Naples Things to Do

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Originally from Calabria, the noble Tufarelli family settled in Napoli in the 17th century. They purchased this 15th century property that was part of Palazzo di Venezia and completely renovated it into the family palazzo. The architecture is typically Neapolitan Renaissance, with the grand open staircase in the courtyard with stacked arches. The family's coat of arms, consisting of a shield and a crown, is painted above the entrance.

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One of the richest museums in Neapolitan art, il Museo di San Martino, is housed in the stunning former Carthusian monastery known as la Certosa di San Martino. The monastery building itself is considered to be one of the highest expressions of barocco napoletano architecture. It was built in the 14th century, during the Angevin period, at a strategic location on the Sant'Elmo hill overlooking the city, but in the 16th and 17th centuries it underwent a transformation from a Gothic structure into the Baroque treasure we see today. Renowned Neapolitan architects and artists, Giovanni Antonio Dosio, Giovanni Lanfranco, Giovan Giacomo Di Conforto, Cozimo Fanzago and Nicola Tagliacozzi Canale, have each taken turns at embellishing the monastery with rich Baroque art and decorations. Most noteworthy are its exquisite church and subsidiary chapels, il Chiostro Grande (Large Cloister), and il Quarto del Priore (Prior's quarter). The Pinacoteca within the monastery displays a dazzling collection of paintings from the 14th to the 18th centuries, many of which were commissioned for the monastery itself. The Carthusians were expelled in the early 19th century, but left behind their amazing monastery intact, which was turned into a museum in 1866. Its art and architecture, coupled with the breathtaking views over the whole of Napoli, its bay and Monte Vesuvio, make Certosa di San Martino one of the most prized monuments in Naples.

For more photos check out the Travelogue: "Certosa di San Martino".

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Located along the Bay of Naples, just below the Sant'Elmo hill and Vomero, Chiaia is the most exclusive district of Naples. In local Neapolitan dialect, Chiaia simply means "beach", which is quite appropriate for a neighbourhood that was developed in the 19th century as a seafront resort. It thus contains many of the city's five star hotels and its luxury shopping. The area around Riviera di Chiaia and the corniche (lungomare) in Chiaia is planted with trees and offers breathtaking views of the Bay of Naples. It is a great place for a relaxing stroll.

Named after the much-revered patron saint of the city, Porta San Gennaro is one of the oldest city gates in Naples. The existing structure though was from a 15th century reconstruction and expansion of the city walls. The road outside the gate led directly to the catacomb of San Gennaro, hence the name. The 17th century fresco above the gate is by the artist Mattia Preti, who painted frescoes on other city gates in Naples to commemorate the victory over the Plague which had decimated the city's population.

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Towering above historic Naples and Chiaia, Vomero is graced by wonderful views over the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. The district occupies the entire hill of Sant'Elmo, which culminates at its namesake castle and the complex of San Martino. The area was developed in the late 19th century and quickly became an upper-middle class neighbourhood with many Belle Epoque apartment buildings and a few mansions. Although scenic, the area offers visitors little other than the must-see Certosa di San Martino, one of the city's best museums and architectural monuments (see separate tip).

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Built on Megaris, a small island off the shore of Naples, Castel dell'Ovo is thought to be the site of the first Ancient Greek settlement of Parthenope. It is thus the oldest part of Naples, inhabited perhaps as early as the 8th century BC, before Parthenope spread northwards, and before Neapolis, the "new city", was founded. During Roman times, the private villa of Lucius Licinius Lucullus occupied the island, but by the 5th century AD a monastery had replaced the villa. In the 9th century, the island was turned into a fortified castle, Napoli's oldest, which successive rulers continued to alter and reinforce until we were left with what we see today. Somewhere along its history, it became known as the "Egg Castle" (ovo = egg) in reference to a mediaeval legend that Virgil had placed a magical egg in the foundation of the castle. Castel dell'Ovo is nowadays open to visitors as a cultural centre and a museum showing the successive constructions of the castle and the excavations of the Roman villa and the Christian monastery.... but no magical egg was found underneath.

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Occupying the summit of its namesake hill, Castel Sant'Elmo commands strategic views over the city. The dominant castle was originally a fortified royal residence known as Belforte, built in the 13th century. A century later, Robert d'Angiò decided to improve the city's defences and enlarged the residence into a fortified castle. He awarded the job to the architect, Tino da Camaino, who was already working on the neighbouring Certosa di San Martino. In the 16th century, the Aragonese rulers of Naples further expanded the castle and gave it the existing six-pointed star shape that has survived to this day. It is from this expansion that the two-headed eagle of the House of Habsburg was mounted on the castle (see attached photos). In its later history, the castle also served as a prison for high profile personalities. Finally, in the 1970s, the castle was restored and turned into a multi-functional complex containing a few municipal offices, archives and venues for performing arts. The castle is not open as a museum.

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Much like other major basilicas in Naples, San Lorenzo Maggiore comes with its own religious complex, including a convent and cloister. The complex we have today is mostly from an 18th century reconstruction, but it preserves not only Mediaeval Gothic sections but also subterranean Graeco-Roman ruins, all of which are now open to the public as a fascinating museum exposing the ancient ruins and displaying other works of art. The ruins come in layers, the oldest of which date back to the 4th century BC and are of the Greek agora. Later ruins are from the 1st century AD and belong to the Roman Forum, and higher up still are remains the 6th century Paleo-Christian basilica that preceded la Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore. On ground level is the Baroque cloister, with its interesting well topped by a statue carved by Cozimo Fanzago. The cloister leads into a Mediaeval Gothic hall, whose vaulted ceilings rest on ancient columns and are painted with colourful Renaissance period frescoes.