Pecs Things to Do

1 more image

The constructions of the defence wall (fortification) are now visible mostly around Northern and Western edge of the old Pecs, and here and there in fractured ruins (such as by the Citrom lane which consisted Southern wall). Those at the Northern wall are in particularly good condition, with few bastion (see the photo below Kalvaria) along, which added later - already during Ottoman era. However, the best preserved of the bastions is powerful Barbakan bastya (Barbican) along the end of Centre-West promenade, behind which (at the inner side of enclosure) is Bishops palace.

The defence walls were build to secure the city before Turkish threat in 15th century - yet, it didn't help much to defence because obviously Turks grew by mid 16th century more powerful by force and overwhelmed Pecs which become administrative centre of sandzak; according to planning, few gates (by each side of town) allowed travel in and outside the city boundary, and the walls were continued to be in use during Ottoman era, even strenghtened. After being freed, most of the Southern and Eastern fortification was destroyed.

4 more images

Large and most significant square in Pecs had gone through mayor reconstruction recently and it's now off limits to traffic - it again becomes a square in its original yet modernized meaning, the stage to display city's wealth and to bring people together, latter especially during major events. Here are Pecs most important buildings, speaking rich language of the architecture and history. Here are its icons - the buildings most often seen on postcards; to the North gentle curves of the Mecsek hill enclosed in the image of the place.
Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim - now church, Varoshaza with neo-Baroque tower, impressive Megyehaza, plague column and interesting fountains, Hunyadi sculpture - the heroic Hungarian warrior, Irgalmasok - st Sebastian - church, Zsolnay fountain... just to name a few most notable features; learn their names, observe the forms, activity related to present, history and places.
Visit by day or night... with each specific light of a moment, depending on season. Find its topography - a square lies on a slopes, slightly falling to its southern edge.

Sit down by their uniquely designed benches, observe the engaved patterns in the stone. Find the shelter among the vegetation, feed the birds... the square is place to do things. From it, it takes a step and you're lots in many interesting, charming streets which are pure pleasure to explore.

4 more images

Pecsi Kisgaleria is great small gallery near the corner of Ferencesek utcaja and Szent Isztvan ter and it holds temporary exhibitions. At time of my visit to Pecs (January 2011) they displayed Secession posters both of foreign and Hungarian artists, which provided rare opportunity to glance of the expressions of this fabulous art era in local context. The gallery has only two exhibition places, size of a livingroom with wooden parquet - perfect for the intimate atmosphere for close interaction with exposed works. Custos didn't fail to provide some of the leading names of the movement whom created numbers of the most delicate posters of a time (early 20ieth century) and they remain desired (and multiplicated) in many forms today, even commercialized (as prints on the mugs, T-shirts and calendars, for example).

Unfortunatelly, I have no idea of where to find the future program for following exhibitions. There's no offcial web site of the gallery or anything I could find on the internet.

Small fee applies, open from 10 am (12 am in winter season) - 6 pm. Student discount. There is small bookshop (and postcard) section in the realms of gallery, with art related subjects.

4 more images

It must be Kiraly utca that feels like the main pedestrian street in centre - though, it is not 'pedestrian' by its entire leg. However, this is lively place in move, adorned by many sculptures and fountains, both taking interesting place and form; pass historic baroque buildings - both sacral and business, and some traditional Hungarian facades, here and there Secession masterpieces (as the hotel Palatinus) as well as Historicist ones. Comes with busy foot traffic: here are many shops, boutiques, sweetshops, theater, banks, fast food restaurants, cafes, casino... and great pubs that open late. Almost anything you may need; to quench a thirst or fill a stomach, to get rid off forint or to hang out till morning in one of those places here. To meet local as well as foreign, here's the street that hears many languages.

Street is named upon Jozsef Kiraly, a Bishop of Pecs (1807 - 1825).

4 more images

A city hall takes outstanding measures and remarkable yellow-white facade with particularly notable, rich middle section above main entry; its Baroque-influenced tower raising upon the building by the side at Kiraly street - and it's visible from every corner of the main, Szechenyi square and from neighbouring streets. As you see all that significant architecure enclosing vast public square, City hall (Varoshaza) somehow wins 'the competition' for attention: this is the symbolic language to say who rules the destiny of a place.

