Skaftafell Things to Do

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Skaftafelljokull has the easiest access point containing a nice “welcome” joint complete with a shop, cafeteria, exhibition hall and even a movie theater where the story of the area is being told through the most powerful media. Outside of this commercial haven one needs no intermediaries – the mountains and glaciers are in full view just a kilometer or so away. The distance is negligible and walking is the only option anyway. Along the path there are different points of interest such as a stone with markings by the Danish surveyors who indicated the extent of the glacier at the beginning of the 20th century – much further out than nowadays. Meanwhile, it is revealing to witness how the vegetation changes within meters – trees give way to bushes which in turn yield to shrubs till only the smallest flowers can hold on to the barren land. The immediate area around the lake is lifeless. The water of the lake is of a classical murky glacial quality since the crushing action of the moving ice brings stone debris and soil from the mountain. Considering this fact it is most amazing that the bigger lake at Jokulsarlon has the most beautiful crystal clear water despite its glacial origins. Maybe the lake is deep and large enough to have all the stone matter turn into sediment on the bottom. Whatever the case, the result is completely the opposite, thank God!

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It is not immediately clear what the impression is that Jokulsarlon produces on the poor souls visiting it during lousy weather. For the lucky folk attending the spectacle at its prime with beautiful blue sky, it is mesmerizing. There is a feeling of being if not on another planet than at least at its opposite end – Antarctica. Just the lack of penguins and the size of icebergs suggest that this is not the case. Strategically placed picnic tables allow for uninterrupted consumption of Nature in all of its forms through different channels. Fish on the menu solidifies the unity of Man and Nature and its endless cycles. The sensation of infinity is magnified by numerous icebergs waiting in line to enter the journey to yet another dimension of life –the sea. The individuals with a need to come closer are supplied with the means – boat rides to the bosom of the lake goddess. For the ones in need of reverie and contemplation of the deity, the rocky shores provide the perfect venue.

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Svartifoss is situated in Skaftafell national park in S-Iceland.

At the Visitor centre you can get information on how to get to Svartifoss waterfall. It is 1,5 kilometres from the Visitor centre, uphill and on the way to Svartifoss you come across 2 other waterfalls Þjófafoss (Thieves' fall) and Hundafoss (Dogs´fall). The hike is ca 90 minutes back and forth with stops, and you can then walk down to Svartifoss to see it up-close. It is a breathtaking waterfall (mind you I love waterfalls) 12 meters high with black columnar basalt formations which beautifully frame the waterfall and give it its name.

The hike is easy, you don't even notice that you are going upwards until you see the view from above. And it is so worth it. On your way back you can either return the same way or cross the river by Svartifoss and return back there. On that route you will get a closer look at Þjófafoss (see my next tip) and get to see the lovely Lambhagi - Lamb pastures (see my tip).

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Skaftafellsjökull - glacier is located in Skaftafell national park.

2/3 of Vatnajökull, Europe's biggest glacier, belong to the National Park of Skaftafell. From the Visitor Centre at Skaftafell there is an hour's hike back and forth to the glacier. Dress warmly as the temperature drops when you get close to the glacier. Don't get too close though and never go on the glacier unaccompanied. In front of the glacier there used to be treacherous quick sands, so one couldn´t get too close to it, but that has been "fixed" so last time I visited I could walk almost straight up to the glacier.

It is possible to get very close though and there is a lagoon in front of the glacier with chunks from the glacier.

The trail leading to the glacier from the Visitor Centre is a good one (seeing that Skaftafell is a National park). It used to be by the rocky hill, but they have changed it as pieces of rocks were falling from it. When I was there in 2008 a large rock had just fallen from the hill on the trail.

By the Visitor Centre there are two companies which offer trips on the glacier. I have never fancied going on a glacier, I know how dangerous they can be and I don't fancy snow that much. But I know these trips are very popular.

A little south of Egilsstadir is Lagarfljot. A glacial lake that is fed from Vatnajokull and flows out to the Arctic Ocean.

Ever since Viking times a monster, the Lagerfljot worm, has been spotted. However, I was not lucky enough to spot it,,, despite my best attempts! Actually the worm has not been spotted since the 1980s... The Icelandics view the Lagerfljot worm in the same way as the Brits and the Scots view the Loch Ness Monster. Still,,,

Even sans worm, the lake is pretty and there is rather a nice mountain/volcano backdrop.

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During the war there were aprox 3000 soldiers stationed here in Reydarfjordur. The Americans convinced the locals to help them build some hospitals here. There were never used for this purpose. No Icelanders actually faught in the war but many fisherman did get killed bringing their ships with fish to the UK.

There is a war museum here, surrounded by mines and all sorts.
During the winter months the museum is firmly closed, however you can still have a poke around the "hospitals" from the outside.

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Oh the Eastfjords are beautiful. Vast stretches of crystal clear water thinning into fingers that stretch into the shoreline upon which pretty, little villages sit with their brightly coloured rooftops and square, wooden churches. Small harours of gayly painted boats and snowy capped mountains and cliffs. Shy reindeer coyly grazing where the snow has melted in the winter sun that skip like little fairies across the waters.... and the vistas appear to go on, forever.

I loved driving around and around the Eastfjords... first on this sie of the water.... then on that side of the water, then the road spliutting the waters... pretty waterfalls, pretty bridges, pebbles, stones, fishermen... picturesque.

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The road to Hofn, from Jokulsárlon there are some gems to look out for, including the abandoned building with Banksy-esque style graffiti on it. I was happily whizzing along at 90kpm when I saw it, slammed on breaks and broke sharp right to stop - that woke the family up!!!

Some beautiful abandoned buildings are along this stretch of road.

The naturally formed landscape is rather pretty too!!!