Gendarmenmarkt, Berlin

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This is one of Berlin's most beautiful squares, created at the end of the 17th century as a market square. It is named after the Regiment Gens d'Armes who had their stables here. In 1950it was named Platz de Akademie, but after reunification the square reverted to its original name.

Although the two churches on opposite sides seem identical at first they differ from each other quite considerably. Their only common feature is the front towers. Between them stands the Konzerthaus. In front stands the white marble statue of Frederich Schiller on a high pedestal surrounded by allegorical figures representing Lyric Poetry, Drama, Philosophy and History.

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Gendarmenmarkt is said to be one of the most beautiful squares in Europe and after seeing it I have to agree. There are two beautiful churches on the opposite sides of the square and between them a concert hall (Konzerthaus). Gendarmenmarkt is a very idyllic place and you'll get many lovely photos there!

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The Gendarmenmarkt is considered one of Europe's most beautiful squares, the name derived from a cavalry regiment named Gens d'Armes centered here between 1736-82. The original late 17th Century plan by Nering was altered by Georg Unger in 1777 incorporating the three buildings surrounding it. The oldest is the French cathedral built by immigrant Huegenots in 1701-5, modelled after a destroyed church in France. Second came the German cathedral at the south end of the square built between 1702-8 in the form of a pentagon by Simonetti with plans by Martin Grunberg. The churches were both different and not of architectural interest until 1785 when Carl Gontard added symmetric domes and columned porticos to each - today the facades appear essentially identical.
In 1821, Karl Friedrich Schinkel, Berlin's leading architect filled the west side of the square with the famed concert hall, fronted in the center of the square by a statue of the German poet Friedrich Schiller placed in 1871. Business buildings occupy the east side, also built in classic style. All the major buildings were severely damaged during WWII, with reconstruction to original plans extending into the 1990's. Today the churches feature museums and restaurants while the concert hall is the home venue for the Berlin Symphony Orchestra.

The surrounding area of Mitte has undergone rapid commercialization with trendy restaurants, shopping malls and boutiques and several very upscale hotels including the Sofitel, Hotel de Rome ( which is breathtaking), and a Hilton and is at the center of the most upscale renovations in the East Berlin Mitte area.

We chose to visit after dark - the square was deserted and we were alone with the atmospheric lighting of these famed buildings and the beauty of the square. As with Bebelplatz ( see below ) perhaps the best time to visit and reflect on the past.

Only in the first instant it is surprising to find a statue of Friedrich von Schiller on Berlin’s Gendarmenmarkt, as we Schwaben from the land of Württemberg consider Schiller as “our” poet and philosopher. But in fact he was – together with Goethe – Germany’s greatest classic writer, philosopher, dramatist and poet, and so it is absolutely normal that he has a place in front of Berlin’s former national theatre.

Schiller was born in Marbach on the river Neckar, near Stuttgart, on 10 November 1759 in the south of Germany, and he died on 9 May 1805 in Weimar, only 45 years old, from acute pneumonia. On Goethe’s request he later was buried at Schiller’s side. In the city of Weimar both poets stand side by side on a monument. He was ennobled in 1802, by the addition of “von” in front of his last name.

Schiller’s plays are part of the standard repertoire of German theatres. His first big hit was “Die Räuber” (The Robbers) in 1776. The premiere in Mannheim (1782) was a huge success, especially young people loved it. However, the reigning Duke of Württemberg was not impressed and imprisoned the poet for two weeks and forbid him to write comedies and similar stuff.

Then Schiller wrote “Kabale und Liebe” (Intrigue and Love) and “Don Carlos”, later “Wallenstein”, „Maria Stuart“, „Wilhelm Tell“, and „Die Jungfrau von Orléans“ (The Maid of Orleans). I think everybody at my age and time had to learn “Das Lied von der Glocke” (Song of the Bell) by heart, and my father still knows every word of it.

Many of Schiller’s poems and dramas became musical pieces. You might have heard “Ode an die Freude” (Ode to the Happiness) which Beethoven used for this 9th symphony. Verdi adapted several of Schiller’s play for his operas, “Don Carlos” is just one of them.

