This walk, described in a brochure takes you along 12 examples of Jugendstil architecture in Traben-Trarbach. The walk took us about 3.5 hrs. I just returned to my hotelroom at Hotel Bellevue here in Traben-Trarbach, and still have to think where to put up all the photo's and explanations.
The brochure is free for guests of Hotel Bellevue. Otherwise you can buy it for 2.50 Euro at the Tourist Office (see address below).
In this tip are 4 more photo's with some Jugendstil highlights. I'll elaborate more on them in next tips.
Winetasting is the thing to do along the river Mosel. In every town there are winetasting possibilities (Weinprobe) about every 25 metres or so. Really, that many!
We went to Emil Franz, a winemaker (Winzer) in Traben-Trarbach. It was included in our arrangement with the hotel. This young winegrower, of 3rd generation, clearly had fun in showing us around the business and explaining everything during a tasting session of 6 wines. Read about it in the Shopping Tip.
In any case, it's a good thing to prepare yourself a bit at home. Read about the differences between Hochgewachs, Kabinett, Spatlese, etc. And the most popular or best winehouses in the area. After the excess wine production in Europe, Germany decided to turn the problem into an assett. Wineproduction was limited to 10.000 litre per ha. That means quality wine, not quantity.
On the Trarbach side is the Mittelmosel Museum in a baroque villa, once owned by the merchant family Böcking. German writer Goethe, French poet Apollinaire and the Prussian king Friedrich-Wilhelm IV were once guests here.
Nur der verdient sich Freiheit wie das Leben, der täglich sie erobern muss wrote Goethe in Faust, while he had a wild night at this villa in November 1792.
This museum now shows art and objects from 300 years of history in 20 rooms. But it also houses a large collection of old images of Traben-Trarbach and findings of the age of the Romans and Franks. It also has quite a famous maquette of Grevenstuck that was once a castle but now a ruin. There is also information about the excavations of Mont Royal where the French held the region under control in the 17th century.
Museum open until Nov. 1, every day 10-17 hrs. Monday closed. The link below leads to a PDF file (1.24 MB).
Overlooking Traben-Trarbach is the remnants of a castle, Schloss Grevenburg. It stood proudly for centuries until Napoleon came through and decided it was a threat to his army. As a result, he ordered the castle destroyed.
You can go up and visit the ruins if you wish. There are a number of trails and steps from Trarbach which will take you to the castle. Follow the signs to "Ruine Grevenburg." At the site, you can stroll around what's left of the structure and gaze down at the river below. There's also a beer stand nearby serving refreshing Bitburger Pils during the summer months.
While it's a very long drive (about 35 km or 21 miles) along the river from Traben-Trarbach to Bernkastel-Kues, you can hike there by going over the hill in a quick (if steep) 5km (3 miles). One of my favorite activities was to walk to Bernkastel and then take the boat back to Traben-Trarbach. You start on the Trarbach side, in the village of Bad Wildstein. Continue up the footpath marked "fussweg nach Bernkastel." You'll walk uphill along some pleasant greenery and disused vineyards. At the top, you'll come to crossroads of sorts as you cross a dirt road connecting the villages of Wolf and Langkamp. (I remember driving this road many years ago during a flood that rendered the main roads impassable. I picked up two colleagues in Wolf and drove them in my Suzuki Sidekick to Bitburg. But I digress... ;)
As you continue downhill, you get an excellent panorama of vineyards and hills as you approach Bernkastel-Kues. About halfway down, there is a restaurant with outdoor seating and tremendous views (the Eiserne Weinkarte).
The most distinctive construction in town is the ornate bridge crossing the Mosel River. It should be noted that the bridge you see is a replica. The original bridge was destroyed by the Nazis at the end of World War II. My landlord told me the story of how one of the local vintners tried to ply the Wehrmacht Lieutenant in charge with plentiful wine so he would not destroy the bridge. Unfortunately, an SS Captain came along and ensured the job got done.
You'll note that you can actually enter the bridge structure on the Trarbach side. Inside, there is a cafe (the Brückenshenke), where you can get coffee, cake, and light meals with a view of the Mosel.
