Darmstadt Things to Do

  • Haus Deiters, Darmstadt
    Haus Deiters, Darmstadt
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  • Platanenhain, Darmstadt
    Platanenhain, Darmstadt
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    History House, Darmstadt
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Most Recent Things to Do in Darmstadt

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    Marktplatz - market square

    by Trekki Updated Jan 10, 2014

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    Town Hall - Rathaus and beer garden
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    Marktplatz (market square) is another square in the town centre, but located opposite of the main entrance of Residenzschloß (Residence Castle). Fruit and vegetable market is being held here on Saturdays, where mostly local produces are being sold. However, compared with other cities like Mannheim, the market here in Darmstadt is nothing to write home about. Maybe the city officials don’t encourage our farmers to come and sell or, maybe the rent for stalls is too high.

    But there is another market, held on Wednesdays, at Riegerplatz in the northern part of town. There really good and fresh produces can be bought from 07:00 to 14:00.
    Another alternative for fresh produces, especially eggs, vegetables and fruit, is the cooperative Hofgut Oberfeld in the east of town. They make fresh bread every day, bake the most delicious cakes and have suppliers for vegetables from all over nearby Odenwald. They have obtained the label “Demeter” which means highest quality, ecological farming and genetically modified-free.

    But back to the market square. It exists since mid 14th century, after Darmstadt received its “city rights”. This gave permission to hold weekly and yearly markets.

    On the opposite site of the castle is the town’s Rathaus, the town hall, which is of late renaissance (built 1588-90), but was rebuilt in it’s original style after WW II bombing. It houses some municipal departments and the civil registration office. But most famous is the restaurant “Ratskeller” (english menu here => click), which serves Bavarian snacks and has its own brewery (Export and Pils and Maibock in the season). It is open daily from 10 a.m. to midnight.

    Location of Darmstadt’s market square on Google Maps

    And its alternatives:
    Location of Riegerplatz & market on Google Maps,
    Location of Hofgut Oberfeld on Google Maps.

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Waldspirale - Hundertwasser house

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Hundertwasserhaus - Waldspirale, Darmstadt
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    Yes, Friedensreich Hundertwasser also built one of his typical houses here. It is called Waldspirale (translates into something like forest spiral). It is said to be the 7th building in Germany by Friedensreich Hundertwasser and it was completed in 2000 with 105 appartments, playground for kids, an artificial lake and some restaurants and bars. When it was opened, it looked quite naked, but now, after several years, the plants and shrubs have grown also on walls and stairs. None of the 1000 windows is identical, no straight lines are used. It has three onion domes, and at the highest point 12 floors. Well, to be precise, it is not a spiral, but more a hairpin shape. But does that matter?

    The little restaurant on the southwestern side served, excellent Caffee Latte (for 2,50 €, mid 2007) and it was nice to sit on their terrace and look at every tiny detail.
    And there was also a little shop that sold everything of Hundertwasser style, like photos, books, calendars etc.

    Update August 2010:
    The cafè is gone, deteriorating. Same for the shop. Sad. I really hope that new tenants decide to open up their businesses here.

    Other houses of Hundertwasser, shown by VTers are:
    Mira's page about Bad Blumau, Austria, a whole resort made by Hundertwasser,
    Christine's newest page about Lutherstadt Wittenberg and the Hundertwasser school.

    Directions:
    By car: A5, exit Weiterstadt, follow the signs for Kranichstein, and at the crossings of Frankfurter Str. with Carl Schenck Ring, follow the signs for Waldspirale.
    By tram: from Luisenplatz, tram 7/8 or 6, and exit at Rhoenring. Turn right after the Esso gas station.

    Location of Waldspirale on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Botanical Garden, incredible plant variety

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Kalmia latifolia in June (2006)
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    Botanical gardens are something special, provided the plants have been planted many years ago so that they are already quite huge. Darmstadt’s Botanical Garden was initiated in early 19th century, but had to move several times until it finally settled where it is still today: in the east of town, just east of Großer Woog, the public swimming lake. From what I have read, the operators these days have collected plants and shrubs from all over the world. Today it is a marvellous jungle with huge and protruding trees of different species and an interesting selection of plants.

