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| Unter den Linden tips and photos posted by real travelers and Berlin locals.
Unter den Linden, Berlin-Mitte
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On the eastern end of Unter den Linden, gathered around the monument to Friedrich the Great we find some of the most important buildings in Berlin. It is amazing to compare what we have today with images showing the 1945 postwar rubble and it must be admit that the former GDR has put a lot of effort, time and money to reconstruct all these historic buildings.
Humboldt University today occupies the building that was originally palace of Friedrich the Great's brother. After Wilhelm Humboldt established the University here in 1809 this was the house of some of Berlin's best brains including Karl Marx, Karl Liebknecht and Albert Einstein.
When I was here a small market of used books was held in front of the main entrance and it made a nice contrast with the Neoclassical facade of the University building. Leave a Comment
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Unter den Linden (under the lime trees) starts at the Brandenburg Gate and ends at the Schlossbrücke Bridge and is approximately 1 mile in length. It is a street that has a grassed central mall with a carriageway running down either side. It is a place to sit and rest, have a drink or something to eat. It is a street of grand buildings right in the heart of Berlin with expensive hotels, embassies, museums, the State Opera House, University Buildings and statues. The street has a long history with the lime trees first being planted in 1647 and was used as a riding path, over the years contained many grand buildings and palaces. The area ended up totalling ruined during WW2 with all the trees being cut down for firewood and all the building destroyed but reconstruction over the years has returned the street to its former glory. Leave a Comment Directions: S-Bahn: Unter den Linden, Bus 100
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Berlin's magnificent boulevard, the centrepiece of the Old Berlin, leads from Pariser Platz at the »Brandenburg Gate to the Schlossbrücke bridge. Unter den Linden was originally a bridle path: from 1573, it led from Berlin Palace to Lietzow, later Charlottenburg, and then on to Spandau. From 1701, the Linden became more and more built up, mirroring the rising splendor of the monarchy and the new architectural style.As time went by, the »Zeughaus (Arsenal) and the Friedrichstadt appeared; under Frederick the Great, they were joined by the Kronprinzenpalais, the Prinzessinnenpalais, the »Opera House and the Palace for Prince Heinrich, now the Humboldt University. The »Forum Fridericianum, begun at the end of the 18th century, was to be the intellectual and artistic centre of the monarchy, with the »Staatsoper, the Academy Library, »St. Hedwig's Cathedral and, on the opposite site, the Palace of Prince Heinrich. Schinkel's great architectural achievement was the unification of the various buildings and styles into a single aesthetic concept: this led to the creation of the »Neue Wache (New Guardhouse), the Schlossbrücke bridge and the redesigned Lustgarten; in this way, Unter den Linden became a coherent ensemble. At the end of the 19th century, the »Berliner Dom was constructed.
During the Second World War, Hitler ordered the linden trees to be chopped down so that the road could be widened and integrated into the east-west axes; by the end of the war the avenue was a wasteland of ruins. Those buildings which still stood were gradually reconstructed, but the real work of rebuilding, which included the demolition of the Stadtschloss (Berlin Palace), only began in earnest in 1958. Sleek, 1960s buildings with uniform façades began to appear. The place of the former Berlin Palace was taken by the Palast der Republik (Palace of the Republic) which had to be closed in the nineties due to its intoxication with asbestos. Since the Fall of the Wall, many buildings have been restored and reconstructed. Leave a Comment Directions: S-Bahn: Unter den Linden, Bus 100
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This venerable opera house has been the scene of some very lively and innovative productions in recent years, for instance Rinaldo by Georg Friedrich Haendel (1685-1759).
This production was not only hilarious, it was also carefully timed so the gags and the slapstick fit in very well (I thought) with Haendel's music. All the singers seemed to be having a great time performing it, especially Miah Persson as Almirena. It was voted Production of the Year by the critics of Opernwelt Magazine in 2003, and the cast recording was voted CD of the Year.
While everybody seems proud of the recording (I'm listening to Miah sing Lascia ch'io pianga from the second act as I write this), the production remains controversial even internally. One of the people involved later told me she couldn't understand why all those critics voted for such a stupid production. "Those must all be people with no taste." Can't say I was terribly flattered, since I liked the production so much myself. (LOL) Leave a Comment
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On my most recent visit to the State Opera Unter den Linden I saw the opera Norma by Vincenzo Bellini (1801-1835).
