All'Agricoltore: A chic, intimate restaurant
I ate at this "luxury" restaurant on 15 December 2008, when I attended the Christmas dinner organized by the Rotaract club of Trieste. Otherwise, I think I would have never known about it.
The restaurant lies in the Servola quarter, rather outside of Trieste, an area with old houses and narrow streets. Therefore, the restaurant has no parking area, which is a big issue if 20 or more cars arrive on the same evening, as it was the case that time.
The environment is very chic: the waiters take your coat off and serve you with an extreme kindness. And what about the menu! Read just below what we had that evening.
The restaurant is open every days, except Mondays, from 6 pm to 1 am. On Sundays, it is open from 12 am to 2.30 pm and from 7 to 12 pm.
Favorite Dish: The menu was written in a far too elaborate Italian, even for a language-lover like me. Anyway, I'll try to recall and, more difficult, explain in English, what we had for dinner.
Wine, which I didn't drink, and some fried "stuff" with too much salt!
Paccheri (a kind of pasta, just google to see what they look) with boar meat sauce over a broccoli cream
Veal fillet sprinkled with pink pepper, with potatoes and spinach
Pear cake with cointreau and cream
Water, wine and "spumante"
My favourite dishes were the pasta and the cake.
Al Britannia: Local traditional Cuisine
The area where is this restaurant is small and traditional of the city outskirts which has become part of the even smaller history of Italian breadmaking. In fact it was here, in the last century, that the traditions of the legendary pancogole began, with young and old women alike coming down onto the streets of Trieste to sell large loaves that have been cooked a few hours earlier within their own four walls. Today, of course, the "pancogole" (a dialectal term that might loosely be translated as "bakers" although this is not the exact meaning.) no longer exist, but respecting traditions the restaurant has stood here, in the heart of Servola since 1986. In actual fact this restaurant bakes it own, very healthy, bread in house.
Favorite Dish: The menu, which is displayed in 5 languages, is based on meat dishes, (there is pasta al ragù di puledro =young horse or the excellent pasta squares.) and there is a decent wine list, with mostly Friulian labels. The atmosphere is quiet and peaceful, with a friendly ambiance. There is seating for 50 inside and another forty on the beautiful floral terrace. The restaurant is also featured in the Academy Guide to Italian Cuisine. The best place to try and rediscover the tastes of traditional home cooking with a touch of fantasy which does not spoil it in the least.
- Food and Dining
Bar Udine: local food for few euro!
Bar Udine is a bar providing also a restaurant service. You can eat a wide range of dishes, including typical recipes of the region and Slav cuisines, such as jota (a soup of Trieste with sausages, I think; I've never eaten it), gulash (the typical Hungarian stew) or Polish-like cabbage (never eaten, either).
The bar re-opened in 2010 after being closed for renovation. I was there in January 2010 for the first time after I left Trieste around January 2009, and it does look better. However, the bad side is that the married couple who used to run the local has retired (they were both over 70 years old), making the bar a bit more "anonymous". The waiter, Sergio, was very nice: he would talk and laugh with everyone. His wife Graziella was the cashier. I felt a bit confused when I went in and didn't see either of them. Anyway, I do still recommend you'd go to Bar Udine!
Favorite Dish: I particularly like some dishes offered in Bar Udine:
1) "rigatoni alla burina": pasta with minced sausage, tomato sauce and a drop of cream. They are very tasty but rather heavy;
2) "fusilli alla mediterranea": cold pasta with little mozzarellas, tomatos, olives: very refreshing;
3) "salsicce friulane con patatine": Friulan sausages with chips;
4) go and taste...
Many dishes (especially pasta) have original names and you are unlikely to guess what they consist of unless you ask the waiter. When I used to have lunch there during my university years, only Erika, the waitress, spoke an acceptable English. I don't know if the new waiters also do, anyway Erika is still there and you will be able to talk to her.
Kapuziner Keller: Bayern in Trieste
Kapuziner is a Bavarian restaurant in the very centre of Trieste. I ate there with two friends in January 2007 and we enjoyed it very much.
Although the outside appearance can make a negative impression, inside you will find a very comfortable and characteristic atmosphere. Menus are written in Italian and German and you can have many Bavarian dishes.
The only con was the price, which proved relatively high compared to the other restaurants where I had eaten previously.
