Places to eat in Land Rheinland-Pfalz

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    Waldhaus Wilhelm: Ultimate culinary Palatinate delights :-)

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    In the hotel section I have already described our delightful stay at Waldhaus Wilhelm and how much I liked the restaurant. It is time now to describe our culinary experience, which definitely exceeded all my expectations and which will bring me back to this hotel many times in the future.
    On our first evening we arrived rather late and decided to eat in Waldhaus Wilhelm’s restaurant. I had a look on their website before we came. The dishes sounded good but from the site I had expected it to be expensive. What a pleasant surprise that this was not the case! On the first evening our decision was very quick: Lucy liked the chantarelles as much as I do and so we had chantarelles in creamy sauce with bread dumplings (14,50 Euro). It was a very much light meal, although this is usually not the case. But later we learned that Waldhaus Wilhelm’s kitchen has found a way to make dishes taste light! On our next evening originally we had planned to have our dinner in one of the many wine taverns on our way back from Dahn Castles and Castle Berwartstein. But it was raining very hard and Lucy suggested that we should go back to the hotel and eat there. Obviously she fell in love with the menu. So did I and we went back. This time we had more time to look through the menu. She liked the chantarelles so much that she decided to have a chantarelle risotto while I wanted to show her how the famous Palatinate dish Saumagen looks like and tastes. So I ordered their Saumagen in creamy sauerkraut and balsamico (10 Euro). Oh my ... what a culinary heaven! The sauerkraut tasted so light in the light creamy sauce, something I would never ever have expected. The same applied for the Saumagen pieces. I can easily say that this was the best Saumagen dish I ever had! We treated ourselves with desert this evening. Lucy had a parfait of rhubarb with minced strawberries in a light sweet-sour dressing (sugar and lime juice) and I had a sorbet of strawberries and lemons with fruit decorations (6 Euro). Oh my, what a perfect finish to an excellent meal. Since I didn’t have to drive, we could sample excellent Riesling wine, 5 Euro for half a litre.

    I cannot repeat it enough: the dishes are heavenly! The staff is very nice and sweet too. All in all I am even convinced that Waldhaus Wilhelm’s cuisine is much better than the famous Deidesheimer Hof (the one where our ex chancellor brought all state visitors to).

    I will be back! Definitely!

    Opening hours:
    from 11:30 to 14:30 and from 17:30 to midnight.
    Kitchen is open from 12:00 - 14:00 and from 18:00 - 21.00.
    Closed on Mondays.

    Location of Waldhaus Wilhelm on Google Maps.

    © Ingrid D., July 2011 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.)

    Our chantarelles in creamy sauce Bread dumplings, for two people Saumagen on sauerkraut and onions, oh heaven! My delightful sorbet ..and Waldhaus Wilhelm restaurant table decoration
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    Wein Zeit and Zollamt: Excellent food at Bingen's Rhein River promenade

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    Those who want to travel through Middle Rhine Valley to see the magnificent castles and enter the boat in Bingen have two very good options for light lunch at the river walk.

    WeinZeit:
    This restaurant is closest by the KD Boat pier. I was here in summer 2014 with a friend from US. The menu has various vegetarian dishes on the menu and also other regional dishes, mostly typical snacks from the region, albeit they looked good when I saw what the waitresses brought to the other tables. We had tagliatelle with rocket pesto and almonds (delicious) and a flaky pastry tart with light cream cheese (Frischkäse in German, which is much lighter than cream cheese) and red bell peppers (delicious). It was way too hot to drink wine, so I had grape juice spritz (mixture of grape juice and water) and my friend had water with freshly squeezed lemon juice. After having finished our meal we took seat in one of the beach chairs to finish our drinks. It was a fabulous feeling.

    Zollamt:
    With my friend from US I was here on our second summer evening in 2014. We shared our dishes: Flammkuchen, or Tarte Flambée, as Wikipedia describes it. It was with sheep cheese, olives, bell pepper and fresh rocket salad (8,50 Euro). Our other dish was the so-called Hildegard of Bingen salad, a selection of lettuce with croutons, cheese and a vinaigrette dressing of mixed herbs (8,90 Euro). Both were very delicious! We also loved the fresh bread we received for our salad and tarte. The one which looks sightly yellowish was with ramsons and corn.

