Compact, relatively traffic free, magnificent cliffs
Poor beaches, lack of independent accommodation
Definitely a "Find" in 1982
Once a week in high season there is a greek dancing night at Manadendri beach taverna. Costas provides complimentary bus travel from Bastas apartments - just book a slot with him. The food at the taverna is ok - I had vegetable pasta that did taste a little like a veg cuppa soup - but it did make a change from the bog standard neopolitana. The...more
You can catch the local bus and go to Gaios for 5 euros return. be warned though Gaios is really tiny. You can walk around the shops in an hour. There are gift shops and food shops - a large co-op so it's a goof place to stock up if you're self catering. There is a little beach there but probably the best thing to do is sit in a harbour cafe and...more
For a quieter beach than Harami - take a walk over the top of Lakka to Orkos beach - there are a couple of signposted paths (see travalogue). it's about a 30 minute stroll. The beach is fronted by the Juventos round houses -which are usually empty. When we arrived about 10 in the morning we were the first people on the beach. heaven.There are no...more
Costas runs a complimentary minibus to this beach every day at 11am from Bastas apartments returning at 5pm. His family own a teverna on this beach with a large salt water swimming pool. There are sun loungers - canoes and pedalos and all free for customers - even if you are only buying a drink. The frappes are great and if you are hungry the...more
Paxos is a really popular destination with walkers - I even found a website recommending the island for naturist walkers - apparently you can walk naked for miles without seeing another person. We didn't come across any nude walkers - although I suspect a bit of skinny dipping was happening off Plani Beach. If your that way inclined the website is...more
There are often flotillas of 10-12 hired yachts sailing together under the leadership of an admiral boat. All the boats are alike, of the same brand, like on this photo. When you see a flotilla sailing along, you have better rush and reach the harbor before them, otherwise, they will take the best moorings. Fortunately, many of these occasional...more
This is quite a large Italian restaurant around the far side of Lakka bay - past the old school house and the internet cafe. It's not always open so don't bank on it.we shared pizzas which were satisfactory but a little bland. The four cheese pasta was good and the bruchetta was fine The four cheese pastamore
Lovely little restaurant right on the harbour waterfront. There is some covered seating which you need if it gets windy. The staff here are lovely and appreciate return visits wiith free drinks etc. Serves lots of pasta dishes - quite a few veggie choicesThe vegetarian anti pasta was yumServed a lovely italian liqour at the end of the meal - can't...more
Romantica is a bar is situated right on the harbour front. It's a lovely bar with lovely service. If you go early in the evening you get complimentary metze with you drinks including cheese, cucumber, salami, olives and on occasion dips with breadsticks. If you pop in after dinner you get some yummy spicy crisps. The music playing is really good...more
I don't remember there being any trendy bars, as such, way back in 1982. Maybe we just avoided them. The best thing to do was go out for a pre-dinner drink or two or three at any of the tavernas and then have a long, leisurely meal at a different establishment with some more drinks!Just watch the world go by, locals and tourists alike and watch the...more
Don't go to Paxos if you're looking for exciting nightlife and partying. There are a couple of clubs in Gaios, but apart from that most people prefer to spend their evenings enjoying a leisurely meal in one of the tavernas, followed by a drink or several at a bar overlooking the harbours or in the town squares and just watching the world go by....more
It isn't unusual for the flying dolphins to stop. On our first trip to Paxos in July 2008 we had to leave in a mad rush when the rep rounded us all up - the flying dolphin was stopped and we had to get back to Corfu on a ferry from loggos.We made the best of it and enjoyed the ferry ride much more that the closed in flying dolphin. A local band was...more
Hire a small motor boat and escape the crowds. Apparently you can find your own deserted beach - you can also take the boat over the anti-paxos if the sea isn't too rough. You get magnificant views of the island cliffs and dramatic landscape together with a chance to see the blue cave - the water is blue not the cave walls. (see my travelogue for...more
This service started up in November last year (2004) and is currently only operating between Corfu, Paxos and Ioannina but there are plans to run scheduled flights all over the Ionians and to Brindisi and Patras next summer. The current service cuts the travel time between Corfu and Paxos from an hour on the dolphin to 14 minutes by seaplane. It's...more
Sophisticated shopping malls full of the latest fashions and designer gear are nowhere to be found on Paxos. However, what you will find are lots of shops selling souvenirs, which range from the tacky "I love Paxos"-type stuff to beautiful pottery, hand-made jewellery, carved olive wood and other olive-based products. Gaios is particularly good for these arty-crafty shops and also has several good jewellers selling typically Greek styles of gold jewellery - I think the Greeks must have invented bling!
