Lake Kournas, Crete Island

A fresh water lake in the hills above the resort of Yeoryeopouli.

The first time I came here (20 years back) we walked from the resort of Yeoryeopouli - allow an hour - and it was getting dark when we arrived. It was early in the season and only one taverna was open: they were cooking loukanika (smoked sausages) over eucalyptas wood. The smell was divine. I think we were the only people eating at a small terrace lapped by the waters of the lake.

Nowadays it is a lot more touristy - as is this whole area. There are still some pleasent tavernas right by the lake; coach parties turn up all the time , however, and it can get very busy.

If you are lucky you'll be able to sit in peace and contemplate the lake, if not you can always go in for 'people watching' and 'duck watching' - wildfowl scrabbling for bread crumbs are an attraction here.

I'm not sure if the little taverna is still going - it probably isand has probably just got unrecognisably bigger: lost amongst all the newer tavernas. Look for the places where the greek families are sitting.

You can hire pedaloes at the lake - 20 years ago I had a most undignified experience on one (and they are undignified things anyway) when a duck decided to attack me 'cos I pedalled too close to its nest.

Beware extremely tacky souvener shops - why , in this part of the world, a shop should do such big business selling particularly taseless ceramic images of stoned rastafarians, is a mystery.

The village of Kournas is 4 k up hill from the lake. A pretty place with an exceptionally good taverna ' Kali Kardia' .

If you decide you can't walk to the lake from Yeoryeopouli, and if you haven't got a car, a tourist train that will take you. Just make sure you don't get a pedalo at the other end (or buy a bong-smoking rasta figurine) or the embarrassment factor will be huge!

It is the biggest lake on the island. The view from the mountains is magnificent. The visitors can enjoy a ride on the sea bikes. There are a few tavernas and rooms to let. Peaceful and worthwhile a visit.

Hire a bike or if you don't mind crowds go on the little train from Yioryoupolis, but make sure that you visit Lake Kournas. There are a couple of very cool bars set above the lake where you can sit for an hour or two and drink in the view. The colours of the lake need to be seen to be believed - please visit, you won't regret it!

It's a nice quite place around lake where you can swim or rent pedal boat. There are some restourants.