Intra Moenia: In the Piazza Bellini
From the time we came upon it by accident on our first evening in Naples, the Piazza Bellini became our favourite spot in which to end (and on one occasion to start!) every evening. Quite near the university, it attracts something of an intellectual crowd, and the bars and cafés have a little of the feel of Paris’s Left Bank (the less touristy parts). One bar, Intra Moenia, became a firm favourite in just those few days.
It describes itself as a “Caffé Letterario” (i.e. Bookstore Café): a salon for viewing, hearing and tasting Neapolitan culture in the heart of the historic centre. Inside it consists of several small rooms, some of which have books for sale, another a piano and (when we were there) a photography exhibition. Most of these rooms have tables and chairs for drinking and/or eating the light meals served here. There is also an enclosed terrace, which was our usual choice, and plenty of tables outside in the square itself. Smoking is allowed in the last two places but not right indoors.
Mostly we came here just for a drink – an after dinner grappa being my preferred choice. On one occasion we also ate dessert here – apple cake for me and chocolate cake for Chris, with coffees – and on another a pre-dinner Campari and beer. We also visited one of the other cafés in the square (I didn’t note its name but it was the most northern of the little row) where I sampled the local delicacy limoncello. This had a similar covered terrace, and made a pleasant change, but I preferred the Intra Moenia for its friendly waitress, arty atmosphere and wider views of the square.
Dress Code: Nothing special - but wrap up warm if you fancy sitting outside in November!
Otto Jazz: Basement Jazz
A good film that is partially set in Naples is "The Talented Mr. Ripley." I really love the scene where the Matt Damon character and the Jude Law character go out to a Neapolitan jazz club and Matt Damon sings "My Funny Valentine." Well, as it happens that scene was filmed at a jazz club in Rome -- but the "Otto jazz" club gives you the feel and the atmosphere of that kind of intimate and sophisticated night spot. There's good music here just about every night of the week - both local acts and some big shows from touring Europeans and Americans. Naples loves jazz - as is the case in many European cities, you have a choice of jazz clubs. (Most US cities are not so fortunate!)
Dress Code: nice casual
La Bavarese. - A little Bavaria in Naples: My favorite nighttime spot
This place is soooo much fun. Dancing. Live bands and some good food. Order pitchers of sangria and have some fun. They now have dance instructors that teach Latin dances free. Don't be surprised to see families with young children there either. They may look small, but some of those kids can dance.
MAKE RESERVATIONS for a sure shot at getting a table on the weekends. Crowd picks up at around 11pm.
Dress Code: Jeans to suits. You will see everything here. Also, watch your camera, as is the case in all of Naples. I think one of the waiters snagged mine after I left it there by accident. He could have kept it, I just wanted my film!
One great band - Nevada - plays here frequently. Check out my tip on that band for their website.
Pinterre': I hip you hip...we hip
Hip cafe' with a captal H.
There is usually good music and a lot of what I like to call youngens. Anyone who is anyone is here at some point in the night. It accomodates what Italian kids like to do best and that is sit around and people watch as they kill the early hours of the night before the hitting up the clubs.
Its right on the water and offers a nice view of mergellina.
Dress Code: No dress code.
Mouse Club: Naples clubbing
This club is a great place to meet people, it only cost between 2 and 7 euro to get in, depending on the night it's in the area of Naples called "Centro Storico", it's the college area of Naples, the people here are much more down to earth and easier to approach at the club. At other clubs you will have a much harder time meeting chics unless you're black.
Dress Code: none within reason
Caffè Gambrinus: Caffè Gambrinus
It's quite expensive but it's a beautiful Café. They also serve meals and more.
Built in 1.860, some famous astists, writers and politics who visted this Café. Among the, Oscar Wilde and Guy de Maupassant.
Les Belles Choses Birrera Pub: Naples Pub Crawl
Le Belle Choses is a good watering hole for someone like me that loves beer for there are many varieties to chose from as the name suggests. The pub is located right near Piazza Plebiscito and there is outdoor seating where I enjoyed people watching as I drank my pint.
Dress Code: Casual
- Food and Dining
- Beer Tasting
Various: Clubs & Pubs
Naples is full of young people and there's alot to do pretty much any night of the week. Friday-Sunday are the best though. If you're in Mergellina, there's three places that come to mind: Heiniken Bar, Joyces Irish Pub & The White Room. All have relatively low priced drinks compared to what you'd pay in places like Rome. The street that contains these pubs are full of other pubs also, so there are alot of people out during the warmer months of the year. There's also a great sushi bar around there called JapOne. Awesome sushi. There's another sushi bar whose name I will get a bit later, but at night it becomes a dance club. Also near the "Big Three" hotels in Mergellina, there are nice clubs including Bar Dell Ovo.
