Speyer Things to Do

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Our man Jorg had keys for everything. We were in rooms, out of crypts, up and down dizzying staircases. At times I had to remind myself just where I was.
The whole tour took 3 hours. When was the last time you were in a church for three hours and never heard a sermon or an organ? Information was forthcoming at such a rate I only managed to glean a small portion of it. Just as well Trekki's got it covered in her pages!
I was fascinated by the slabs on the stairs with Roman writing. There was no great mystery. The Christians simply used their funary slabs, slightly reshaped, as stairs.
We climbed through the bell tower. I was getting excited. We were going to get to the very top and I would get unique views over Speyer.
Sadly, my hopes were dashed when we came to a sign that said you weren't permitted to go any further due to nesting peregrine falcons. It was one of the few times in my life I wished some wildlife would just go away.
Still, we got to walk in the ceiling and see some of the places few other get to.

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I already mentioned that I like the Cathedral very much also for its impressive open surroundings and the wide plaza on her western side. The plaza had a special meaning during the emperor and episcopal days – it was here, where the Cathedral's immunity started; it was the frontier between the free imperial village of Speyer and the bishop's territory: each of them having their own laws. Consequently, a lot of condemned fled onto the Cathedral ground to be protected.

The Domnapf (Cathedrals’ cup) is dominating the plaza: a huge stone bowl with a capacity of 1580 liters. It was built most probably around 1294, and meant to be the bowl, which was filled with wine for the townsfolk, each time when a new bishop was elected. A brass band is embedded around it with latin words, explaining it’s meaning. Well, anytime the bowl was filled, the townsfolk raced quite vehemently to get their loads of wine – some even fell into the cup and barely escaped to drown – hicks :-)

The cup is still filled with wine, when a new bishop starts in Speyer. Or during other very special occasions, such as benefications or beatifications of people. In October 2006, this bowl was filled with wine again. This time not on the occasion of a bishop election, but…. well, read more in one of the local customs tips. And in March 2008, when the new bishop Dr. Karl-Heinz Wiesemann acceeded, it was also filled.

The bishops' palace, by the way, is just across the plaza, in the south (see photo 5). Beautiful building !

Update August 2011:
The next time the cup is being filled with water is October 2, 2011. This on the occasion of 950 years of Cathedral consecration.

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I was wondering if I should place this as off path, but decided not to do, as I want to show you the magic of Speyer is not necessarily only on the main street, museum or Cathedral. We walk now to the tiny old district of Hasenpfuhl (well, the translation would be rabbit puddle), which was once the district of fishermen and day workers. Even if the houses are of “newer” date now, the streets are still tiny and winding and we can find little plazas which seem to reveal the life in the older days.
We start our walk from the northern side of the Cathedral, and walk direction Sonnengasse (you can’t miss it, there is only one tiny street leading from there). It is also the daily walkway to the Cathedral of philosopher and Carmelite Edith Stein, who lived in St. Magdalenen Monastery just close by.

We pass a house on our left, Gasthaus zum Halbmond (guesthouse half moon, photo 1), which is said to be the oldest half-timbered house in Speyer. It was destroyed during the French invasion in 1689, but rebuilt in 1702 for ferryman Hans Villman and shows coat of arms, anchor and grappling hook on the door (which I learned after my visit, but will have a closer look next time).
The bridge over Nonnenbach (nuns’ creek) is dedicated to St. Nikolaus, patron saint of the fishermen and ferrymen. A rather modern bronze statue of St. Nikolaus was erected here in 1993.

The houses in Hasenpfuhl are very lovely, many of them are half-timbered ones. And it is also here where the very tiny alleys are emitting this “Italian flair” of which Speyer is famous for. Like in photo 4, where grapevine is growing in between the houses and will give a very much shady roof in summer. As you can see, people have their chairs and tables out in front of the houses – they already wait for summer and long evenings with chats and wine outside.

Last but not least I have to say that the oriel of Gasthaus zum Halbmond is at least equally nice as another one in the so famous town of Rothenburg, Feuerleinserker. Moral to that: Rothenburg isn't all of Germany's beauty :-)

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This protestant church is a fine example of late Baroque style, and said to be unique in its regional relevance. Dreifaltigkeitskirche, Trinity Church, was built early 18th century, according to plans of master builder Johann Peter Graber. It was meant to be one of the first new churches to be constructed after the fatal destruction of Speyer during the War of the Great Alliance (when Speyer was left in ashes after that war). All interior construction and furnishing is still from these days.

The interior is magnificent, at least I never saw such a rich and special decoration before. All is made of wood, altar and organ are wonderfully carved (by Christian Dathan), with gold overlays. The ceiling is richly painted with secenes of the Old and New Testament, but I was most fascinated by the two storey gallery, which runs around the whole church’s interior, all mad of wood and richly painted as well (paintings by Johann Christian Gutbier).

Opening hours:
Wednesdays: 10:30 – 16:00, Sundays: 14:00 – 17:00 and during a guided tour organised by the tourist office.
No entrance fee, but it would be nice to leave a donation, as they will start indespensable renovation soon. Thanks :-)

In 2011, every Saturday at 11:00, organ music are given for approx. 30 minutes. The entrance is still free but again it would be nice to leave a donation, because this is meant to collect money for the organ renovation.

