Saint Anthon and the Canal Grande, Trieste
Much smaller than its homonym in Venezia, it is nevertheless very suggestive. The streets along it are reserved for pedestrians, which lets you enjoy it more.
Canal Grande ("Big Channel") was digged before 1756 to enable sailing ships to load and unload inside the city. Today, only small ships can cross it, giving it a picturesque touch.
Some beautiful and important buildings surround the channel, namely the churches of Sant'Antonio Nuovo (Catholic) and San Spiridione (Serb Orthodox), as well as palazzo Gopcevich, seat of many temporary exhibitions, the so-called grattacielo rosso ("red skyscraper") and, opposite to them, the palazzo Carciotti. These palaces produce a wonderful reflection on the water.
This picture epitomises Trieste for me. It shows a splendid church, water and palatial buildings. Pretty much what the town is all about.
The church happens to be the brainchild of Nobile, though his 1808 design wasn't finished until 1842. Sant' Antonio Nuovo is its name and, once upon a time, it used to have a Grand Canal frontage, long since filled in but at least there's still a fountain.
The fresco in the apse, altar pieces and paintings by local artists are worth a look if you get inside past the statues by Bosca.
Sant'Antonio Nuovo ("Saint Anthon new") is the largest church of Trieste. It is dedicated to Saint Anthon Thaumaturge and was built according to a project by Pietro Nobile in 1825-49 on the same place where already existed a church with that name, therefore it's called "nuovo".
It is built in neoclassic style, with a Ionic pronaos, a large pediment and, at the top, six statues portraying the protectors of the city.
Palazzo Gopcevich is the most important civil building on the Canal Grande. It was built by Giovanni Berlam in 1850 and bears the name of its first owner, who was a dealer of Serb origin. He wanted to commemorate with statues the heroes who led to the independence of Srbija from the Ottoman empire.
The second building in these photos is the "red skyscraper". I don't know if it is only famous for its colour or also for some other reason. And last, you see a large building hosting a bank and a shop. I don't know anything about it but I liked it.
Here are shown the paintings of the high altar and of some of the lateral altars. I like them very much and I was a little amazed when I saw them in their brightness, since I remember that in the tip about Sant'Antonio Nuovo I created some months ago, I had written that "the inside is rather bare". Well, no, it isn't bare, it is just neoclassic. The neoclassic style is the style of beauty meant as harmony and balance (ancient Greek concepts), therefore neoclassic churches haven't got so many windows as the Gothic nor so many sculptures as the baroque ones.
The Church of San Antonio Nuovo is situated at the Northern end of the Canal Grande. This amazing church, with water and fountain in front of it was designed byPietro Noble. The interior is worth to visit as well.
The inside of Sant'Antonio Nuovo has a beautiful architecture, full of arches and domes, as you can see here. I enjoyed to photograph all these harmonious, typically neoclassic curves. The first and the last pictures were originally two or three photos that I have stitched, so that one sees the abse and the nave in their whole height.
Palazzo Carciotti is located along the shores (called rive) and it is the most sumptuous neoclassic palace in Trieste. Greek merchant Demetrio Carciotti had it built in 1799-1805 on a project by Matteo Pertsch.
On the façade you can see a balustrade with six statues by Antonio Bosa, disciple of famous Venetian sculptor Antonio Canova.
The huge church of St. Antonio Thaumaturgo is situated at the northern end of the Canale Grande. Its neo-classical front facade and the cupola represents one of the emblems of the town. You cannot miss it when strolling around because it can be seen literaly from the any part of the town.
The Palazzo Gopcevich, located at the end of the Canale Grande, is a magnificent building that is frequently overlooked because of the imposing St. Anthon at the end of the Canale. It was constructed in the 19th century in the neo-Renaissance style and was ordered as part of Maria Theresa's revitalization of the central area. Today, the Palazzo Gopcevich is used more as an exhibition space than any sort of architectural temple. Art and other such shows are frequently held here (so check with the Comune as to what is on when you visit). Even if nothing is on, or it isn't to your taste, there is still quite a lot of joy that comes from marvelling at the pink-and-white façade.
The Piazza Ponterosso is the Square at the end of the Canale Grande and contains a bit of joy for Joyce fans. At number 3 lies the house of Joyce and his wife Nora, who stayed in Trieste from 1904 to 1915 and again in 1919-20. In the centre of Piazza Ponterosso you'll also find, from time to time, a traditional fruit market. The seat of the Università popolare is located here, and Joyce occasionally held lectures in its building.
In the centre of the Piazza you will find an interesting fountain, known as the Fontana del Giovannin del Ponterosso. It was built in 1753 on the orders of Giovanni Mazzoleni and was only completed in its current form in 1761 with the finishing touches added by the German Giovanni Carlo Wagner. The name of Giovannin comes from the fact that the water is transported from the San Giovanni acqueduct. It cascades from the little Giovannin's feet into three conches (although, as you can see in the picture, the water isn't always turned on).
The Piazza Ponterosso is also known for the violent clashes that erupted here after the assassination of King Umberto I of Savoy, which occurred in Monza on 29 July 1900.
The Church of Sant'Antonio Nuovo is built in obvious Neo-Classical style and it dominates the view of anyone looking down the Canale Grande. Indeed, its large columns and blue dome make it easy to mistake this place of worship for a theatre or some other sort of cultural exhibition place. Sant'Antonio Nuovo was designed by Pietro Nobile and constructed between 1827 and 1842. The Church was finally consacracted in 1849, almost 80 years after the city fathers agreed on the construction of a church dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua in order to deal with the rapidly rising number of faithful within the city limits of Trieste.
Borgo Teresiano is the central part of the city of Trieste, and its real heart is Canale Grande. A number of many important city palaces can be seen in these area; massive Palazzo Carciotti, Palazzo Gopcevich, Museo Civico, and beautiful but underrated Piazza Ponterosso.
The Canale Grande is not, in fact, the centre of Trieste, although it may seem that way if you're going towards the historic centre from the train station. The Canale Grande is has a few fishing boats, but it is flanked primarily by restaurants and cafés now. The area, however, is great for exploring some of the smaller monuments of Trieste. The Serbian Orthodox Church is close to the Canale Grande, while the Greek Orthodox Church is on the waterfront near the entrance to the Canale. The end of the Canale is just opposite the city theatre, an impressive domed construction that dominates the area of the Canale.
James Joyce, the famous Irish author of "Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man" and "Ullyses" once lived in the city of Trieste and his time there influenced, however subtlely, his works. As a tribute to the acclaimed author, the city of Trieste has erected a statue of Joyce near the Canale Grande. Literary buffs will be delighted!