Dortmund Things to Do

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The main catholic church of the city is not just a parish church but the central church of a Propstei (church district). From its foundation around 1300 until 1816 it was the abbey church of the Dominicans (Black Brethren, hence the street name "Schwarze-Brüder-Straße"). In the 19th century it then became the catholic parish church for the city.

World War II damaged the church badly. A closer look reveals modern elements that tell of the rebuilding in post-war times, like the shape of the spire. The cloister (photo 3) shows one old and one modern wing. The small square behind the church is surrounded by the modern buildings of the large parish centre.

The church is open in the daytime. It has preserved some medieval art works (see separate tip).

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Petrikirche is the first church you'll encounter if you arrive by public transport because it is located very close to the central station. The gothic church was built in the 14th century.

Unfortunately I could not enter because like the other churches it is closed for a lunch break. If your timing is better than mine, walk in: This church contains a huge woodcarved altarpiece, made in Antwerpen in 1521, that shows the life and passion of Christ in 30 carved scenes and 54 paintings (information from my guidebook). This artwork is described as the largest Flemish altarpiece of the middle ages and surely worth seeing.

Opening hours are given on the website as: Tuesday to Friday 11.00-17.00, Saturday 10.00-16.00. However, I found it closed in the early afternoon with a sign: opens at 15.00.

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Marienkirche contains a precious medieval art treasure: the retable on the main altar. It was painted around 1420 by Conrad von Soest, a famous painter who worked in Westphalia and northern Hassia.

The triptychon is actually a fragment. In the baroque era the medieval retable was taken down and the paintings inserted in a new altarpiece in the then fashionable style. The paintings have been cut to fit into their new framing - see the right foot and knee of the Lord in the middle picture, for example. Anyway, the technique is so elaborate and the paintings are so fine that even as fragments they are invaluable.

The altar was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The three paintings show the birth of Christ (left wing), the Adoration of the three Magi (right wing) and the Death of Mary in the central part. This Lutheran church kept the paintings on their main altar after the reformation.

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Two churches, both protestant, stand side by side in the very heart of the city. The "little sister" of the large Reinoldikirche is Marienkirche, in former times the church of the city council. Seen from the streets they look almost equally sized, the areal view for example on Google Maps reveals how tiny this one actually is. It is the more ancient of the two. The western front with the steeple and the nave, especially the side naves, are still Romanesque with thick and crooked pilars and walls. The gothic choir is a later addition.

In 1833 the church was unused and in danger of being demolished, but by intervention of the Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm IV. it was saved. During Nazi times it became a centre of Bekennende Kirche, the resistance movement within the protestant churches. In 1944 it was hit by a bomb raind and badly damaged, repair works lasted until 1957. Luckily the art treasures had been brought to a safe refuge in time.

This church contains Dortmund's greatest treasure of medieval art, the altarpiece by Conrad von Soest (See separate tip). There is a second medieval altarpiece showing the Passion of Christ (late 14th century, photo 5).

The church is open Tuesday to Friday 10.00-12.00 and 14.00-16.00, Thursday until 18.00, Saturday 10.00-13.00, Sunday for the service. Closed on Mondays.

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Reinoldikirche is the main church of the city. Its tall steeple with the onion-shaped baroque spire is a landmark, visible from many street corners and helpful to find your way. The steeple can be climbed and must offer a great view over the city and its surroundings (I did not go up).

Its history dates back to the early middle ages when a first church was erected for the nearby royal palace (Pfalz); legends even connect it with Charlemagne. The present church has a gothic nave from the 13th century and a higher, late gothic choir that was added during the first half of the 14th century. The large windows received modern stained glass panes after the war in mostly blueish colours that give a special light.

Among the art treasures, the most remarkable are two large statues by the choir: St Reinold the patron saint on the left, Charlemagne (who was considered a saint in the middle ages) on the right. The woodcarved altar dates from around 1420; ist is too far away to see the details as the choir is cordoned off, though.

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Once upon a time Dortmund had a tram network. Public transport through the city centre has long been transferred underground, nowadays there are no more trams but subway trains. In Kampstraße, a stretch of tram tracks has been preserved, and there is a tram standing as if it was waiting for passengers at the end of line.
Don't fall for the trick. This tram will go nowhere. The tracks are blocked after some 50 metres. The entrance to the U-Bahn station was placed in its way.
Since I like trams and appreciate cities that still have them, this forgotten streetcar evokes some nostalgic feelings...

The Hellweg is an ancient trade route that connected Rhine and Weser through the plains just North of the mountain ranges. The medieval Hellweg lead from Duisburg to Paderborn and Corvey and connected to other routes leading further East towards the Elbe. This route was one of the most important "highways" for trade and travel. Along it, towns were founded which then developed into trade centres, imperial cities and proud members of the Hansa. Dortmund is one of these cities.

The Hellweg route is still clearly visible in Dortmund's town plan: the more or less straight street axis in East-Western direction that leads through the middle of the town centre inside the egg-shaped ring of "Wall" streets, the line of the former city ramparts. The name is also still present: Divided into Westenhellweg and Ostenhellweg , it is the pedestrian zone and main shopping street in the city. If you intend to do shopping in Dortmund you will end up here. Between fashion and discounts, devote a thought to history...

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"The Dortmunder U" is a landmark of the city, not far and clearly visible from the station and from passing trains. It used to be the main building of a big and popular local brewery, Dortmunder Union. When the brewery closed down, the building was in danger of being demolished like the rest of the factory, but as it is a landmark it was saved and turned into a cultural centre. It now contains a museum of contemporary art and various artists' workshops, a cafe, and various other instalments around contemporary culture.

The windows at the top have been turned into a supersize goldfish aquarium with moving 'fish' that shine in bright orange. At regular intervals they fade and disappear, and then return.