This is a bel canto opera, and the singing really is beautiful but the plot is often criticized. It takes place in ancient Gaul under the Roman occupation, and you keep expecting Asterix and Obelix to pop up from behind the bushes at any minute. Norma is the head priestess of the Gauls, but she is secretly in love with the Roman governor and has even borne him two children. (We are asked to believe that nobody in the small Gallic village has noticed this.)
I found the Berlin production quite moving, though, because they stressed the one aspect of the plot that is (unfortunately) timeless, namely the plight of an older woman whose lover (and father of her children) decides to leave her for a younger woman (in this case a younger priestess at the same temple).
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Alte Kommandatur (Old Army Headquarters) us located at number 1 Unter den Linden. It was destroyed in WW2 and only recently reconstructed based on a model to become the headquarters of a German company, Bertelsmann AG. The original Alte Kommandatur was built in 1653 and added to in 1874. The building does not get much of a mention in any of the litrature I utilesd before my trip but it interested me when I saw it and given it was number 1 in the street I wanted to know more of it's history. To the left of the building you can see part of the Schlossbruke (well known ornamental bridge) and to the right part of the buidings neighbour to Kronnprinzenpalais (Crown Princes Palace). The Friedrichswerdersche Kirche (Former church now utilised as a museum specialising in sculptures) situated behind Alte Kommandatur is well worth a visit. Leave a Comment Directions: S-Bahn: Unter den Linden, Bus 100
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Memorial dedicated to all victims of war and tyrany. Completed in 1818 as a memorial for those who fell in the Napoleonic wars but has been re dedicated a number of times over the years. Original use was that of the royal guardhouse. Contains a larger replica of the Mother with her Dead Son scultpure by Kathe Kollwitz in it's centre which is very touching. The floorspace within Neue Wache is not large but the opportunity to step off a busy street and reflect is appreciated by many. The building archictecture incorporates representations of the goddesses of victory and allegories of War: Battle, Victory, Flight, and Defeat. Note that directly behind Neue Wache stands the cities oldest concert hall the Maxim Gorki Thearter which was built in 1827 and worthy of a detour from your walk down Unter den Linden to view. Leave a Comment Directions: S-Bahn: Unter den Linden, Bus 100
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The Deutches Historisches Museum built in 1706 is one of many historical buildings to be viewed on a walk down Unter din Linden. I have seen it stated that the Zeughaus is the oldest buiding on Unter den Linden. It's original role was that of an arsenal but it now operates as the german historical museum. At this point in time the museum is not fully operational due to major construction works being underway. Check out the web site provided to see the current building works status and what is on offer. Leave a Comment
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Bebelplatz is a city square which was the site of the Nazi book burning for which a memorial, a clear panel sitting at ground level through which empty book shelves can be seen, has been constructed. The buildings around the square are very impressive and include the Alte Bibliothek (built in 1775 as the royal library and now part of Humboldt University), St-Hedwigs Kathedrale (Catholic Cathederal completed in 1778) and Staatsoper (Opera House completed in 1743). The interiors of St-Hedwigs Kathedrale and the Staatsoper are very worthy of a visit, tours of the Staatsoper can be booked in advance. You cannot miss the equestrian statue of Frederick the Great (completed 1851) on Unter den Linden near Bebelplatz. While your in the square your not that far from Gendarmenmarket, a beautiful city square, which you might want to incorporate into your walk down Unter den Linden. Leave a Comment Directions: S-Bahn: Unter den Linden, Bus 100
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This avenue leads out of the former centre of the city up to the Brandenburger Tor. Along this course of nearly a mile, it is bordered by royal palaces, museums, theatres,libraries and international consulates (russian). It is crossed by the famous Friedrichstrasse and the campus of the Humboldt university and many more. Leave a Comment Directions: S-Bahn: 1,2 Unter den Linden S-Bahn: 3,5,7,9 Friedrichstrasse Bus 100,147,200,348 Brandenburger Tor/Friedrichstrasse/Staatsoper
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Knesebeckstrasse 67, Berlin
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