Naples Things to Do

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One of three monumental guglie (spires) in Naples, la Guglia dell'Immacolata is perhaps its most famous. It crowns the centre of Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, which is of religious significance due to the important churches surrounding it, namely Santa Chiara and Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo. The latter belonged to the Jesuits who commissioned this obelisk spire itself in 1743 and dedicated it to the Immaculate Conception. Giuseppe Genuino designed the Baroque marble spire, but it was carved by Francesco Pagano and Matteo Bottiglieri.

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The monastic complex of Saints Marcellino and Festo was created in 1565 as a result of the fusion of two adjacent ancient monasteries, one dedicated to Saint Festo and the other to Saints Marcellino and Pietro. This caused the immediate need to reconstruct the complex which was completed in 1595 by the architect Giovanni Vincenzo Della Monica (who also worked on San Gregorio Armeno). The ancient church, however, was not renovated until the early 17th century by the architect Giovan Giacomo Di Conforto. In the middle of the 18th century, the complex, particularly the church, received further remodelling by the architects Mario Gioffredo and Luigi Vanvitelli, who rebuilt the church's façade, added the majolica-tiled dome and turned the interior into arguably one of the most beautiful of the Baroque churches in Naples. In 1808, the monastery was closed as part of the Suppression and in the early 20th century, the Università degli Studi di Napoli Federico II took over and turned the complex into its campus.

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Set up in 1602 by Neapolitan nobles, Pio Monte della Misericordia (Pious Mount of Mercy) is a charitable brotherhood. Its original small chapel, located near il Duomo in central Naples, was enlarged in 1678 into the existing grand church, designed by the architect Francesco Antonio Picchiatti. The Baroque church has an octagonal plan and is accessed through the portico of a dominant palazzo belonging to the same brotherhood. The interior of the church, although relatively plain, contains very important works of art, the most important of which is le Sette opere di Misericordia (the Seven Acts of Mercy), by Caravaggio, painted when the artist took refuge in Naples. Note that photography within the church is forbidden, so I only have photos of the exterior palazzo.

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This Renaissance period palazzo was built in 1512 for Bartolomeo di Capua, thus it is sometimes known as Palazzi di Capua. It current name, Palazzo Marigliano is etched in stone above its arched portal and refers to the last owners who purchased it in the 19th century. It was designed by Francesco Mormando in the typical Neapolitan palazzo style, but in the 18th century the edifice underwent a major restoration. As is typical in this city, the portal leads into a spacious courtyard with a monumental double staircase at the opposite end. Although not the grandest in Naples, the Marigliano staircase seen in the attached photo illustrates the style that is most common. The ceiling of the arched portal is painted with beautiful frescoes that probably date from the 18th century renovation (again, see photos). Palazzo Marigliano is located on via San Biagio dei librari, close to Via Duomo, and is nowadays occupied by Soprintendenza Archivistica per la Campania, an arm of the ministry of cultural affairs. Much like many buildings in Naples, the palazzo is rather rundown and in need of restoration.

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Part of the complex of San Gregorio Armeno (see previous tip), the namesake church was rebuilt with the complex in 1572. It was the work of the two architects, Giovanni Vincenzo Della Monica and Giovan Battista Cavagna, but the interior received further renovations in the 17th century by the architect Dionisio Lazzari. A Renaissance style façade with a Baroque portico leads into one of the most richly decorated interiors in Napoli. It is seen by some as barocco napoletano gone over the top, while others find as one of the finest examples. You be the judge.

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Thought to occupy the site of the Roman Temple of Ceres and an early Christian church built by Empress Helena (mother of Constantine the Great), the monastic complex of San Gregorio Armeno traces its roots back to the 8th century AD. It is said that a group of Basilian sisters, carrying the relics of Saint Gregory, settled in Naples from Constantinople to escape persecution. They founded a convent dedicated to the saint, which was united with two other monasteries in 13th century and collectively became il Complesso di San Gregorio Armeno. In the 16th century, the complex was rebuilt entirely, but it underwent further expansions and renovations in subsequent centuries (see next tip for the church itself). One interesting feature in the complex is the campanile (bell tower), which was built over the street and contains a passage between the main complex and an annex across the street (see attached photos). The cloister is reached via a grand staircase whose walls are painted with amazing frescoes. From the cloister, two intriguing chapels are accessed.

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Adjacent to the Basilica di Santa Chiara, this complex consists of a convent and a monastery (Franciscan/Clarist). It was built together with the basilica in the 14th century, over the ruins of the Roman Baths of Neapolis, and much like the basilica, the rest of the complex underwent a transformation in 1742 by Domenico Vaccaro. Whereas the architect altered the church into a rich Baroque design, he retained the Gothic character of the cloisters, though he had the arched porticoes of the large cloister, il Chiostro delle Clarisse, painted by Donato and Giuseppe Massa with the most striking frescoes in Naples. Two intersecting paths in the courtyard were flanked by octagonal columns covered in painted majolica tiles. The beautiful and peaceful Chiostro delle Clarisse, with its mix of styles - pointed Gothic arches, colourful Baroque frescoes, Rococo majolica tiles - and citrus trees was my absolute favourite place in Napoli. The cloister gives access to a small museum (Museo dell'Opera di Santa Chiara), which shows the ruins of the Roman Baths along with artwork from the church.

For more photos of this beautiful cloister, take a look at the travelogue: "il Chiostro di Santa Chiara."

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Commissioned by local merchants and artisans, the Church of SS Filippo e Giacomo was built in 1593, the late Renaissance period. In 1758, it was renovated into the current barocco napoletano style by the architect Gennaro Papa. It consists of a single nave with numerous richly decorated side chapels, a beautiful floor of majolica tiles designed by Giuseppe Massa, and a vaulted ceiling frescoed by Giacomo Cestraro.