    The park is quite large, but while walking through it, I never had any idea how big it really is, due to the maze of small paths all over in the park. I was lucky enough to have visited the park first in early June, so I was thrilled by the enormous variety of plants I never ever heard about before. My favourite was the one in my main photo: Kalmia latifolia. It grows naturally in the US from what I have read. The wax like blossoms looked gorgeous. But there are more parts in the park, such as an alpine garden near the greenhouses, a herb garden and some exotic plants even from Himalaya region.

    In the middle of the park is a little lake with Mediterranean plants and herbs and the a little turtle in the water (photo 4). The aromas in the park can be incredible lush, especially in spring and summer.

    Sometimes they also have little exhibitions of local artists inside, as once in June – garden objects and decoration (see photo 5). It might even have been the end of Art of Eden, an art exhibition. This takes place again in 2014: May 31 and June 1st.

    Opening hours:
    April – Sept.: Monday - Friday: 07:30 - 19:30, Sat: 09:00 – 18:00, Sun: 09:00 – 12:00;
    Oct. – March: Monday - Friday: 07:30 - 16:00, Sat: 09:00 – 16:00, Sun: 09:00 – 12:00;
    The greenhouses are open only on weekdays, from 07:30 - 12:30 and 13:30 15:30.

    Admission fee: none.

    Directions:
    Bus line K from the main train station stops at “Botanischer Garten/Vivarium”.

    Location of Botanical Garden on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Old Theatre – sadly no longer in use

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Hessisches Landesarchiv, beautiful facade
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    Now this would be an appropriate theatre for the city! But sadly it is no longer in use as such. It was built in 1819 by Georg Moller, thus the locals call it Mollerbau (Moller building) and was home to Darmstadt’s theatre until WW II, and with more than 2000 seats one of the biggest theatres in the region. But like so many other buildings it was destroyed during the September 1944 night of heavy bombing end of WW II. Today it houses the state of Hesse’s archive and the foyer is said to be very impressing, renovated in the style of 1870. However, it seems to be open to the public only on weekdays and not on the weekend – quite logical because the state archive is closed on weekends. Maybe I can find some time to visit its interior one day because I heard that they have interesting old documents and maps.

    On the huge space in front of the building tents of circuses and other shows are mounted from time to time.

    Location of Old Theatre on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2007; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Stadtkirche

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Darmstadt, Stadtkirche
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    If this church would be open one day so that I could go inside, I would be willing to write about it. But like with so many churches in Darmstadt, they are closed beyond service times.....

    I will try, nevertheless, now that I have time at hand, to visit it before I will leave the town.

    Location of Stadtkirche on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Prinz Georg Palais: finest porcelain collection

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Prinz Georg Palais - Porzellanschl����chen
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    Inside Prince Georg Rococo Garden a little house is located. It is called Prince Georg Palais and was built by Louis Remy de la Fosse as a summer palace for Landgrave Ernst Ludwig in 1710.

    Since 1899, the palais exhibits the porcelain collection of the Grand Dukes of Hesse and Rhine. It was always a private collection by the Duke's family and comprises unique examples from every step in historical development of court porcelain, bone china and faïence art, since early 18th century. Therefore, almost every stylistic development of porcelain can be seen in the museum. The collection is unique in another sense as well: a large number of objects are on display, which were gifts to the Dukes’ family through their dynastic and diplomatic ties to Russia and England.
    All of the most important porcelain manufactures are represented: Meissen, Frankenthal, Nymphenburg, Ludwigsburg, Vienna, St. Petersburg, Wedgewood and Sèvres. The core of the collection however is of Kelsterbach manufacture, which was founded by Landgrave Ludwig VIII of Hesse-Darmstadt in 1761.

    The collection is on display on the two floors of Prince-Georg-Palais, nicely arranged in the bright rooms. The early years of the collection are dedicated to Rococo and Baroque figurines of music, painting and hunting scenes and scenes of daily life. The later years are more of tableware and vases. Information next to the collection pieces explains the different manufactures history and their changing logos over the years, however in German only.

    Photography is not allowed inside.

    Opening hours: Fridays to Sundays: 10:00 – 17:00; closed from November 4th to March 31st.
    Admission fee: 4,00 € (Kids and holder of Darmstadt Card: 2,50 €); prices as of October 2013.

    Make sure you also visit the little teahouses and aviaries which were once part of the whole ensemble during the dukes’ days.

