Naples Things to Do

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Completed in 1646 by the architect Francesco Grimaldi, the Reale Cappella del Tesoro di San Gennaro is a masterpiece of Neapolitan Baroque architecture. It was constructed as part of the Duomo, to the right hand side of the nave opposite the Basilica di Santa Restituta, to honour the patron saint of Naples, San Gennaro. So important was the saint to Neapolitans that no expense was spared in the construction of his chapel, from richly carved polychrome marble to a dome painted with exquisite frescoes. The renowned Neapolitan artist, Francesco Solimena designed the elaborate altar.

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The relatively small Chiesa del Gesù delle Monache is located close to Porta San Gennaro. It was commissioned in the early 16th century by Queen Giovanna I d'Aragona (known in Spanish as Juana de Trastámara), wife of Ferrante d'Aragona, as some sort of a royal chapel, but the queen died before its completion. It took until 1582 to finally open the church, which has a late-Renaissance façade resembling a Roman triumphal arch. The interior, however, was renovated in the late 17th century in a richly decorated barocco napoletano style by the architect Arcangelo Guglielmelli. Some beautiful paintings by the renowned artist Luca Giordano decorate the interior.

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One of world's largest and oldest museums, il Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli contains an important collection of artefacts and artwork, mostly from around Naples. It is housed in a historic landmark building, built in the early 17th century originally as the University of Naples. When the university vacated in the 18th century, King Carlo di Borbone converted the edifice into a museum to showcase the Farnese Collection which he had donated. The collection included some of the finest classical sculptures in existence, some of which were brought over from the Baths of Caracalla in Rome. Archaeological discoveries made around Naples in the ensuing decades further enriched the museum, particularly Pompei, Stabiae and Herculaneum. In fact, the museum is most famous for the frescoes and mosaics brought in from nearby Pompeii - the reason I was drawn to Naples in the first place. Lesser known, but equally fascinating, is the "Secret Cabinet", a separate hall containing erotic sculptures and artefacts discovered in Pompeii that would make any of us blush. It took me over 4 years (in May 09) to finally make it to this museum after visiting Pompeii in 2005, but I highly recommend rushing here afterwards to complete the appreciation of the history of Pompeii.

For photos of the incredible collection, check out the travelogues: "Pompei's Frescoes", "Graeco-Roman Statues" and "Alexander Mosaic & More."

[UPDATE: On a second visit to the museum in Apr 2010, I was disappointed to find out that the mosaics wing and the Secret Cabinet had been closed since Feb 2010 for an extended period due to preservation work.]

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Commissioned by Charles II of Anjou (Carlo II d'Angiò) in 1283 AD, la Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore became the seat of the Dominican Order in Naples. Its interior was originally designed in a Gothic style but successive renovations, particularly after a fire in 1506, transformed it into a Baroque church. Another renovation in 1850 by the architect, Frederico Travaglini, altered it further into the extravagant Neo-Gothic interior that we see today, but the architect managed to conserve the stunning early 18th century ceiling frescoes by Francesco Solimena. The church's apse dominates Piazza San Domenico, where a side entrance provides an entry point. However, the façade of the church, designed in a mix of Gothic and Baroque styles, is hidden in a courtyard of a palazzo on the narrow street Vico San Domenico.

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In the centre of Piazza Bellini is an archaeological excavation of Ancient Greek walls. The ruins are thought to date from the 4th century BC and to belong to the fortified walls that protected the Greek city of Neapolis. The discovery of these ruins was made by chance in 1954 and illustrates how this city could be pealed like an onion to reveal one layer of history over another. Piazza Bellini itself is one of the more popular places in historic Naples for university students to hang out, particularly at one of its several bars and cafés with outdoor seating.

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Located in the heart of historic Naples, la Chiesa di Santa Maria Regina Coeli and its adjacent convent were built in the 16th century. The entrance to the church is up a grand double staircase and set inside a portico within the elegant Baroque façade. The vaulted ceilings of the portico are painted with beautiful frescoes by a Flemish artist, while the interior of the church contains sumptuous Baroque decorations from 17th and 18th century renovations.

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One of the largest churches in Napoli, Chiesa dei Girolamini was built between the 16th and 17th centuries as part of the Girolamini monastery complex whose entrance is across from the Duomo. The Gerolamini are the followers of San Filippo Neri, also known as the Oratorians. Their church was designed in 1590 by Giovanni Antonio Dosio, but the work was not completed until 1639, after his death, by Dionisio Nencioni di Bartolomeo who also worked on the nearby San Giuseppe dei Ruffi. Both architects were born in Tuscany and brought a touch of Tuscan style in the design of the church, which diverges slightly in its interior from typical Neapolitan Baroque. The cupola, however, was designed by yet another architect, Dionisio Lazzari. Unlike the interior, the façade is typically Neapolitan Baroque flanked by two bell towers. The church continued to be enriched with art in the following years and contains frescoes by Francesco Solimena.

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Discovered by chance during an early 1970s restoration, the archaeological excavations of the Duomo lie below the Basilica di Santa Restituta. The ruins are accessed from the basilica and transport the visitor to an even earlier period than the construction of the ancient basilica itself, when street levels were much lower. The foundations of earlier Roman and Greek period buildings, including the Temple of Apollo, Paleo-Christian floor mosaics over pagan ones, an aqueduct and some residences, can be seen. Whether or not one likes archaeology, visiting these ruins is a must as they help to illustrate the length of history that the city of Naples has witnessed.

[Note: when I visited in Apr 2010, the underground excavations were closed for an extended period for archaeological work.]