Pecs Things to Do

3 more images

It is one of the buildings that symbolizes Pecs and Ottoman era in Transdanubian basin: former mosque from 16th century, apparently the largest in Central Europe dominates Szechenyi square with its traditional cubus (yet, without minaret which was hit by lightning in 18th century and then finally torn down) and with distinguishing Islamic decoration (of the windows). It comes as no surprise - at the site of the ancient Gothic church (from 13th century) which stones were used as a construction material. Then - after Turks were gone, it becomes Catholic church and since then used for religious services. Given its age, it has survived numerous renovation - reconstruction projects, latest was in 1942 or so.

What will maybe immediately become interesting to your sight is its top - above a dome, the cross and crescen placed together on the same metal rod - so tightly close to eachother, so symbolic.

Now... its position in Pecs and among diverse history, its image as an unique entity... that makes this mosque - now church - a subject that allows many interesting interpretations.

2 more images

In front of Pecs National Theatre (Pecsi Nemzeti Szinhaz would be its Hungarian name) building, notable for its facade - see this small, interestingly paved square - Szinhaz ter, with its fountains: this place suggest pleasant atmosphere on warm evening when neighbour cafes bring out the tables. Or when the theatre is open for a show its stairs become a centre of action, particularly lively. All enclosed by buildings with historic facades - there is some unique feel to this place. Kiraly street is juxtaposed over and people pass, many actually do stop for few moments - and then it can be interesting to observe, too.

2 more images

There is an interesting war memorial in the main square—two large panels depict soldiers in uniform over the centuries.

The central statue is Janos Hunyadi, who fought against the Turks and fathered a Hungarian king.

The square is also full of people and ringed with interesting buildings--it's a good place to spend some time.

3 more images

The St. Peter Basilica was built about 1000 years ago, but the current décor is late 19th Century. During the Turkish years, it was also a mosque. The walls are now painted in a pattern that looks like wallpaper. There are 7 steps up to the altar, representing the 7 sacraments. The organ, made in Pecs 100 years ago, has 7000 pipes.

I especially liked the doors into the church—copper grapevines, complete with grape clusters and birds, form an airy pattern.

2 more images

Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka (1853-1919)

I spotted the poignant statue of an artist as we walked down the hill from the cathedral - palette held in his right hand , left hand poised ready for the next stroke of the brush - but the hand was empty. Time or someone had stolen the painter’s brush. A small plaque almost unseen in the grass told us he was Csontváry - a name previously unknown to me.
I was intrigued and soon delighted as we passed a sign bearing the same name outside a museum..
We were by now short of time and the museum was due to close in half an hour but I wanted to see some of the work of this sad, Van Gogh like figure.

I found the paintings very powerful indeed, quite disturbing and not easy to comprehend. It came as no surprise to learn that the artist had had a life troubled by mental illness; in his 20’s he underwent a mystical experience and was later diagnosed as suffering from schizophrenia . He only took up his lifelong ambition to paint when he was about 42 years of age and in the 25 years until his death in 1919 had amazing output.

You can see some of his paintings on the web site given below.

Price Admission 700 Ft ($3.80/£2). Pécs, Janus Pannonius u. 11.

Opening times: 1 Apr-31 Oct: Tue-Sun 10-18;
1 Nov-31 March: Tue-Sun 10-17

3 more images

The traditional custom of lovers to symbolise their never ending love for each other by locking a padlock and throwing away the key is practised in several east European countries. This we were told by a friendly local man passing by as we walked down Janus Pannonius u. after our visit to the Cathedral and the Csontváry art museum.

We had stopped to gaze at the padlocks which covered two separate, nearby railings on the left hand side of the road.
Some of the padlocks were rusting away, others gleaming with newness.

The custom here is more recent and started when our informant was a student at the University in the early 1980's. Amongst the rusting locks was the one he had planted there.

We asked what had happened to the object of his affections - sadly, he told us, he had not seen her since that day........

1 more image

In the 1980s a tradition was started in Pecs whereby lovers would attach padlocks to a metal fence in Janus Pannonius utca, as an expression of their devotion to each other. This was initially discouraged as vandalism, but has since become a tourist attraction in its own right, with the tradition even spreading to other cities in Hungary, like Miskolc, and even further afield to cities like Florence and Riga.

2 more images

The four towered Cathedral of Pecs was originally built in the 11th century, but the current incarnation was clearly the result of more recent renovations, dating back to end of the 19th century. It overlooks a beautiful tree-shaded square, and the walks around here are wonderful on a hot summer afternoon.