San Paolo Fuori le Mura, Rome

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Basilica San Paolo Fuori Mura is probably the finest church of Rome, built over the tomb of St. Paul who was also known as the Apostle of the People. The first church over his tomb was built the the Emperor Constantine and later in the 4th century much larger basilica was built, begun by Theodosius and then around mid of 5th century restored and decorated by Placidus. The basilica was destroyed in fire in 1823 and rebuilt again in 1854 by Pope Pius IX.
The magnificent four sided portico suggests a typical Roman styled basilica, and in its center stands the statue of St. Paul. The mosaic facade glitters in gold and bright colours. The bronze door, in the portico, from 1930 is work of Antonio Maraini.

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On a rainy winter day I took the opportunity to visit this major basilica which I had not seen during my previous stays in Rome. I knew that the basilica of St Paul had been entirely rebuilt after the fire of 1823, and thus expected to see a somewhat banal remake, during the 19th century, of the original church. I was mistaken and much amazed when I discovered this architectural wonder.

I entered by the large transept at the Via Ostensie and already in this part of the Basilica I got lost in admiration looking up at the coffered ceiling with his blazons of the popes.

When I arrived in the middle of the transept I could discover in the darkness the immense nave divided into five aisles by 80 imposing monolithic columns made of granite.
The Basilica of Saint-Paul is imposing by the force of its proportions and the relative simplicity of its decoration. It preserved the plans of a Roman Empire basilica since it was built on order of the emperor Constantine in the 4th century.

The frontage is preceded by a large atrium surrounded by colonnades. This part dates from the 20th C. Works are going on so that the frontage is only partially visible from Viale di San Paolo.

The cloister, on the right of the transept, is remarkable by the elegance of the small columns of various forms decorated with pieces of marble and gildings.

Open 7 - 18 h. Free entrance.

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Saul of Tarsus was an educated Jew, and a Roman citizen, who vigorously persecuted the early Christians. Legend has it that he had a strange vision on the road to Damascus, where an angel of the Lord appeared to him and asked why he was persecuting them. He converted, and virtually took over the new Christian movement. With his education, and freedom to travel, he played a key role in organizing the Christian churches. After that, Christianity was no longer an off-shoot of Judaism, but a brand new faith. Saul changed his name to Paul.

He was beheaded under the Emperor Nero, about 65-70 AD; as a Roman citizen, he couldn't be crucified (that was for non-Romans and slaves). As was the custom, it took place outside the city walls. In the early 4th century, under the Christian Emperor Constantine, the execution site was chosen for a basilica in honor of St Paul. Pope Sylvester consecrated it in 324. Later expansions occured over the centuries.

A fire in 1823 destroyed the basilica, but it was carefully restored. The portico, with 128 columns, was added in 1928. The circular portraits of the Popes go all around the interior. It is said that when the last one is filled in, and that last Pope dies, then the world will end (I can't remember how many are left).

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If the basilica is so sumptuous, and this since the 4th c., it is by no doubt because the Apostle Paul, in fact the number two of the Church, is buried here.
It was under Nero, around 64, that the decapitated Apostle Paul - he had this privilege being a Roman citizen - was buried along the Via Ostiense leading to the port of Ostia.
According to the uses in Rome people were buried along the roads leaving the city; the best known example to-day being the tombs along the Via Appia Antica.

Presently the shrine of St Paul is located at the junction of the nave and transept under the "ciborium". The pilgrims go down there by a double staircase. The tomb of the Apostle Paul is hidden behind a grid under a marble flagstone from the 4th c.
A reproduction of this marble flagstone is visible with the details in the small museum which is next to the sacristy.
The stone on which is written “PAULO APOSTOLIMART” is about 2,10 x 1,30 m and placed 4,50 m above the actual sarcophagus of the Saint. The largest hole in the stone is used to descend a censer in the tomb. By the other two smaller holes pilgrims would introduce objects in the tomb which were then kept for worship.
Carbon dating tests (June 2009) on bone fragments found inside the sarcophagus confirmed that they date from the first or second century.

Interesting are also the wooden statues from the 14th c. which decorate the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament on the left of the apse.

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This (basilica actually) is a little way out of the centre of Rome, but well worth the effort.

It is the 2nd largest Basilica in Rome and features some wonderful art.

Many of the colums in the cloister areas are wonderfully detailed as well.

An interesting point is the head portraits of all the popes at the top or the walls.

About 2 Km away on the Via Ostiense rises the Basilica St. Paul outside the walls, built over the burial place of the Apostle of the Gentiles and consecrated in 324. The building of the first place of worship over St. Paul's tomb has been attributed to the Emperor Constantine. A larger basilica was erected by the Emperors Valentiniano II, Theodosius and Arcadius. Destroyed by fire in 1823, it was rebuilt on the same foundations and consecrated by Pope Pius IX.

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The Basilica of St. Paul origins go back to the time of Constantine, and is believed to have been erected over the tomb of St. Paul - a very controversial character - see below for more.

The basilica fell victim to fire in 1823 and was subsequently rebuilt. It is the second-largest church in Rome after St. Peter's. Its windows are actually translucent alabaster and are very impressive. With its forest of single-file columns and mosaic medallions (portraits of the various popes), this is one of the most streamlined and elegantly decorated churches in Rome.

Its most important treasure is a 12th-century candelabra by Vassalletto, who's also responsible for the remarkable cloisters, containing twisted pairs of columns enclosing a rose garden. Also interesting is a copy of the tombstone that has been faithfully recreated including holes where people tried to get into the grave.

For a keepsake, Benedictine monks and students sell souvenirs, rosaries, and bottles of Benedictine every day except Sunday and religious holidays.

Controversial bit - St Paul (aka Saul of Tarsus) in theory never met Jesus and was a rampant Christian killer for quite some time (christianity was illegal back then and he reported suspected christians to the authorities). Whilst on the road to Damascus he had a 'vision of light' in which the spirit of Jesus spoke with Saul and turned him from the Dark Side. More controversial bit - One school of though is that Saul was really a charismatic leader who created the Catholic church based on a myth about a roving Rabbi called Jesus.

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Fuori le mura means ouside the wall. It's a bit far from the centre of Rome, but it is worth visiting this basilica, just take the metro. It hosts the ramains of S. Paolo.

Address
Via Ostiense, 186

Metro: Basilica S. Paolo (line B).