The little plaza in front of the church (when you turn off from Maximilianstrasse) is called G’schirrplätzl (crockery plaza), it was the part, where crockeries were sold in the old Speyer days.

Update July 2011:
New website added. And they have a nice feature on their website, a virtual 360° tour

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If you are interested in historical museums, Speyer’s History Museum of the Palatine is a M-U-S-T !.
For me, it was one of the best museums, I ever visited (followed by Mannheim’s Museum for Technics and Regional History), as the staff is very nice, helpful and extremely knowledgeable ! The museum has been recently renovated and all newly added interior is designed to host the Cathedral Treasure and several other permanent or travelling exhibitions. Excellent and intelligent display, just guaranteeing that you immerse in past time and learn to the fullest !

The permanent exhibitions of the museum:

Wine Museum:
Fascinating displays of all about wine, and the history of Palatine as a wine country. Most impressive: the oldest wine of the world, dated back to roman times of 4th century !! For more info, please check my local customs tips.

Early History of Palatine:
Very impressive old artefacts of the 1500 years before Christ, among them the famous Golden Hat of Schifferstadt of 1300 B.C and the bronze wheels of 9th century B.C. For more info, please check my local customs tips

Days of Romans and Franconians:
Artefacts and objects from the days of roman and franconian settling, also some of the so-called treasure findings, robbed objects, which have been dumped into the Rhine (as the legend says about the Nibelungen Treasure). For more info, please check my local customs tips

Cathedral Treasure:
Here, you can see the 3 huge paintings Schraudolph made for the Cathedral, but which have been removed during renovation mid 20th century. But the most impressive part of this exhibition is what was given as grave burial objects to the Salian Kings. Displayed in a very impressive style (behind transparent long white curtains, the objects illuminated and a blue light on the floor) are the burial crowns of Konrad II, Gisela, Heinrich III and Heinrich IV, as well as some parts of the cloth and hair of Gisela.
In the lower basement, you’ll see the religious objects which have accumulated during the Cathedral’s existence, and some of which are still used today. For more info, please check my special album

Opening hours: Tue - Sun, 10 - 18;
Entrance fee:
Permanent exhibitions: 4 €, kids & groups 3 €, (permanent exhibition),
Special exhibitions : 8 - 10 €, kids and groups 6-7 €, (depending on the exhibition)
Combination ticket (permanent and special exhibition): 12 €, kids & groups 9 €.
Reduced tickets for:
kids, groups, retired, handicapped and students (make sure to bring your IDs).

The museum is barrier-free and included in the Oberrheinischem Museumspaß.

Have a look at the excellent video about Historical Museum oft he Palatinate (in English)! I can't give the full link since it would destroy VTML coding. Once you have clicked the link, look for the video on the right hand side.

A great regional museum for several reasons. Firstly, it is in a region which has been inhabited by Celts, Romans and so on and is therefore very interesting from a general European aspect. One of the treasures here include the Golden Hat of Schifferstadt, a huge golden piece of headgear found in the neighbouring small town with the same name some years ago and from 1300 B.C or so! Secondly, in this region there is a lot of vineyards so wine production is part of the exhibitions :) Finally, this is also where you find the Domschatzkammer, i.e. the Treasury of the cathedral, with the "Empirical jewels", including Conrad II's crown, and burial gifts of all the Salian emperors and emperesses. Part of the museum is also set aside for the JuMus, or Childrens' Museum of Speyer with temporary exhibitions on everything from Romans to Playmobils. The building itself is from 1910 and very nice. As most museums it is closed Mondays.

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As mentioned before, History Museum of the Palatine hosts always special exhibitions.

This is simply to describe the ones, which are still running, separately.

Heinrich IV: - has been transferred to the permanent exhibition by now
Excellent exhibition about life and fate of Salian King Heinrich IV, who had the dispute with the church over the rights of church versus king. He was the one who went to Canossa to make peace with the pope Gregor, who had banned him.
Very exciting also a reconstruction of his head with modern techniques - that's what the display means (see picture).

The Vikings: - December 14, 2008 to July 12, 2009

Idols: - May 17, 2009 to January 17, 2010

Witches: - September 13, 2009 to April 2010

There is another exhibition announced on the museum's website, but it seems that it will turn into a permanent one. It is called regicides and is part of the Cathedral Treausre (most probably on the same floor as the story of the Salian kings is told). The exhibition is covering the murders of King Albrecht of Austria (May 1, 1308) and King Philipp of Swabia (June 21, 1208), both are buried in the Cathedral.

Opening hours: Tue - Sun: 10 - 18
Admission Fee: 8 - 10 Euro (for the special exhibitions) or 12 € for a combination ticket with entry to the permanent exhibitions as well. Full details please see my previous tip.

Update February 10, 2009:
I've removed old exhibitions.

A visit to Speyer's Christmas market is recommended if you are visiting at the end of the year. Situated on picturesque Maximilianstrasse in the shadow of the cathedral, there are a small number of stalls selling the usual seasonal favourites. A mug of mulled wine is a great antidote against the cold!