We were there again in February 2008 to have a drink with other people of our University the prices amazed me more than the first time! I paid 3.30 euro for a glass of orangeade (0.5 litre). I had asked for a middle glass (0.3 l) but the waiter may not have heard me since the music was quite loud. I felt quite uncomfortable this time because it was rather hot inside.
I had dinner there again on 1st October 2008. I had a Ljubljanska (the typical Slovenian cutlet with ham and cheese inside) with pommes frites and an orangeade. I warmly recommend you'd try it: it is good and quite easily digestible. On the other hand, it is not a Bavarian dish.
Favorite Dish: I had the following dinner in 2007:
- frankfurters with stuffling of cheese and wrapped in bacon, with pommes frites (EUR 7.20);
- an orangeade (EUR 1.30);
- a typical cake called "frastagliata del Kaiser", in German Kaiserschmarrn, a kind of crêpe suzette with raisins and pine-seeds (EUR 3.80).
The cover cost EUR 1.30, so I paid EUR 14.60.
The prices may have grown.
On 1st October 2008 I spent 11-12 euro for the Ljubljanska and the orangeade.
Caffè Tommaseo: Now that is what I call fusion
I know I am going to get shot down in flames for this, but in my humble opinion it is only the italians who make great coffee on a consistent basis. Trieste is extremely interesting in that it has a number of ver historic coffeehouse that stem from it's time as a major pot of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Coffee houses here have more just a whiff of Vienna about them.
This centrally located cafe is one of the best. Originally built in 1830 it has been lovingly restored. Belgian mirror, delicious wood (and cakes to be fair) and original artworks beneath a ceiling that was just Oh so right for this sort of place.
It would be surprising if the coffee did not taste fantastic here - and it lived up to it's surroundings admirably. Great place.
Pastificio Mariabologna.: Food for your pic nic.
Pastificio Mariabologna is a posh take-away, but the prices here are good.
Here you could buy various kinds of handmade pasta (noddles); ravioli, pasticcio and other Italian first courses. Then you could have fish or meat and vegetables.
Suggestion: after you have ordered you can ask the girls to heat your food, so that when you're home it's ready to eat.
Favorite Dish: I had patate in tecia that is mashed potatoes with meat; stuffed artichockes and meat. This lunch was very good.
- Food and Dining
Pizzeria Nonna Rosa: A traditional pizzeria and restaurant
Pizzeria Nonna Rosa ("Granny Rose Pizzeria") is a traditional, still elegant pizzeria. They serve a wide range of pizzas, from the most known ones like pizza Margherita to some local pizzas. They also work as a restaurant, but beware that other dishes than pizzas cost more. For example, you can have a pizza for as little as 3.50 euro, while the cheapest pastas cost at least 6 euro.
I had dinner quite often at "Nonna Rosa" from 2007 to 2009, because it lied near the flat where I lived and because it was cheap but nice. It was not so cheap as %Pizzeria Number One (in via del Toro, another side street of the viale: see tip for this pizzeria), but it gave me a better impression of order and cleanliness.
Favorite Dish: The last time I had dinner there, I wanted to taste pizza "Triestina", with pore mushrooms, salami, ham, frankfurter and small artichokes. It was very good, though also rather expensive (7.50 euro).
Peperino: A good, but expensive, pizzeria
I ate at this pizzeria on 31st August 2008. It is located in modern premises, which makes it a bit different from other "classical" Neapolitan pizzerias in Trieste.
Beside the usual pizzas, whose range is not so wide as elsewhere, you can have a revolting Nutella pizza, which some people incredibly like, such as my friend Luca who took me there. If you don't want to try the Nutella pizza, you can have other, but as heavy, desserts.
Favorite Dish: Both Luca and I had a pizza margherita for 5 euro (quite expensive; you can have one for 3-3.50 euro in some pizzerias) and a coke for 2.50 euro. The service (coperto) costs 1.50 euro.
In addition, Luca had this awful Nutella pizza. Luckily, he was wise enough as to remove the tons of liquid Nutella that had been put over the pizza, not only inside. The waiters must have wondered why one should have a Nutella pizza and then remove most of the Nutella...
Enoteca Nanut: wine and courtesy
A young and enthusiastic guy, Luca Nanut, manages this lovely place in the hearth of Trieste's Old Town. It offers the best of the local tradition and, being very fond of jazz, there is always a jazz musin background. The place was born as wine testing bar, so the choice of wines is very huge. Good for a quick lunch but also for a lovely longer romantic dinner. They speak English and French.
