The historical center of Muggia is very compact and easy to walk around, part of it is made of small streets that go uphill toward the castle and they are all nicely decorated with flowers pots etc.
Wear comfortable shoes, the streets are, like all over in Italy, uneven and with cobblestones, not the best for high heels or flip-flop.
The church shown in the main picture is devoted to Santi Giovanni e Paolo, it was built in XIII century and it has a interesting facade and a small bells' tower.
I was there just for a short time, right after dinner and I did not see much, but the part I liked the most was the port, with the long pier extending in the water. There are many fishing boats and, on the side of the pier, along a wall, the fishermen keep their tools, floater, etc very interesting to look at.
There are a number of small bars and cafeterias in the center and it look like they compete for which one offer the best music entertainment, the Friday night I was there there was maybe three or four groups playing in different place, mostly jazz music.
I am a member of an Italian cooking forum called Coquinaria and when I travel anywhere in Italy I always ask local members to give me restaurants advice. This is how I found this family run restaurant in Muggia. It was totally worth the trip from Trieste!!!
Strange enough I found only bad or mediocre reviews online, I cannot figure out how people can eat at "La Marina" and be unhappy... unless they expected a super fancy place.... it is just basic, all about food and no appearance!
From the street side you won't give it much attention as it is just an anonymous doorway with a small sign, the first room is a bar, the kind you would expect to find old guys playing cards, than you walk past it and you are introduced into a wonderful covered terrace with a fantastic view over Trieste gulf!!
During the good season part of the terrace is on open air and if you are smart to book in advance there is where you will be dining, enjoying the view with some candle light.
Their menu is mostly about seafood, with just a few meat dishes. The selection is good, there are cold and hot appetizer from 5 to 10 Euros each, pasta or risotto from 5.50 to 9 Euro, main courses from 7 to 15 Euro that is cheaper than any other fish restaurant I have been in a long time!
Their dishes are from the Trieste tradition, with some Venetian influence.
There is a glass counter with some of the items to look at, just in case you have trouble reading the menu, it is anyway in Italian, English and German.
The bill was 55 Euros in 2012 and included two appetizer, two main courses, two large beer, a quarter liter of prosecco wine and a bottle of water.
I recommend to call to reserve a table, especially during weekends it is very popular among the locals and tend to be full.
Favorite Dish: Cold fish appetizer: it consisted in picked anchovies, swordfish carpaccio, picked octopus, shrimps and a cod fish crostino. The fish was tender and tasty, the flavors perfectly mixed and harmonized.
Cozze alla scottadeo: literary translated as mussels a la "burn your finger", the mussels are sauteed in white whine and a little olive oil, with some lemon and chopped parsley, you are suppose to eat them with your bare hands, exactly burning you fingers :-) It is my all time fish appetizer and it was just perfect! They had a lot of the cooking liquid that, soaked in bread is almost as good as the mussels itself!
Breaded anchovies: they were expressly deep fried with a crispy and tasty breading. You could tell they were made right then, no wait around in the counter involved. Pure deliciousness!
Stewed cuttlefish with polenta: another of my all time favorite, it could have been better only if it was in black ink, like Venician do. Still the cuttlefish was tender, not rubbery at all, the sauce rich and tasty, perfect to eat with the grilled polenta.
In the evening I believe cars are the only way to reach Muggia from Trieste, you take the elevated road and follow the directions, Muggia is well signaled. There are some parking lot in the center, the main public one, right at the port, is free from 8pm to 8am, the rest of the day the cost is about 1€ each hour.
By boat from Trieste
If you have spare daytime during your stay in Trieste, the best way to reach Muggia is by boat. There is a regular service called "Delfino Verde" departing from the base of molo Bersaglieri, the single trip cost 3.7€, 6.9€ roundtrip. It is quiet frequent but unfortunately it stop running around 8pm.
Timetable and costs here Delfino Verde. it is only in Italian anyway Feriale mean Monday to Saturday, Festivo mean Sunday and Public Holidays.
During the day there are also some regular buses from Trieste to Muggia but I would for sure choose the boat trip instead as it is much more scenic.
If you walk through the narrow streets of the centre of Muggia you'll notice that there a re a lot of cats walking around, lying on the sun and playing. I think they're attracted by the nearby port and the fish that's there. But you'll also notice that at every door entrance and window there are some plastic bottles filled wth water. Weird isn't it?
Wel I was told that if you put a couple of bottle of water smewhere the cats will be afraid of them and will not come closer...and - as a cnseqence - they will not pee just outside the door!