Dress Code: Naples dress code is sexy & trendy. Sometimes you'd thing WTF are they wearing but hey, Italy is the trend setter. If you're American, dress casual an skip the white athletic socks if you're wearing a nice pair of pants and shoes. I've heard from friends from Italy to London that most of the time that is how they know we are from the states.
Teatro di San Carlo: The German President and a New Umbrella
You really should make an effort to attend an opera or concert at San Carlo while you're in Naples. You won't be disappointed - this is the ultimate classic opera house. You may have seen it in films like "Farinelli" or "The Talented Mr. Ripley." Chances are you'll feel somewhat glamorous just being here!
I had an interesting time at San Carlo when I visited Naples. The opera was not in season, but there was a performance by the Orchestra of San Carlo, under the direction of a visiting German conductor. They played an all-German concert (!): Brahms First Piano Concerto, AND Mahler's Fourth Symphony. WOW! I thought that it was very interesting that the concert didn't start until 9 p.m. - everything is later in Naples, indeed. Another thing that made the concert very interesting is that it was attended by Horst Köhler, the Federal President of Germany. Security was tight, with plenty of guards and police both outside and inside the theater. The Bundespresident drove up in a motorcade, his limosuine marked with small German flags fluttering in the wind. Inside, the audience stood and gave Köhler a standing ovation, and then the orchestra played the German national anthem. It was the first time I've attended a concert in the presence of a head of state - and quite fascinated that it should be in Naples.
It had been raining that night, and after the concert was over - it was nearly 11.30 p.m. when the last strains of the Mahler were played - I went to the coat check to reclaim my umbrella. Much to my concern, they could not find my small blue folding umbrella! The coat girl spoke very little English, and I speak very little Italian, but we were able to communicate sufficiently for us to understand one another. Finally, after five minutes of looking, she gave up - and presented me with another umbrella - from a special box of "unclaimed articles". Oddly, it was a full length umbrella, and much nicer than the one than the one I had brought with me. Italians can be very nice.
Dress Code: Dressy.
- Theater Travel
House, Disco: Geckos...
After being in Naples for over three years i have to say this place is keewwll! Built in the side of a mountain near downtown or should I say Priscilipo, The place is alot of fun...Alot of locals and it stays open until i have tosay 4am, Good music, beautiful women
Dress Code: Jeans, Casual
LA MELA: This is the most...
LA MELA: This is the most exclusive nightclub in Naples, and has been running now for over 30 years, Expect to see someone at the door deciding who can and can't come in. The owner, Antonello Fabbrocini, is proud to welcome Naples' smart set to his premises. People come to dance and sometimes attend fashion shows or book launches. Entrance, which includes a first drink, costs ITL30,000.
Dress Code: Smart/casual, no trainers
JASAY NIGHTLIFE: This is the...
JASAY NIGHTLIFE: This is the latest of the 'locali alternativi'. It opened in October 1998, and is in some ways symbolic. Located midway between the historic suburbs of Naples, it's intended to inject new life into the rundown port area, and allow those who live in different parts of the city to meet. Concert entry costs ITL15,000-25,000, and includes a free drink.
Dress Code: Casual. Trainers allowed
VIBES CAFE: Vibes Cafe is...
VIBES CAFE: Vibes Cafe is opposite the Institute of Oriental Studies and, unsurprisingly, is popular with students and teachers during the day. In the evening, the clientele is still young but more varied. From Thursday to Sunday, the cafe becomes a small concert hall, and the talented Neapolitan musician, Daniel Sepe plays every Friday.
Dress Code: Casual. Trainers allowed
All around town: Some Naples Nightlife spots
Here's a short list I've compiled to get you started.
CITY HALL CAFÈ
Corso Vittorio EmanuEle, 137/a, tel. 081-669.400
Main room and smaller sitting rooms, Internet and Radio Med
Via del Parco Margherita, 13, tel. 081-407.526
Va Sgambati, 47, tel. 081-546.65.66
Discotheque on two floors
Via Medina, 12, tel. 081-580.01.90
OTTO JAZZ CLUB
Piazzetta Cariati, 24, tel. 081-666.262
High quality, live jazz
Via dei Mille, tel. 081-422.334
Via San Biagio dei Librai, 38, tel. 081-552.32.31
Via Manzoni, 207, tel. 081-769.08.06
Via Coroglio, 128, tel. 081-570.89.92
Live blues, New Age, and funky music
Via Caccavallo, 17, tel. 081-556.05.52
Umm....another hard one. The...
Umm....another hard one. The main square...away from the train station! Santa Chiara was nice.
The Street Festival was happening when we were there. Nearly got ran over by all the bikers!
Dress Code: Nicely. But not too nicely, you don't want to be a target for pick-pockets!
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