Opening times: 10.30 - 14.00 / 18.00 - 24.00. Sun and Mod closed
Favorite Dish: 10.30 - 14.00 / 18.00 - 24.00. Domenica e lunedì chiuso
- Road Trip
- Wine Tasting
- Food and Dining
Pizzeria 2001: The pizzeria of the third millennium
I first had dinner at this pizzeria in November 2008 with young people of the Trieste Rotaract Club. Apparently, it's a normal pizzeria, but they prepare some pizzas that I had never seen elsewhere. Their speciality is probably pizza con salsicce e cime di rapa ("pizza with sausages and broccoli").
Favorite Dish: I had a pizza with ricotta and quite liked it.
Pizzeria-ristorante Piedigrotta: Close to the theatre
When my friend Luca wanted me to try Pizzeria Piedigrotta, where he had eaten with other friends, I thought it was the most expensive pizzeria in Trieste. As I saw the prices at the entrance, I didn't even want to go inside!
However, we had dinner at this pizzeria again in November 2008 with our Sicilian flatmate and his parents, and I realized it was not that expensive, after all...
The prices are a bit higher than at other pizzerias because of the location: on the pedestrian viale XX settembre and close to the Rossetti theatre.
Favorite Dish: A margherita costs four euro, while a pizza with mozzarella di bufala (buffalo mozzarella) costs seven euro. You can have a coca cola for two euro and you have to pay one euro for the cover.
Trattoria e Pizzeria "Fratelli La Bufala": The pizzeria of the emigrants
This pizzeria belongs to a worldwide chain of pizzerias run by emigrants. A panel inside it shows all the locations in Italia and abroad where there is one.
I ate there with my friends in February 2007. We didn't want to go to our usual pizzeria "Number one" (see tip) because we had met at our university, which lies a bit far away, but we hesitated quite a long time because it was crowded and expensive. However, in the end we went in and had dinner (it was already 9.30 pm, I think).
The atmosphere was good and kind of chic, so different from "Number one". This affected the price: the cheapest pizzas cost 6 euro and an orangeade 3 euro.
I went again to this pizzeria in July 2008 with my friend Luca. He didn't want to go to one of our usual pizzerias, where we spend around 7 euro for a pizza margherita and a coke. Since it was already 8 pm and we were close to Pizzeria "La Bufala", we had dinner there. The prices were the same as in 2007 and I noticed that they offer a very limited range of pizzas. We both had a margherita for 6 euro and a coke for 3 euro plus one euro for the service. Anyway, we really liked them. Afterwards, Luca wanted to take a dessert. All desserts cost 4.50 euro, which was quite a lot to me. After thinking of what cake we could have, we decided to go for an ice-cream instead and to save up 7 euro.
Favorite Dish: Pizza, what else?
Gaudemus: Fresh & raw fish
Local style, small, elegant without snobbing, away from the crowd. In few words this is all what you need to know about this restaurant located in Sistiana, 20 minutes from Trieste downtown.
Favorite Dish: Fish, all kind of fish ... try the baccala' mantecato for a very special dish.
And do not forget to taste the very best white wines of the area: Venica Sauvignon & Podversic Kaplija Bianco.
- Wine Tasting
- Food and Dining
Ristorante Tokyo: Craving for Sushi?
If you want to take a break from spaghetti and gelati, or craving good sushi, then head straight to Ristorante Tokyo. Tucked away from the bar buzz of Viale Settembre, it offers warm and relaxed ambience popular with the locals. Fresh sashimi, sushi and teppanyaki are the main players on the menu, as well as Asahi beer and vials of saki. You can sit on one of the stools (if there's room!) in front of the hibachi and watch your food being prepared by a Teppanyaki chef. It helps if you know some Italian as the staff speak very little English.
Favorite Dish: Nabe Udon -- a steaming bowl of chunky udon noodles with pieces of mixed seafood. (6.50EURO)
- Food and Dining
Madison: good ice-creams but not only!
This bar offers a wide range of things: many ice-cream flavours, several varieties of tea and tisanes, yogurts and, of course, coffee.
The waiters and waitresses are young and kind, so this is a place to recommend if you want to drink something or to eat an ice-cream with your friends or family. Furthermore, it is located in the pedestrian viale XX settembre, so you can go there before or after shopping or watching a film.
Favorite Dish: The last time I went there (on 29th March 2007), I was with a friend from university and both of us tried the yogurt ice-cream which they present as one of their specialities. I liked it very much.