sweater, and usually 2 or 3.00 for a dress shirt. If its a very unique thing I will pay what they ask the first time because someone else will get it otherwise. If its just so-so, I wait and come back when they regularly mark down the prices and try to get it then. After holidays and season end is good time.
Updated Jun 3, 2005
Alusi ephaemeral art is company and label at the same time.
The Artist designs, produces and manufacuters a special kind of a candle in a part of her home. You can buy this wonderful candle directly from the artist.
She's a very nice person and if she has a little time she'll tell you the story of "Shama the beautiful" - but if you haven't enought time to visit her - visit her online shop ! Mrs. Alusi speaks fluently english and the communication with her is no problem.
What to buy: Exclusive Candles and more
The Candles have a various number of flames. Every "Shama" starts with one flame - when the candle is burning the candle get two or three flames - a special present for an exciting evening!
What to pay: Fair prices!
Updated May 15, 2005
Address: Reichshofer Strasse 20 14195 Berlin
Phone: 0049-(0)30/23366860
Website: www.alusi.de
If you're looking for used English books, or for open poetry nights, stop by East of Eden, which really isn't too far east and really is smack in the middle of Eden. I'm fond of the street that it's on by the way: Schreinerstraße is colorful but human, and the people that work at East of Eden are friendly and all look like moonlighting alcoholic musicians, which they probably are. Nobody's going to look down on you if you buy something trashy (which is more than I can say about some other bookstores). The sofas are mighty inviting too. Mon-Fr 12-19 Uhr
Sat 12-16 Uhr
Written Mar 4, 2005
Address: Schreinerstr. 10
Phone: (030) 423 93 62
There is one ostalgie grocery store in Alexanderplatz near the u2 platform
What to buy: although the wall fell over a decade ago, you can still buy many old DDR brands, and a lot of supermarkets like Kaufland in the east stock these old favorites. My favorites are the candies: where else can you find such cute and whimsical package designs? "Ostalgie" is the nostalgie for the "Ost" or the east. Some of the brands have sold their names and are mere fronts for the same generic digitalkamera from South korea and so on, but the food seems to retain a bit more integrity.
Written Jan 11, 2005
Saxon Porcelain is probably the most famous in Europe, and "Meissen of Dresden" is probably the most famous German maker. Meissen has a shop right next door to KPM on Unter den Linden.
An interesting and short history of porcelain manufacture in Europe can be found in "The Arcanum" by Janet Gleeson.
Written Jan 1, 2005
In the 18th Century, the Kings of Prussia (like other European monarchs) encouraged the development of a domestic ceramics industry. Porcelain was one of the most glamorous of all domestic items, and no country would be satisfied until it was producing its own supply of fine tableware, vases, and gegaws.
KPM - the Royal Porcelain Factory - was established by Frederick the Great in 1763. It's still producing porcelain 240 years later. Their shop in the Mitte district displays their wares in a glamorous setting - near the interection of Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse. I came into the shop just to look, but the sale clerk I spoke to was quite friendly and informative. Of course, if you have to ask how much any of the beautiful merchandise costs, you probably can't afford it.
Written Jan 1, 2005
Address: Unter den Linden, just east of the Komische Oper
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Travel tips and advice posted by real travelers and Berlin locals.

In the 18th Century, the Kings of Prussia (like other European monarchs) encouraged the development of a domestic ceramics industry. Porcelain was one of the...
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