Neustadt, Dresden

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This church was built by famous architect Pöppelmann (Zwinger) in Baroque style 1732-39. The interior was redone according to plans of George Bähr (Frauenkirche) In Feb 1945 it burnt out completely and was restored in 1994. It has been home for the first Saxon Parliament for a couple of years after the wall came down.

A must see is the "Dresdner Totentanz" (death dance), an embossment made by Christoph Walter I. 1534-35. Have a look at the Baroque altar (1738) as well. Finally you should go up on the tower to enjoy the panoramic views of the city. A word of advice: For best pictures of the old town's shilhouette - right in the south - go up early or late, or in June when the sun is high above horizon at noon.

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On the right bank of the Elbe river, confined by the train station Neustadt, Albertplatz and Glacisstraße, is the Baroque district located called "Inner Neustadt". This area gives you an idea of the beauty of Dresden before the bombardement in 1945.

Many Baroque townhouses and a few palaces are preserved and were beautifully restored. Stroll along the narrow cobbled streets (Rähnitzgasse!) or walk along the boulevards (Königstrasse, Hauptstrasse). Don't miss the passages and gardens between Hauptstraße and Königsstraße. Enjoy a lunch, coffee or do some shopping. Don't forget to see the Museum on the Romantic era (Kügelgenhaus - Hauptstrasse). Or see a performance at the Societaetstheater (the oldest theatre building in Dresden, 1740). And don't miss the Dreikönigskirche (church of the Three Holy Kings).

The area is also pretty good for shopping away from the usual big chains. Artisans, craftsmen, tailors, jewellers have small shops here, mostly selling fancier stuff. You also find a number of galleries and antique shops.

When in Neustadt you cannot miss the yellow Kügelgenhaus. This haus was constructed on order of count Zinzendorf from 1765 through 1770 in Rokoko style.
At the upper floor in big golden wording one can read: "An Gottes Segen ist alles gelegen", what gave this house the nickname of "Gottessegenhaus".

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In 1997 some Neustadt buildings that were on the list of local monuments had to be restored. The buildings themselves were easy to reconstruct, but to redo the courtyards was another thing.

Five courtyards were being transformed by local artists into the courtyards of Mythology, Light, Metamorpheses, Elements and Animals.

In the Passage are 15 shops and workshops, a restaurant and a bar.

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The baroque Dreikönigskirche (Church of the three Magi) in Hauptstraße was planned by Matthäus Daniel Pöppelmann and George Bähr - the architects of Zwinger and Frauenkirche - and erected in 1732-1739. It substituted the older parish church of the Inner Neustadt, which had been located in Neustädter Markt. The neobaroque steeple was added in the 1850s.

The church was heavily damaged by World War II bombings in 1945. Its outward appearance was restored till 1990. The interior was divided, the back half serves as church, the front half was turned into a parish centre and offices of the church administration. As Haus der Kirche (House of the Church) it is used for meetings, conferences, concerts and exhibitions.

The damaged altar has not been reconstructed, it stays just like after the bombing. The remaining fragment tells its story of war and destruction.

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The backyards of the houses next to Dreikönigskirche have been turned into a little green oasis. They are a reconstruction of how the gardens of the wealthy citizens who once inhabited the baroque houses in the main street of Neustadt may have looked like. Benches invite to sit down and rest. I particularly loved the quince garden with the baroque pavillon.

You reach the gardens if you walk through Kunsthandwerkerpassagen from Hauptstraße (see previous tip).

Part of the complex is the Societaets-Theater with a cafe terrace which may be open in summer - it wasn't when I passed.

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The doorways of three restored baroque houses in Hauptstraße open to the so-called Kunsthandwerkerpassagen, Artisans' Passages. The passages and little courtyards contain small arts and crafts shops and galleries. Even if you have no intention to go shopping, these cute shops deserve a look, like the one in the photo that sells china and old-style linen.

August the Strong, Elector of Saxony and King of Poland, planned the Neustadt on the right Elbe bank as his new residential town. The new quarter was built on a regular, geometric ground plan. In the central axis of Augustusbrücke and Hauptstraße a gilded statue of August on horseback was erected in 1736 - usually known as Goldener Reiter, the Golden Rider.

Photography hint: The gleaming gold is hard to catch in bright sunlight due to reflections. You'll get the best results when the sky is slightly overcast.