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The Schauspielhaus (theatre) which became Konzerthaus (concert hall/philharmony) in 1994 is sitting between the German and the French Dome on the western side of Gendarmenmarkt. It was designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel and built on the ruins of the National Theatre which had burnt down. Construction time was from 1817 to 1821. The Baroque transformation took place in 1903 and 1904.

Originally the Schauspielhaus was just a brick building. It became a splendid building by screening the exterior with glorious sandstone panels.

After the destruction of World War II only the exterior was reconstructed true to the original. The interior was completedly altered. Instead of a theatre with a stage they built a concert hall with space for an 1850 people strong audience. Inauguration was in 1984. Ten years later the Schauspielhaus was renamed into “Konzerthaus Berlin”.

Guided tours on most Saturdays at 1pm, phone (030) 20309-2343, fee 3 Euro

Free tours with volunteers must be checked on the blackboard on site or on the internet website.

Registration for group tours:
press@konzerthaus.de
Phone (030) 20309-2343

There is no internal access from the French Dome to the adjoining Friedrichstadtkirche which was built from 1701 to 1705. It was designed by Jean Cayart and, after Cayart’s death, by Abraham Quesnay for the Huguenots who had fled their Catholic country, wanting to follow their protestant belief after Calvin’s reformation.

From the outside the church looks more like a small French palace, with its beautiful exterior staircase.

The Huguenots had raised the money to build the church, King Friedrich I provided building materials. The Huguenots did all the work. In 1905 the church was altered in Baroque style, and after the extensive damage in World War II it was reconstructed from 1978 to 1983.

The building is a good example of the simplistic approach of the reformed church. You will not find anything bombastic. The windows are simple, and even the name does not glorify any saint or admired person. The exception is the organ with a golden corona including the Eye of God. (The organ’s carvings had been stored at a separate location during World War II, so you still see the original from 1755.). Reformed churches originally had no instruments.

The addition of the beautiful exterior staircase became necessary in the reconstruction process after World War II when an intermediate ceiling was inserted and the interior became a two-storey building. The lower level is used for functions of the community, the church itself and the organ are on the upper level.

Today the church is used by three communities, of course, including the descendants of the Huguenots who once founded and built the church. They often have organ concerts. If you happen to be there you either have to leave the church or pay an entry fee.

BTW The holes you might spot on the outside surface of the church are no bullet holes from the War but signs of environmental damage.

Mass with organ music Tue – Fri 12.30pm
30 min organ music Tue 3pm
Organ concert: Every first Thursday of the month (8pm)
Musical vespers: Every third Sunday of the month (4pm)

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The church beside the French Dome is the French Friedrichstadtkirche, named after the suburb Friedrichstadt. (See extra tip.)

To build the purpose-less French Dome beside this church between 1780 and 1785 the French Huguenots’ cemetery had to be relocated. In exchange the Huguenots got the right to use the dome for all times. They had once fled their Catholic home country for practising their protestant religion after the reformation by Calvin.

Dome and Friedrichstadtkirche were nearly completely destroyed in World War II but were reconstructed between 1981 and 1987. The Dome is used today as the Huguenots’ Museum (Hugenottenmuseum). It displays the history and the life of the French immigrants.

Open Tue – Sat 12pm – 5pm, Sun 11am – 5pm
Entry fee 2 Euro

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The German Church beside the later added dome-shaped building on Gendarmenmarkt was built from 1701 to 1708. Already 80 years later it crumbled, so it was demolished and reconstructed in Baroque style.

The purpose-less dome-crowned tower was added from 1780 to 1785. It was badly damaged in World War II and reconstructed between 1982 and 1996. In 2002 it even got a purposed. The building is used for an exhibition of German parliament, telling the story of Germany’s parliamentary democracy. The title is: “Wege, Irrwege, Umwege” – paths, meanders, deviations.

If you are not interested in this exhibition there is not more to do than to have a look up to the top of the tower where you can see the sky through a round skylight.

Not sure about the entry fee. On the internet I read it is free but I think to remember that you would have had to pay a fee.

Open Tue – Sun 10am – 7pm (October to April only until 6pm), guided tours at 11am, 1pm and 4pm