Brückentor is the widely popular and famous symbol of Traben-Trarbach. Though its architecture is unique, it was only built in 1899, making it a modern attraction, compared to many other buildings in town. As the name implies, and the photo suggests, the building was constructed at the end of the large bridge across the Mosel in the form of an arched gate -- with traffic driving through the opening. The tower houses a wine room and a small art gallery.
I always heard about, but never tried this... Apparently, if you know someone who owns a vineyard, you can help harvest grapes in return for a share of the resulting wine. I'm sure picking grapes on the steep slopes of the Mosel is extremely hard work, but a sweet sip of the local belly wash is enough to make all of your hard work worth while!
The towns were prospering on wine and attracted more and more visitors. This is how the Claus Feist hotel was built. Unfortunately, it was burned completely, but was rebuilt by the famous architect Bruno Möhring. Today it's known as Bellevue hotel. Soon after giving the new look to the famous hotel, Bruno Möhring was hired by the rich merchnats of Traben-Trarbach to build their houses in the same Modern Art style.
I never got the chance to stay in this hotel because it was fullybooked on the night we were looking for accommodation . I did take a peak inside though. Very impressive from inside with its, of course, Art Nouveau interior. And they do have the most beautiful balconies with the view on the river. Oh well...next time...
This is just one of many Art Nouveau buildings you'll find in town. The most remarkable (in my opinion) is Brueckenschaenke that has many purposes: it's a city gate, it has a restaurant, as well as a small gallery. Brueckenschaenke is attached to the bridge that connects Traben and Trarbach. It was built because both villages became very famous for their wine and many people were coming to taste it. Since the only train station was on the Traben side a bridge was added.
The whole city was "affected" by the "Jugendstil" or Modern Art and many building of this style can be found in Traben-Trarbach.
Grevenburg castle was built around 1350 AD. According to the Traben-Trarbach website, during the European Wars from 1620-1734, the castle changed hands 13 times and was destroyed 6 times! No wonder it's in such bad shape today.
To get to the castle, follow the walking path through the vineyards and up the steep stone stairs. There are at least two places to find the trail... One is from behind the castle on the opposite side of the hill from the River off Schottstrasse. The other is at the base of the hill near the river at the Warrior Monument.
There is a small cafe at the top of the hill with coffee and snacks.
On arrival at Traben-Trarbach, we needed to cross the River.
Well, it was a wow! moment when I saw the Bruckentor Gate we had to pass through to enter the Bridge and cross the River.
It was one of the nicest Gates I had seen. Completed in 1899, it is the landmark of the City, along with the Art Nouveau Bridge by Berlin architect Bruno Mohring, who won an Architecture competition on design for the new Bridge.
The Bridge was constructed, as on the north side was "Traben,' and on the south was "Trarbach." The communities of Traben and Trarbach were independent until 1904 when they become known as one!
The two Town's then had to be connected, and this is when the Bridge was built.
I went for a walk and had a good look at the Bruckentor, and found quite a few interesting sculpture's, so I hope you can have a look too!
The beautiful villa on the river bank was designed by Bruno Möhring in 1905. The architect combines Jugendstil, neo-classicism and oriental elements.
This is just one among quite a number of art nouveau/Jugendstil buildíngs in Traben-Trarbach. Anyone interested in that style will find a lot to discover here.
The Lorettahaus was the beautiful Art Nouveau building next to the Imperial Post Office.
Built between 1906 & 1908, it was local sculpturer Bernhard Wendish who made this building so beautiful and interesting!
Located in the bottom are shop's, and above the shop window's are sculpture's of different people. The Bottom look's to be made out of stone, and the very top is a half-timbered addition.
An amazing building that I liked having a look around!
The Info centre is located in the Old Train Station which is known in German as the "Alter Bahnhof." Built in 1904, it features a facade typical of the area.
It is a rather nice looking old building with a clock and a painting of a Horse. Out the front, is a sculpture of a Woman and a Grape vine with plenty of Grape's.
This is also where tour's leave from and the Bus Station is located.