    © Ingrid D., April 2015 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.),

    WeinZeit, flaky pastry tarte with light cream chee WeinZeit, tagliatelle with rocket pesto and almond Zollamt, Hildegard of Bingen salad Zollamt, Flammkuchen
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    Zum Alten Engel: Speyer, heavenly "Slow Food" dining

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    This restaurant is the proof that the best isn’t simply found along the main streets :-). I am grateful to Ian and his partner Rosemarie (Iandsmith) who were staying in Hotel Goldener Engel when they were visiting Speyer early 2008. And when I drove south to meet them and spend some days with them, we wanted to have something to eat close by but their restaurant didn’t have tables available for us. Later, in May 2008 I stayed in Speyer for two days with a young colleague. We’ve booked our rooms in the hotel and made sure that we also book a table at the restaurant early enough. What caught my attention was the Slow Food logo in its window (photo 5), because these days I just came back from Umbria and was completely captured by the Slow Food concept: heavenly dishes with local ingredients.

    So I was anticipating similar delicious experiences and I was not disappointed. To start with: the restaurant is located in an old vaulted cellar (photo 4), with many little niches and an overall cosy atmosphere. It is sparsely decorated and this adds to the atmosphere of a heavenly place.

    Favorite Dish: The dishes: oh my… I must come back one day. I had a season salad with wild herbs, a potato cake and ham as a starter (photo 3), delicious! I tried to identify the wild herbs, and it was even dandelion inside, something I only knew in my childhood and it was good to see that this salad finds its way back onto our tables! My colleague had the liver dumplings with wine sauerkraut (photo 2) as main course and she was very satisfied. I opted for the Boef Stroganoff (main photo) with wild herbs and oh it was so good. Since we had our rooms upstairs and didn't need to drive somewhere, we could sample local red wine – very good! Their wine list is impressive, 26 pages with Palatinate wine, white and red and also wine from Australia, Chile, Spain, France, US and Italy.
    Our bill came to 50 € including espresso for both of us and a big bottle of water. This was not too bad for two persons!

    Update, April 2015:
    I didn't eat there but have looked at their website and especially the dishes: the prices went slightly up but still not too expensive for slow food. Starters are below 13 Euro, main dishes below 20 Euro, various vegetarian dishes too. They still cook according to the slow food principle and have only local suppliers.

    Highly highly recommendable!

    Directions:
    From Altpörtel (the tower and the cathedral in your back) walk into the little street Mühlturmstrasse right hand side across the main street (Bahnhofstrasse). It is on your left after a couple of metres.

    Location of restaurant Alter Engel, Speyer, on Google Maps.

    © Ingrid D., June 2009 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), Update: April 2015: wording

    Zum Alten Engel, boef stroganoff Zum Alten Engel, liver dumplings and sauerkraut Zum Alten Engel, wild herb salad and ham Zum Alten Engel, inside Zum Alten Engel, Slow Food :-)
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    Other typical Palatinate dishes

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    I thought it might be helpful to describe other typical Palatinate dishes, although I don’t have photos of all these at the moment.

    Versoffene Schwestern (translation would be “drunken sisters”) is a delicious dish but only for the ones who don’t have to drive afterwards. It is a clear soup with white wine and sliced pancakes inside. For those who have been in Baden-Württemberg, it is something like the Palatinate version of Flädlesuppe.

    Very typical for autumn, season of potatoes and prunes, is Grumbeeresupp (German = Kartoffelsuppe, potato soup), usually a thick soup, often with herbs or mushrooms or tomatoes. If the soup has a suffix “sauer” (sour), then it contains a little bit of vinegar. This potato soup is often served with Quetschekuche (German: Zwetschgenkuchen, prune cake), see photo of a stall at Speyer’s farmers' market.

    Another typical dish is the so-called Dreckige Grumbeere, (something like dirty potatoes). This is a mixture of liverwurst and black pudding/black sausage, both minced and mixed with onions, then roasted in a pan, and served on potatoes. This dish also made it to Bavaria and I recently had it when I was in Regensburg (hence my photo is from Regensburg).

    Also typical for autumn are Keschde (German = Kastanien, chestnuts) which are served as vegetable and often also as filling to stuff geese or ducks in late autumn.

    The proximity to France’s Alsace is showing again in the dish Bäckerofe. For a detailed description of the French version of Bäckerofe, please see Jean-Louis' Baekaoffe at Kintzheim

    Traditionally, Dampfnudeln (no real translation, even Wikipedia calls it like this in the English version) are served on Fridays, because they don’t contain meat. It is a kind of sweet roll served hot with vanilla sauce or wine sauce.