    Location of Prinz Georg Palais on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Amazingly beautiful Rococo garden

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Prettlack'sches Gartenhaus, detail
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    Prinz Georg Rococo Garden is maybe one of the most unexpected beautiful spots in Darmstadt. I did not trust my eyes when I discovered the little entrance gate (photo 3) on my walk through Herrngarten. The little Prinz-Georg-Garten is said to have been the former herb and vegetable garden of the count’s family in 16th century and, to be precise – it is still herb and vegetable garden. But what a magnificent one. It is laid out geometrically with all kinds of vegetables planted in the different beds, depending on the season. Herbs are growing along the sides. The intersections of the paths are decorated with fountains and sundials. But the most charming fountain is the one shaped like a shamrock, on the way to the very colourful building to the east. This building (photo 1 and 2), called Prettlacksches Gartenhaus, is also quite remarkable. Once it was gardener’s house and now houses a public library. The most interesting aspect of this library is that no one oversees it; it is all based on trust. So in summer the park nice place: grab a good book and recess on one of the benches or in the lovely niche (photo 3 in the background). The building itself is amazing, too. It is painted with royal and gardening symbols in trompe d’oeil technique (detail in photo 1).

    Guided tours are being offered in summer (from mid April to end October, each Sunday at 11 a.m., for a fee of 4 €). And the little nursery is for public use: fresh home grown vegetables can be bought here.

    Location of Prinz Georg Garten on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2007; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Herrngarten – Darmstadt’s large “green lung"

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Herrngarten - ideal place to flee from the city
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    Yes, of course there is Rosenhöhe, the biggest park in town, but Herrngarten is closer to the city centre and thus easier to reach. But it does not have the beauty and charme of Rosenhöhe, because it is a park with mainly large trees and lawns. It was laid out in 16th century and expanded later by Countess Caroline, a friend of Goethe, who visited Darmstadt quite often. A little monument was erected in her honour. It is easily overlooked because it is surrounded by bushes, but you can find it directly behind the Old Theatre (photo 5). There is also a monument in honour to Goethe (photos 3 and 4).

    Herrngarten is quite popular for the locals, especially in summer when everyone sits on the lawns for picnics, reading or sunbathing. But be careful: don’t walk here in evenings; it is a hot spot for “druggies”.

    There is a little restaurant in the park, close to the little lake, where snacks and drinks are being served.

    Directions:
    From Luisenplatz, walk towards the castle and turn left at the end of the shopping galleries. Cross the road and walk across the State Museum until you reach the park.

    Location of Herrngarten on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    St. Ludwig – the most amazing church

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Inside St. Ludwig Church
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    Of all the churches in Darmstadt, St. Ludwig is the one that shall not be missed! It is Darmstadt's main Catholic Church; centrally located with five minutes walk from Luisenplatz, the city’s main square.

    The church was built early 19th century as the first roman-catholic church in Darmstadt after reformation. Which is almost 150 years later and shows how Protestant religion was dominating Darmstadt. Grand duke Ludwig I had it built by his master builder Georg Moller, who took Panthenon in Rome as archetype. In the last days of WW II, most of Darmstadt's historical town was destroyed; also St. Ludwig Church: only the walls remained. But after 1945, it was reconstructed, however, not to the old grandeur. But still: the result is amazing!

    Moller constructed the church according to the divine proportion: 35 metres in height and 43 metres in diametre. The 28 pillars end in Corinthian capitals and are covered with marble. The only light source of the rotunda is a small opening of 8 m at its apex, with the symbols of Trinity (God's eye, Christ's cross and pigeon). The cupola is painted in light blue, which really gives the illusion of an open sky. In contrast, the walls are painted in dark red, in smear technique. The only decorations are 18 stations of the Way of the Cross and a wood carving of Maria in the rear, set into the walls.

    The whole interior is very simple, which adds to the magic feeling being inside; a good place to sit down for a while in serenity and peace.

    Location of St. Ludwig church on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Prinz Emil Garten: another enchanting little park

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Prinz Emil Garten in winter
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    This is another charming little park south of the city centre. The origin of the park dates back to mid 18th century, intended to be another English landscape garden. It is nice in all seasons but does not have the former grandeur and big trees anymore. Also many of the original buildings are lost, except the so-called Prinz-Emil-Palais, today a meeting place for locals.