If your idea of a supermarket is a huge shop, the size of a warehouse, with endless straight aisles and umpteen check-outs, you're in for a shock on Paxos. Every little corner grocery shop describes itself as a supermarket. What you'll usually find is a colourful display of fruit and veg outside, spilling out onto the road and a hotch-potch jumble of shelves and display units inside. Don't miss the deli counters with their range of delicious cheeses, cooked meats and olives.
An early morning visit to the local baker's shop is a must too, if only for the mouth-watering smell of freshly-baked bread. They also sell excellent cheese pies, pizza slices and cakes. Great places to go if you're looking for a picnic lunch.
What to buy: Hand-made silver jewellery, gold bling, olive-woodcarvings, olive oil, goatsmilk cheeses, fresh bakery products.
What to pay: Since almost everything has to be shipped onto the island, prices may seem a little higher than you might expect. But if you can afford it, don't miss out on something you really like just for the sake of a few euros - you may never see another one like it.
There are lots of children living in Lakka, Most of the boys gather to play football near the church when the sun starts going down. A couple of enterprising young boys were selling pebbles and shells on the harbour front at night in little bags - the prices tended to be variable.more
Dogs are nowhere near as prolific on Paxos as the cats and all the ones I've come across seem well cared for and friendly. The most danger they seem to pose is slobbering all over you! However, the well-behaved ones are often left free to wander around and it's worth being alert to this if you have small children who are unused to dogs.more
Because Paxos is so rural and covered in olive and cypress trees, the wildlife there is abundant. Some of this you'll probably never see, like the elusive skops owls, whose eerie calls you may hear without even realising it every evening. However, if you're staying outside the main villages, it is likely that you'll come across the occasional rat...more
Miscellaneous: If you stay outside the village centres, don't forget to pack a torch. Even the "main" roads are badly lit at night and to reach your accommodation, you may find yourself having to stumble along narrow winding goat tracks, which are very picturesque in the daytime, but no so easy to negotiate in complete darkness. Not good after a few ouzos or metaxas!
There are hundreds of little tracks through the olive groves of Paxos and walking them will get you away from the main villages and give you a glimpse of Paxiot life.The island has so much natural shade from the olive and cypress trees that, even in July and August, the walking isn't too difficult. Just remember to take water and a map. For ideas...more
The main photo shows Loggos mill by night, when it is spotlit and dominates the Loggos harbourfront.The second photo is a view from the mill looking northwards towards Corfu. If you follow the path north from the mill, you eventually reach a small church with a very impressive graveyard, which I didn't feel it would be quite right to photograph,...more
The snorkelling on Paxos is probably the best I've found in Greece. I think the main reasons for this are the rocky coves, which make interesting hidey holes for lots of different sea creatures and the pebbly beaches, which mean that the water is crystal clear most of the time.
As well as thousands of fish, in all shapes, sizes and colours (well ok, it's not exactly tropical waters) there are bright red and orange starfish, octopus, squid, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, sea snakes and fantastic underwater plants and rock formations.
My favourites though, are the tiny little fishes with electric blue neon stripes down their middles that dart around in enormous shoals and, no matter how hard you try, always seem to be just a little bit quicker than you - so far anyway!
Equipment: If you go in May, the sea's still quite cold and a wetsuit may come in handy. If you've never snorkelled before and don't have any gear, masks and fins are widely available on the island. Gaios has the best dive shops, but you can get the basics in both Loggos and Lakka.
Along the west coast cliffs are many sea caves - some of the sailing boats will actually enter these caves too. a large one is called the Blue Cave as the turquoise water reflects onto the rock. Empty little sandy coves, only accessible by boat are also seen. The largest of these caves hid Allied submarines during the second world war.more