    As snack in the seasonal wine pubs (Straußwirtschaften) or in the huts in Palatinate Forest along the hiking trails you can eat Weißer Käs (German = Weißer Käse, white cheese, although it has nothing to do with typical cheese), a creamy curd ("Quark") with onions, bell pepper, pepper and chives, served with thick bread and butter. When I was a kid, hiking in the forest with my father, we always had this at the end of our hikes. Oh joy, oh sweet memories. I often prepare it at home.

    © Ingrid D., October 2008 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), update April 2015.

    Grumbeeresumm un Quetschekuche, Speyer :-) Dreckige Grumbeere, the Bavarian version of it
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    Worschtsalat and Lewwerknepp, delicious!

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    These are three additional dishes which are also so typical for Palatinate. Some made their way to other states, especially to Bavaria. Why and how.. this is another story :-)

    Worschtsalat (German = Wurstsalat, sausage salad, photos 1 and 2) is a cold dish of Fleischwurst/Lyoner, a kind of mortadella sausage without lard, cut into thin slices and then served with raw onions, cucumbers, sometimes cheese cubes in a vinegar dressing.

    Lewwerknepp (German = Leberknödel, liver dumplings, photos 4 and 5) with sauerkraut is also very typical, served hot and often in a dark clear or creamy sauce with onions. This dish is also being served in Bavaria, thanks to Charles Theodore, Prince-Elector, Count Palatine and Duke of Bavaria, who has to move to Munich once he was also ruler of Bavaria end of 18th century. His staff, especially the cooks, went with him, so this is why several Palatinate dishes made it to Bavaria :-)

    The version with meat instead of liver is called Fleeschknepp (German = Fleischknödel, meat dumplings, photo 3). These however are served in a creamy sauce with horseradish and taste rather spicy.

    Each of these should cost not more than 7-8 Euro.

    © Ingrid D., October 2008 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), update April 2015: wording

    Worschtsalat, restaurant in Forst (good!) Worschtsalat, restaurant in Worms (not so good!) Fleeschknepp, restaurant in Forst Lewwerknepp, restaurant in Schwetzingen Lewwerknepp, restaurant in Speyer (excellent!)
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    Autumn delights: Federweißer & Zwiebelkuchen

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    Related to Flammkuchen is a dish called "Zwiebelkuchen" or "Zwiwwelkuche" in local dialect. It similar like Flammkuchen, although often thicker and the onions are not raw but fried before added as topping.

    The main season for Zwiebelkuchen is autumn, when it is being served with the new wine. This new wine has nothing to do with (Beaujolais) Primeur, which is no longer fermenting. "Neuer Wein", the new wine, is still fermenting, tastes slightly sweet and is available as red or white new wine.

    The new wine versions in my photos look quite different, but this has to do with the fermenting stage. The ones in the first two photos are higher concentrated and the fermentation has progressed more. We had these on the marvellous terrace of Rheinstein Castle, on a beautiful sunny autumn day. The other photos were taken in Forst, at one of the typical Straußwirtschaften.

    © Ingrid D., October 2008 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), update April 2015: wording

    Neuer Wein at Rheinstein Castle Neuer Wein & Zwiebelkuchen at Rheinstein Castle Neuer Wein in Forst (in a Dubbeglas, BTW) Zwiebelkuchen in Forst
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    Flammkuchen - adopted from France's Alsace

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    The vicinity to France's Alsace and the fact that both regions often belonged together in the course of time brought us Flammkuchen. This is the thin crispy pizza-like "Tarte Flambée" as it is being called in Alsace. It tastes delicious and as you can see from my photos, a variety of different toppings are offered. The classic version is in my first photo: onions, bacon and cream sauce.

    VTer Jean-Louis has visited his Alsace and wrote extensively about the villages. For a detailed description of the French version of Flammkuche, called Flammekueche, please see his Flammekueche at Kintzheim

    © Ingrid D., November 2007 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), update April 2015: wording

    French Tarte Flamb��e Flammkuchen, in Speyer Flammkuchen in Mannheim Flammkuchen, Zwiwwelkuche in Mannheim
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    Saumagen – the very famous Palatinate dish :-)

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    This is very likely the most famous Palatinate dish. Who reads German or tries to translate might be horrified but don't be. Would we eat sausage if it would be called "intestine"?