    In winter the park is nice for kids, especially in the rare winters when Darmstadt has snow. The ground has a slight slope; hence kids come here for sledging. The little pond is nice, too, with a small waterfall and ducks and ducklings.

    Next to the park is a home for elderly. I find this nice, especially since the people living there have the proximity of a nice park.

    Directions:
    Southwest of Darmstadt's city centre. From Luisenplatz walk south until you reach Karlstraße. Turn right into Hermannstr. at “Godot” (the pub at the edge) and you will arrive in the park after 200 m.

    Location of Prinz Emil Garten on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Orangery, symbol of Darmstadt’s former significanc

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Orangery - on a beautiful sunny winter day
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    Once Darmstadt had significance for the state of Hesse: when it was home of dukes and duchesses. These were the days when the orangery was built to house orange trees from Sicily and Sardegna. Luis Rémy de la Fosse built it in early 18th century: the building itself and the adjacent Baroque garden. It is lovely to walk around in the park because the responsible gardeners keep it in a very good shape. Different plants grow here in different seasons, benches invite to stop and do people watching. The big lawns are ideal for kids to play. And in the garden rear is a very cute wooden statue (photo 2), a rocker with a tree and a person. Maybe it should show how fragile the equilibrium can be if man does not care for the nature? I don’t know but will try to find out.

    Nowadays the building is used for concerts (if in winter, bring warm clothes, the heating is not the best; I once attended a concert and forgot additional layers). And there is an upper class restaurant there. I was there once, for an employee Christmas party during but don’t remember what I ate or how it tasted.

    Directions:
    South of Darmstadt's city centre. From the centre, Luisenplatz, walk south until Karlstraße. Turn straight into the tiny on the street left hand side of “Godot” (the pub at the edge) and you will see the entrance gate after 200 m.

    Location of Orangerie on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Bessungen – one of the charming districts

    by Trekki Updated Oct 16, 2013

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    Bessungen, hangman's house (yes, indeed!)
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    No worries - I don’t intend to write about every single quarter of Darmstadt, but Bessungen deserves to be mentioned separately. It is the oldest part of Darmstadt and was mentioned in the annals as far back as 1002. It is located south of the city centre and very charming. The streets are highly contorted and it is easy to get lost here. And unbelievable but true – some farm houses are still located here. Walk around in Bessungen and you will find many old half-timbered houses (photo 1 and 2) as well as turn of the century villas (photos 4 and 5). Or you will see house decorations, giving hint as to who lived here (photo 3: a carpenter).

    Bessungen is a lively part of Darmstadt today with a mixed population of students, young and elderly families. A lot of popular pubs and nice restaurants are located here. It is good to see that some of these are still keep up to their original idea and don’t transform into the trendy-hip places as it is the case with many pubs and restaurants in Darmstadt’s city centre otherwise. As far as I know no chain restaurant or coffee house is located in Bessungen.

    Given Bessungen’s state of being a city quarter it also has its own festivals, which are said to be fun to attend. These are: Bessunger Frühlingserwachen (translates into spring awakening; end of April with long opening hours and live music in pubs), Bessunger Kerb (fun fair in September), the so-called Brunnebittfest (in June, a kind of festival with a religious background but nowadays more a flea and culinary market) and a Christmas Market in December.

    Directions:
    Walk south from the city centre, through Karlstrasse. This street leads into Bessunger Strasse, as the name implies, centre of Bessungen.

    Location of Bessungen on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2007; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Rosenhöhe - the most charming garden

    by Trekki Updated Oct 15, 2013

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    Rosenh��he, Rosendom in late spring
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    Well - what to tell you about this magic place? Room is not enough to describe this magnificent place east of Mathildenhöhe and Artists’ Colony. When I was here first it was on a grey winter day without sun. But my imagination told me how magic it must be here in spring, summer and autumn. I came more often, during all seasons and it proved to be a magic place, throughout any season. Almost every month you can find different plants and flowers growing and blossoming here. However the loveliest season for me is spring: when the apple orchard is in full bloom (photo 3), late spring (when the wisteria are in full bloom) and summer (when the roses are intoxicating the air with their odour).

    Rosenhöhe (translates into something like rose heights) was built early 19th century by Princess Wilhelmine as an English landscape garden, hence many old and party exotic trees can still be found here. In early 20th century, Rosarium (rose garden, photo 1) was added: a separate garden, dedicated to roses of all kind. Today the “rose dome” is the landmark of this beautiful park. The roses are in bloom from May to November.

