Naples Things to Do

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Built in 1890, the Galleria Umberto I is an impressive commercial arcade, similar in architecture and purpose to the famous Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milano, and located near Piazza del Plebiscito. It was constructed during the massive urban redesign project that began in the late 19th century following the cholera epidemic, which led to the demolition of large sections of the city deemed unsanitary. The Belle Epoque gallery was designed by the architect, Emanuele Rocco, and named after Umberto I, the king of Italy at the time. The structure is cross shaped and covered in a vaulted iron and glass ceiling, which culminates in a giant glass dome at its centre. When I visited the Galleria Umberto I in May 09, it was undergoing some restoration work in its interior and seemed somewhat deserted.

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When Carlo d'Angiò became king and moved the capital from Palermo to Napoli, he commissioned the construction of Castel Nuovo. It was named "New Castle" to distinguish it from two older castles in Naples that were too small to hold the Angevin court. Castel Nuovo was completed in 1282, but the only surviving element from that period is a chapel (Cappella Palatina) within. The rest of the castle was rebuilt and enlarged over the following few centuries by successive rulers through the 18th century. During the latter part of this period, its defensive importance waned, but it continued to serve at times as a royal residence. The interior is thus filled with lavish halls befitting of kings. One of the more interesting features in its exterior architecture is the Renaissance-period triumphal arch wedged between two of the five rounded towers of the castle. Considered a jewel of early Renaissance architecture, this arco di trionfo was built in 1443 by King Alfonso I to commemorate his triumphal entry into Naples. The castle is nowadays open to the public as a museum.

Inaugurated in 1737 with a performance of Domenico Sarro's Achille in Sciro, Teatro San Carlo is the world's oldest surviving opera house. It was commissioned by King Carlo III di Borbone and designed by the architect, Giovanni Medrano, and for a while became the most prestigious opera house in Europe. The theatre was remodelled in 1816 by the architect Antonio Niccolini after a fire damaged its interior. Teatro San Carlo is located opposite Galleria Umberto I and next to Palazzo Reale.

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Designed in the early 17th century by Domenico Fontana, Palazzo Reale was built for Filippo III, King of Spain, who never actually visited it. In the 18th and 19th centuries, the palace served as one of several residences of the Bourbon kings of Naples and it continued to be embellished by successive rulers, including Joachim Murat, who ruled during the "French Decade" under Napoléon. In the late 19th century, the King of Italy, Umberto I, erected statues of former Neapolitan monarchs in the niches on the façade of the Palazzo, overlooking Piazza del Plebiscito. The palace was damaged during Allied bombing in WWII, but it was later restored to its former glory. The sumptuous halls of Palazzo Reale are now open to the public as a museum.

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Modelled after the Pantheon of Rome, la Basilica di San Francesco di Paola was commissioned by King Ferdinando I upon the restoration of the Bourbon Monarchy, immediately following the end of the "French Decade". The Neoclassical basilica was designed by the Swiss architect, Pietro Bianchi, and completed in 1824 on the site of the convent of San Francesco di Paola (hence the name of the church). The convent had been demolished in 1809 by the French King Gioacchino (Joachim) Murat, brother-in-law of Napoléon, to make room for the grand piazza opposite Palazzo Reale, which was to become the city's main square, then called Largo di Palazzo. The architect, Leopoldo Laperuta, was appointed to design the semicircular colonnade which flanks the basilica. Although the French decade ended and the square's name changed to Piazza del Plebiscito, Gioacchino's plans have survived: the spacious piazza has become one of the most important in the city where public celebrations and take place.

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Part of the monastic complex of Santa Chiara, this Basilica is one of the most important in Naples. It was commissioned by Roberto d’Angiò (Robert of Anjou) and his wife in 1310 and was chosen to hold the tombs of the Angevin dynasty. The spacious basilica was originally designed in a Mediaeval Neapolitan Gothic style, but as was typical later in the 17th century, the basilica was altered to the tastes of the times and was embellished in a richly decorated Baroque design by the architect, Antonio Vaccaro. Sadly, on the 4th June 1943 during WWII, Allied bombings of Naples almost completely destroyed the Basilica di Santa Chiara. The restoration work that ensued after the war brought the basilica back to its original Gothic design, rather than the 17th century Baroque. Among the interesting features in its interior are the Royal tombs and the unique use of rounded arches in a Gothic design. The bell tower was constructed in 1328, but took nearly two centuries to complete, which is the reason why it diverges architecturally from the rest of the basilica, having a more Renaissance look. When visiting Santa Chiara, one must absolutely also visit the cloister and museum in the back (see next tip).

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One of the most magnificent churches in Napoli, Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo also has the most interesting façade in the city. The rusticated pyramidal shaped squares on the façade belonged to the 15th century Palazzo Sanseverino, which was purchased by the Jesuits in 1580 for the construction of their church. Only the façade was retained while the interior was completely rebuilt in a splendid Baroque style. The elaborate Baroque doorway was added in the 17th century to the original portal of the palace. Numerous renowned Neapolitan artists, including Cosimo Fanzago, Lanfranco and Francesco Solimena, contributed to the rich works of art within. The church is named "Nuovo", i.e. "New", to distinguish it from an older Jesuits church in Naples. When the Jesuits were expelled from Naples in 1767, their church was for a while occupied by the Franciscans, but it was later totally abandoned and closed for decades. It was not until 1900 that the Jesuits returned to Naples and to this church.

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Built in 1294 by Carlo II d'Angiò, this church is dedicated to Pope Celestine V, whose real name was Pietro da Morrone. Majella refers to the place where he had lived a hermetic life. In the 17th century, the adjacent monastery and cloister were added. The exterior of the church and its campanile are rather simple and reflect the original Gothic architecture. However, the interior underwent several changes over its history: in the 14th century a gilded wooden ceiling was added, but two centuries later, the ceiling and the Gothic arches were completely covered in Baroque embellishments, which was typical of the time. For some reason, the Baroque additions were completely removed in an early 20th century restoration, which brought the church back to its simple Gothic design. It also uncovered the beautiful gilded ceiling and some 14th century frescoes. The late 18th century Suppression resulted in the closure of the monastery, which became the seat of "il Conservatorio di San Pietro a Majella", a music conservatory, in 1826.