    So yes, don't try and translate, try and sample Saumagen :-) And you are not alone - legend has it that our former chancellor Helmut Kohl invited almost every statesman to the little Palatinate village of Deidesheim, and served them Saumagen in Deidesheimer Hof. It is more than a legend because Deidesheimer Hof displays many photos of their foreign visitors :-)

    So what is it? It is nothing more than lean pork meat cured or raw, potatoes, pepper, salt, majoram, onions, thyme and other spices. This mass is minced, filled into the sow stomach and is then cooked for a couple of hours. To serve it, it is cut in thick slices and served with sauerkraut mostly. In autumn often also chestnuts are being added. Sometimes it is fried in a pan before serving. (BTW: English Wikipedia, in case you look up the term, is wrong: carrots don't go into the original Saumagen).

    From what I have heard, Hambel, a butcher in Wachenheim, makes the best Saumagen. They also offer one with chantarelles, with feta cheese, green pepper or with green asparagus. Each Friday at 1 p.m. they have a demonstration how to make this famous dish and serve it on a bread roll with sparkling wine afterwards. Highly recommended and I already look forward to my visit there.

    Saumagen is also offered as part of a so-called Pfälzer Dreierlei, Pfälzer Teller or some similar name. Then it has one slice of Saumagen, one liver dumpling and a bratwurst.

    My photos are of various times I ate this dish: my favourite was at Waldhaus Wilhelm (first photo) but also the Saumagen-burger at Deidesheimer Hof during the Christmas Market was very good.

    © Ingrid D., November 2007(So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), Update April 2015: wording

    Saumagen at Waldhaus Wilhelm - the best! Saumagen, with sausage and mustard :-)) Saumagenburger at Deidesheimer Hof :-)
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    Straußwirtschaft – seasonal wine pubs

    by Trekki Updated Apr 25, 2015

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    This is something very specific in Palatinate, and I can only highly recommend looking for these signs in summer. There is no real translation for the word "Straußwirtschaft", and even Strauß has nothing to do with ostrich (in case one looks up the parts of the word) but with a flower bouquet. A flower bouquet was hung at Palatinate houses and courtyards who were ready to serve their home made wine to anyone who came along.

    If you have been travelling in Baden Württemberg, you might know the term "Besenwirtschaft". That is the same principle, only here a broom (Besen) is signalling that wine is served. And in Austria, around Vienna, is is called "Heurige".

    I won’t bore you with German laws that define when rooms can be declared Straußwirtschaft. But it is definitely a seasonal thing, always during the wine season. They serve wine and often one non-alcoholic beverage and some simple dishes. Palatinate has countless of these seasonal wine pubs, often in houses courtyards, which makes it very picturesque settings too.

    Watch out for the signs Straußwirtschaft or often also Weinprobierstuben.
    You won’t be disappointed !

    Typical for autumn are Zwiebelkuchen (onion cake) and Neuer Wein (new wine).

    © Ingrid D., November 2007 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), update April 2015: wording

    This one adopted the broom - This wreath says: I am open and serve wine :-) Strau��wirtschaft in Forst Strau��wirtschaft in Forst Strau��wirtschaft in Forst, welcoming entrance
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    La Bohème: Meals on board

    by toonsarah Updated Jul 15, 2013

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    When we booked this cruise with a French company, Croisi Europe, we were told that the catering on board was one of their strengths, and so it proved to be. Rubbish for dieters though! Every day brought a generous buffet breakfast, a four course lunch and a three course dinner, and the food was almost all excellent.

    Breakfast consisted of fruit juice, tea or coffee, croissants and rolls, various cold meats and cheeses, cereal, fruit, yoghurt and hot dishes such as eggs and bacon. The coffee, croissants and rolls were placed on our table, but all other items had to be fetched from the buffet and it could be a bit of a scrum as there wasn’t a lot of space.

    All other meals were served at the table, and we kept the same table throughout the cruise. This was allocated on the first day, and we were seated with the only other English speakers on board, a very friendly couple from New Zealand. Most of the other passengers were French or Italian so this was a thoughtful arrangement by the crew, and as we all got on well we really enjoyed our meal times. Lunch and dinner were served at set times, notified the evening before when the programme for the day was published. Menus were also published at that time, and we were asked to notify them if there was anything we couldn’t eat.