    But inside the park you can not only find roses. It is an exotic combination of fruit trees (big orchards in the eastern section of the park), redwood trees and other rare species. Scattered within the park are buildings, like a little teahouse, pavilions and a small house where grand duchess Wilhelmine lived in summer. Tucked in a corner and hidden behind large and dense trees is another specific part of the garden: the graveyard of the grand ducal family. Only shortly after his death in October 1937 most of Ernst-Ludwig’s family died in a plane crash in Ostende. They are buried here.

    The park’s main entrance in the west, which connects the park to Mathildenhöhe. It is framed by six brick pillars with lion statues on the top (photo 5), work of Darmstadt's architect Albin Müller and sculptor Bernhard Hoetger, both once part of the Artists’ Colony. But there is another charming entrance to the south (near Darmstadt’s Eastern Train Station) with a beautiful gatehouse (photo 4). This entrance was used by the duke family’s relatives, when they travelled back to their home in Russia.

    On a side note: Rosenhöhe is described in German Wikipedia (=> here). No English version, but a Russian version is available – showing again the significance, Darmstadt once had for Russians.

    Directions:
    Mathildenhöhe is located northeast of Darmstadt’s city centre.
    By car: drive direction Dieburg (which is east of Darmstadt) and follow the brown signs to “Mathildenhöhe”. But be aware that parking up there can be a nightmare.
    By public transport: at Luisenplatz, take bus “F” and exit at Mathildenhöhe.

    Location of Rosenhöhe (rose dome) on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2006; update October 2013: wording only.

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    Artist Colony houses – finest Art Nouveau

    by Trekki Updated Oct 15, 2013

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    Mathildenh��he, Haus Olbrich
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    Any art lover and visitor to Darmstadt should take some time and walk around Mathildenhöhe. In a way it is like an open air museum because still several houses of the former colony have been left undamaged after WW II. Calculate at least one hour to walk around. I recommend to approach Mathildenhöhe from Pützerstrasse and then into Nikolaiweg. This is where one has the best views walking towards the highest point which is the Wedding Tower.

    The famous houses, however, are in Alexandraweg, which runs parallel to Nikolaiweg in the south. Here Haus Behrens is located (photo 2), Großes & Kleines Haus Glückert (a detail of the Kleines Haus Glückert in photo 5), Haus Olbrich (photo1) and Haus Habich.

    Other nice and interesting houses are further westward in Alexandraweg, today mostly home to students’ fraternities.

    Directions:
    Mathildenhöhe is located northeast of Darmstadt’s city centre.
    By car: drive direction Dieburg (which is east of Darmstadt) and follow the brown signs to “Mathildenhöhe”. But be aware that parking up there can be a nightmare.
    By public transport: at Luisenplatz, take bus “F” and exit at Mathildenhöhe.

    Location of Haus Behrens on Google Maps
    Location of Grosses Haus Glückert on Google Maps
    Location of Haus Olbrich on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2007; update October 2013: wording only.

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    The Lily Basin – beautiful when cleaned

    by Trekki Updated Oct 10, 2013

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    The Lily Basin - clean and beautiful
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    In my previous reviews I already mentioned this basin but I have decided to write about it separately and, in addition, upload photos of how it looks like when it is cleaned. Sadly it will be messy and dirty with fallen leaves, broken beer bottles and other trash only weeks after the cleanup. It seems that Mathildenhöhe became a place for nightly drunken orgies from time to time.

    This is why I was very pleased to see that they have indeed managed to clean the basin when I walked around Mathildenhöhe with Christine.j in summer 2007. It looks indeed very magnificent, with bottom tiles in different shades of blue and turquoise, representing Art Nouveau shaped lilies.

    The basin was built on the occasion of the third Art Nouveau Exhibition in 1914, based on the design of Albin Müller.

    Directions:
    Mathildenhöhe is located northeast of Darmstadt’s city centre.
    By car: drive direction Dieburg (which is east of Darmstadt) and follow the brown signs to “Mathildenhöhe”. But be aware that parking up there can be a nightmare.
    By public transport: at Luisenplatz, take bus “F” and exit at Mathildenhöhe.

    Location of Lily Basin on Google Maps

    © Ingrid D., 2007; update October 2013: wording only.

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