Yialova Off The Beaten Path

June 2009
I bet every body goes here
Not much at the dig
The museum is in Hore (Ghore) you need to combine the both visit the site then find the museum in Ghore. It takes a bit of finding but it is well worth it.
Again like all places it closes at 3pm
2 euro to get in the museum
3 Euro to get in the Nestor Place

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Methont Castle
11km from Pylos
Nice afternoon to visit one of the three castles protecting the headland.
Free to get in
Open until 3pm as most monuments are.
Nice church in the Castle to visit and spend a few moments in reflection
Easy car parking in front of the castle
2 minutes walk to the main square for a drink

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1.5 kms north of Gialova there is a right turn to Iklena and Eleofito. It is also signposted to various apartments, including Paleokastro. This road twists and turns it's way up to the suprisingly strung out settlement of Iklena but really, it's worth taking this route for the views back over the Divari Lagoon. They are really quite special and you get the true picture of the overall size of the lagoon. We made this journey a couple of times, the first we drove through Iklena and on to Kremidia, another very strung out village and the second time turned left at Iklena to eventually come out on the Chora road.

Naturally, as with so many photos taken in Greece, the telegraph wires are a feature!!!

On our final day, enroute to the airport, we had a thought we would have a look at the beaches around Rizomilos and Analipsi. We found Rizomilos beach, the first part of which was quite nice, sandy, with views to Petalidi. The further along you travelled, the stonier, narrower and wilder the beach became.

Next stop was Analipsi with the idea of viewing the beach there but realised after passing through the village, it was a bit of a long way and we didn't have time if we wanted a final drink before the airport. We about turned and stopped in the small, noisy village of Analipsi for our very last Amstel of the year. There appeared to be two establishments, one a shop with chairs outside and the kafeneon we chose where a few old boys were sitting in the shade. We were made to feel very welcome and one old boy asked where we were from and wished us kalo taxidi when we left.

This village was unbelievably noisy, motorbikes, cars and tractors seemed to be doing the village circuit every few minutes. It was almost as if we were putting on a show fo them; come and see the tourists. Across the road chickens scratched about outside an old property and occassionally strutted across the road while a sleeping dog lay oblivious to everything.

I was expecting to pay over the odds for the drinks, being in the Kalamata stockbroker belt. Some of the properties were incredibly enormous, elaborately ornate with huge gardens. Amazingly, when we paid the bill, two beers and a coke were the huge sum of €3.70. That's the unpredictability of Greece for you!!!!Unbelievable!!

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I'm not actually sure whether this is Vromoneri or Ag. Sotira. Wherever, it is a picturesque little cove with a few boats bobbing about. A few buildings are scattered about on the headland above the beach but I couldn't see how you would get to them. The road ended on the beach or in a parking area above with steps leading down to the cove. Steps also led up the other side of the cove to possibly a taverna or more houses.

This place is at the far end of Romanos beach, separated from it by a narrow headland. It is very sheltered compared with the more exposed beaches along here. The swimming was not brilliant as it was quite stony underfoot but it was so hot we had to have a dip.

We enjoyed our lunchtime picnic sat on the wall here. We had the entire place to ourselves.

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We had been made aware of this outing by an Englishman living in the Peloponnese who told us it was well worth a visit. Off we trundled.

From the main Kalmata/Pylos road, near Kazarma, there is a blue sign advertising the waterfalls. Follow this road through the village of Haravgi and then lose the signs!! Somehow, we managed to find our way. Much of the road is dirt track, so not advisable in the rain.

At the top of the walk is a coach park. If the road is dry, ignore this and turn down the steep concrete and grit road. At the bottom is a small parking area and a pagoda. There is also a drinking fountain.Follow the steps down (they get your knees as they are a pecular size tread) and you come to the river walk. It's not an overly long walk, just a bit of a scramble in places in beach shoes. The gorge is deliciously lush and green, butterflies and dragonflies flitting around you. You pass small, deep pools and gushing waterfalls, opaque green in colour, owing to the minerals in the water. This is the only place I have seen fresh water crabs, I didn't know they existed. Before long, you come to the largest fall, dropping into a large, deep pool where it's possible to swim if you are brave enough. The path then ascends up a cliff face which we decided was too dangerous for us before I noticed a sign saying the path was closed. I think there is a larger lake at the top which I also seem to think you can access from another walk, from the top. We didn't have time to explore this possibility.

A word of warning: when you leave make sure you don't back into the car behind you like Nick did!!He was so focused on not hitting the bin on his left, he never saw the car!!! Fortunately there were no marks on either car. It is a very steep hill start and a little tricky if someone parks behind you. Once you get started, just keep going, never mind the pot holes!!

Yes, a definite must see. Thanks, John.

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Follow the road from Mavromati, passed the museum and you will come to the Arcadian Gate and some of the best preserved parts of the 9 kilometre Messenean wall. This was built to protect the city and the ancient route to Megalopolis. What amazed us is that today's modern route to Meligalas and Zerbsia runs straight through this ancient gateway. How many times do locals travel this route, sparing a thought for why it is there?

The gate is quite a spectacle, a huge circular opening with one of it's massive lintel's lying at the angle it fell, who knows how long ago?

The wall is built from enormous slabs of limestone, quarried from the slopes of nearby Mount Ithome. Thirty forts guarded the wall at strategic points and one or two can still be seen. You think Hadrian's Wall (England) is impressive, well think again. This wall far surpasses Hadrian's and again, work is still being carried out here. Who knows what else will be uncovered?

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We felt we owed Ancient Messene a re-visit, as excavations are still ongoing.

Our original plan was to set off reasonably early in the day, before it became too hot but in the end, we made this trip one cool, wet afternoon. It's about an hour and forty minutes drive from Gialova which we did in torrential rain. Roads were flooded and visibility poor but strangely, when we reached Mavromati, where Ancient Messene is, it wasn't raining, nor did it look as though it had done much. Just goes to show, as this place is in the mountains, the weather is very unpredictable.

From the village of Maromati, there is a car park looking out over the site but it was so misty, it wasn't worth lingering here so we continued to the site, the steep access road by the museum now surfaced since our last visit.

It's free entry, amazing ,as it's a vast site, with loads to see and more being uncovered annually.Work is ongoing.

In 371BC, the Messinians, after being freed from the Spartans after 350 years of their ruling,decided to act swiftly. They built 9 kilometres of massive fortified wall and the new city of Messene in apparently 85 days in a truly magnificent attempt to keep the Spartans at bay. It worked, the Spartans were held back time after time. The city retained it's independance until the Romans gained the city, shortly after 183 BC.

It is a magical place, make sure you see the whole site. You enter near the theatre and move down to the Agora after passing the foutainhouse. You then think you've seen it all, but no, keep walking and follow the track. You arrive at a superbly reconstructed stadium and gymnasium, the jewel in the crown,as it were. From here, you can see that work is still going on. I just couldn't get over how huge an area it covered.

There are a few officials who follow you about and blow a whistle at you if they think you are up to no good!!!I was about to walk on newly planted grass so was whistled at!!!

Make sure you visit, it's little known but gradually, people are being made aware of this site.