Naples Off The Beaten Path

The Solfatara is a volcano crater in the south west corner of Naples. Entry costs 6 euros and for this you get to wander around the crater. As you walk around the guide path you might be wondering what you've paid for. However stop as you come out of the trees and go closer to all the yellow marks on the white rocks. Look closer and you'll smell sulpher and see the steam venting. In the centre are boiling mud pools and further round are bigger vents. The amount of activity you see will depend on how much is happening underground. Bear in mind you are standing on the crust that is on top of a lava field...makes you feel a bit wobbly if you're a tad overweight. Fretteth not though, the last time it erupted was 800 years ago. A very quirky place to visit if you've never seen anything like this before. Nice bar too for a shady drink after the heat of the crater.

Don't know how you get there by public transport but ample car parking and hardly anybody there when we went in August. Not far from the Aganano horse racing...do the late afternoon at Solfatara then go horse racing.

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This is actually where you want to be. After you see the Palazzo Reale wander off into Spaccanapoli to see how the real Neapolitans live. It's like a wonderful bazaar of people, restaurants and services. We spent most of our time wandering here.

At one time it was sparsely populated, but in the past 50 years it has become overcrowded and stands as an example of what life is like in the "real Naples". By the way, a pizza in Pianura will only cost you 2,50 euro!! That's the best, and cheapest meal you'll ever eat.

The baroque columns on several piazzas in the historic center are the only remnant of former festivities that took place at that time.

They were erected to celebrate an event and became the target of ceremonies, holy processions and decorations. Only later in 17th century appeared fountains and statues, the fountains having also the advantage to provide a safeguard against the fires.

During my last visit to Naples I stayed at the Hostel of the Sun and they offered several different walking tours during the day and at night. It was very inexpensive...less then 10 euro for most of them and alot of fun if you don't mind the younger, backpacking crowd. Just google "Hostel of the Sun - Naples" or go to www.hostelbookers.com to get contact info and you can email them for more info. The Hostel of the Sun is the starting point for the tours and the hostel is located by Castel Nuovo. You don't have to be a guest to take part of the various tours. The night tour is the most fun as it shows off the city at night and then ends with pizza and beer's....if drinking not your thing I believe they had soda as well!

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To reach this volcanic crater, currently the most active in the entire area, carry on from the Amphitheatre up towards the Metro station of Pozzuoli. Alternatively, of course, arrive this way from any Metro Station (Blue Line).

Solfatara is a short walk uphill and round couple of bends in the road. Inside the crater there are very active steam vents (fumaroles) visible but apparently the crater is almost dormant in comparison to its glorious past. There is however a bubbling mud pool in the centre and signs of sulphur deposits from deep within.

The stench is quite strong near the most active areas, enough to delight the kids after they are tired of culture!

We ate a picnic in a pleasant dedicated area suitably far from the fumes and then continued back to Naples by Metro.

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Pozzuoli can easily be reached from Naples. Take the Ferrovia Cumana from Montesanto terminus and get off at Pozzuoli station.

After a brief walk around a pretty harbour we followed signs to the Anfiteatro. This was something of a mistake as the route was marked for cars, and although we arrived eventually there were quicker, but steeper routes.

The Amphitheatre itself seems fairly ordinary on the surface and is somewhat spoiled by recent additions of modern seating. Underground however it is spectacular and you can almost hear the sounds of the diabolical practices (to our minds) that were carried on here.

When the stress of Naples is enough, you can take a boat to the least visited of the islands and the nearest one, Procida. It still retains a charm of the old village, remote island where things go much slowly, the sea is nice and clean...

Eat in one of the restaurants in the harbour, go swimming, visit the ancient abbey or just stroll around...

The boats depart almost every hour in the morning and you have several returns in the evening, with different companies.