The corner to Kiraly street had been place of previous City hall(s) - those were then gone and replaced by the latest one: the architect was Adolf Lang, construction was completed in 1907. It surprisingly (or not) looked for inspiration of powerful past styles, which resulted in Historicist architecture of Varoshaza; that style at the time thrived through many places in Central Europe. Thus, it only takes a look inside - and I encourage you to do so - to find its (yet another) latest expression of a time, the Secession... here you see its flower-adorned staircase, luxuriously designed main doors and a beautiful Zsolnay clock. These were times when both Secession and Historicism were fashion, and it is also not uncommon that they appeared together in a building, though purist may find this a deviation.

Nowsadays, the ground floor houses bookshop, tourist information centre, pubs - and - large McDonalds at its most exposed corner (at meeting of Kiraly and Szechenyi square). The office of mayor is in 2nd floor.

Within latest redefinition and reconstruction of a square which took some drastic changes (which is not all that negative in this case since you've got very articulated, modern pedestrian square) an interesting floor-fountain appears in a platform in front of main entry to the Hall.

Pecs was (is) home of once strong Jewsih community and few related buildings existed in town as well as quite large Jewish cemetery outside city walls (see spearated tip for more details). The Synagogue takes dominating place above Kossuth square, which is otherwise quite a collection of buildings from different periods in history.
It was yet another monument closed during winter (opened between May - October or so, correct me if I am wrong) and I only took a look around it and inside the school next to it - from what it suggests, it is now finely preserved building and of what I read, its interior is also worth to take a look.

The Synagogue was built in 1869 - the architecs were Frigyes Feszl, Karoly Gerster and Lipot Kauser - at that time notable Hungarian men whom managed to create very decent building of worship - see its fine frontal facade which is further ariculated by the inscription, and by the top middle upon entire building: with Moses tablet of Ten Commandements, which are in numeric form.

If once the Jewish population was thriving and counted some 4000 people, its number greatly declined during WWII when many of them were deported to concentration camp, and only small number of survivals returned back to Pecs.

4 more images

Grand Hotel Palatinus has survived turbulent times after being opened in 1915, yet it is considered as one of the finest Secession buildings in Pecs, rising upon Kiraly street a few steps from Szechenyi square - and though you won't maybe stay here, do take a step inside to view its magnificent lobby. Staff is friendly and allowed me to take few photos. Alternatively take a seat in their restaurant, try some specialities and note beautiful peacock-like decoration at the side wall. This part (a restaurant) is named upon Bela Bartok whom had a concert there in 1923.

The Hotel had been changing hands of few different owners after it was originally build (and sold) by the industrialist family of Hamerli; after WWII it became state property and since the 'business' wasn't that good at those times, it was closed for few years until being rebuilt and re-opened again by late 1980'ies. Now it belongs to Danubius hotel chain.

There is some fine feel when you stay in the building, in front of the monumental staircase and you try to imagine early 20ieth centrury or so, after Hotel just being open - all those fine aristocratic ladies in feathers and wearing gentle, almost transparent silk, like those models from Mucha or Klimt pictures, sipping liquor and a cigarette on a long holder, gents with cigars, many glasses of wine drank and thick smoke in the air... with fine music playing yet most people chat and laugh discreetly (or not), and the atmosphere of seduction.

I guess this kind of thoughts you bear in mind as you enter the Hotel. Immagination helps - it brings the most vivid dreams to a lonely reception halls.

1 more image

Shorter street that is, which begins at south-east corner of Szechenyi square (at Irgalmas rendi templom; Benevolent Brothers church) and ends by the intersection to Rakoczi ut to which direction is slightly declining. Street that is mostly pedestrianized, with small shops, interesting historic facades and cafes by the side, as well as new benches that were designed for Pecs recently. Good spot to catch some interesting sights of the Gazi Kasim Pasha mosque with a scenery of Mecsek hill behind it as you walk towards the square. It will pass large Kossuth square where recent and old architectures clash with eachother.
Enter some side cafes for cooked wine or meal.