    Favorite Dish: As I said, the food was consistently good and at times outstanding. Some of my own favourites included:
    ~ the wonderful cheeses offered for the third course each lunch time
    ~ some excellent cod on our first evening, served rather bizarrely with a garnish of uncooked spaghetti
    ~ some great desserts, including a very good tiramisu (which I often find too sweet), a nougat ice cream and a beautifully sharp lemon sorbet

    The price of the cruise included all our meals and the drinks served with them. We could choose from three white and three red wines, and if the bottle wasn’t finished at one meal it would be brought back to our table to be served at the next. This meant that we could have both red (for Chris and me) and white (for the rest of the table) on the go at the same time. It was also possible to have beer, and of course water.

    On my mother in law’s birthday they served her dessert with a huge sparkler and everyone sang “Happy Birthday”, which she loved. It was done in just the right way – making a bit of a fuss of her but not overdoing it and embarrassing her. A lovely touch!

    Nougat ice cream Tiramisu Cod Birthday surprise
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    Hotel and Restaurant Gaul.: Another memorable Palatinate meal.

    by Maryimelda Updated Feb 5, 2013

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    This restaurant is attached to a lovely little hotel in Bad Muenster Am Stein. It has a very relaxed ambience and we sat in a verandah type area which was most pleasant and comfortable. The waitress was extremely efficient and spoke exceptionally good English even though, in this instance I had Ingrid to translate from German to English if it had been necessary.

    Favorite Dish: I had a lovely pasta dish which was very tasty and came accompanied by the best salad I had eaten during my time in Germany. There was something about the dressing which was superb.
    All in all a great dining experience which I highly recommend. The cost was most acceptable as well.
    For more pictures and details please check out Ingrid's (Trekki) Bad Muenster Am Stein page.

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    Zur Weiherschleife: Super Strudel

    by Maryimelda Written Jul 25, 2012

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    Zur Weiherschleife, the cafe, is attached to the historic gemstone mill on the Tiefensteiner Strasse on the way to Idar-Oberstein. The setting is idyllic, lush and green and very peaceful. I could have sat there for hours had it been possible. We couldn't resist a kaffe and kuchen before going to view the gemstone mill. There was a blackboard menu which featured apple strudel, so we had to try it with our latte machiato.

    Favorite Dish: It is not unusual when visiting Germany or Austria to conduct your own personal contest to determine who has the best strudel. Up till I visited Zur Weiherschleife, I judged the best to be at the hotel where I stayed in Fuessen in 2009. Zur Weiherschleife's strudel is every bit as good and perhaps even better.

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    Waldhaus Wilhelm: Excellent food and service

    by Maryimelda Updated Jun 14, 2012

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    This restaurant is part of a pretty little hotel just outside of Maikhamer. There is an excellent choice of different dishes on the menu. The room itself is beautifully presented with crisp tablecloths and very nice plates, cutlery and other tableware.

    My most vivid memory of the hotel was the stunning St Bernard dog who greeted us in the reception area. This magnificent creature belonged to the proprietor.

    Favorite Dish: There is a good selection of salad items to complement your meal available on a buffet table from which you can serve yourself. I chose a wonderful risotto and the accompanying salad and Ingrid chose the Saumagen which she describes at length on:

    http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/p/m/1b37b1/

    All in all an extremely memorable meal which didn't break the bank at all.

    Excellent risotto Freshest of the fresh. Saumagen Waldhaus Wilhelm
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    Vinters Association: Bread & Wine

    by jo104 Updated Apr 4, 2011

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    We stopped at the Vinters Association to purchase a few bottles of wine, a selection of Riesling, Rose & pinot noir. To accompany our wine Win produced some yummy french loafs. What a great experience breaking bread, tasting wine alongside the gorgeus riverbank.

    The wines ranged from about Euro 6 - Euro 15 depending on vintage etc.

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    Huette: huts in the forest

    by tessy Updated Apr 4, 2011

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    There are lots of huts in the forest, where hikers can get simple meals. Usually there is self service. The people leading the huts are usually no commercials. Usually you can sit inside or outside, just depending on the season.

    Favorite Dish: Specialties are soups (pea soup, potato soup), Sauerkraut and Bratwurst or Leberknoedel (dumpling made of liver - yes, yes, I only eat it in the forest, never in town) and excellenthome made cakes. This hut is called Trifelsblick, but it was to foggy to take a pic.

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