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On a rainy winter day I took the opportunity to visit this major basilica which I had not seen during my previous stays in Rome. I knew that the basilica of St Paul had been entirely rebuilt after the fire of 1823, and thus expected to see a somewhat banal remake, during the 19th century, of the original church. I was mistaken and much amazed when I discovered this architectural wonder.
I entered by the large transept at the Via Ostensie and already in this part of the Basilica I got lost in admiration looking up at the coffered ceiling with his blazons of the popes.
When I arrived in the middle of the transept I could discover in the darkness the immense nave divided into five aisles by 80 imposing monolithic columns made of granite.
The Basilica of Saint-Paul is imposing by the force of its proportions and the relative simplicity of its decoration. It preserved the plans of a Roman Empire basilica since it was built on order of the emperor Constantine in the 4th century.
The frontage is preceded by a large atrium surrounded by colonnades. This part dates from the 20th C. Works are going on so that the frontage is only partially visible from Viale di San Paolo.
The cloister, on the right of the transept, is remarkable by the elegance of the small columns of various forms decorated with pieces of marble and gildings.
Open 7 - 18 h. Free entrance. Address: Via Ostiense 190Directions: The Basilica is at only 200 m from the metro B station "Basilica S. Paolo".
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If the basilica is so sumptuous, and this since the 4th c., it is by no doubt because the Apostle Paul, in fact the number two of the Church, is buried here.
It was under Nero, around 64, that the decapitated Apostle Paul - he had this privilege being a Roman citizen - was buried along the Via Ostiense leading to the port of Ostia.
According to the uses in Rome people were buried along the roads leaving the city; the best known example to-day being the tombs along the Via Appia Antica.
Presently the shrine of St Paul is located at the junction of the nave and transept under the "ciborium". The pilgrims go down there by a double staircase. The tomb of the Apostle Paul is hidden behind a grid under a marble flagstone from the 4th c.
A reproduction of this marble flagstone is visible with the details in the small museum which is next to the sacristy.
The stone on which is written “PAULO APOSTOLIMART” is about 2,10 x 1,30 m and placed 4,50 m above the actual sarcophagus of the Saint. The largest hole in the stone is used to descend a censer in the tomb. By the other two smaller holes pilgrims would introduce objects in the tomb which were then kept for worship.
Carbon dating tests (June 2009) on bone fragments found inside the sarcophagus confirmed that they date from the first or second century.
Interesting are also the wooden statues from the 14th c. which decorate the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament on the left of the apse.
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It is erected in IVth century by Emperor Constantine. Under the church laid the tomb of ST Paul--the Apostle of Gentiles. Around the 15th and 16th July 1823, there was a huge fire that destroyed the church and its contents. Very few items such as the cloisters of the adjacent Benedictine abbey, survived the fire. When Pope Leo XII became the Pope, he reconstructed it to its glory. I love this church as it is a painting by itself with pictures "imprinted" into the bricks. My heart just filled with joy when I saw the vibrant colours. Such artwork is a miracle and the people involved in making it possible must have taken great pride in what they are doing. I like the medalions that depicted each individual Pope. Look out for the Easter Candlestick which also survived the fire. It is made of marble and created to hold the Easter Candle, the symbol of Christ as the "light of the world". The whole church is just an artwork. Unique! Fantastico! Address: Via OstienseDirections: Alight at San Paolo metro station.
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 by Ailis |
After his execution, St. Paul was buried outside the city of Rome along the road to Ostia. An early shrine was replaced by a church commissioned by Emperor Constantine in 324, and rebuilt and restored by multiple popes over the next 1000 years. In 1823, large parts of the basilica were destroyed by a major fire and the following year Pope Leo XII began a major restoration which lasted into the 20th Century. The only remaining features of the ancient church are the interior portion of the apse, mosaics, and the de Cambio 13th Century tabernacle of the confession.
The included esterior images include the 19th Century statue of St. Paul by Giuseppe Obici with the inscription "To the preacher of truth, the teacher of nations". The facade is covered with mosaics in the Byzantine style, made with gold glass. They were created in the Vatican workshops in the mid-19th Century. From the top, Christ is seated on his throne with a hand raised in blessing and with images of Sts. Peter and Paul on either side. Just below is the Lamb of God on the Mountain of Paradise from which 4 rivers flow symbolizing the gospels. Twelve sheep symbolizing the Apostles drink from the rivers. Between the windows are statues of four major prophets -- Isaiah, Jeremiah, Daniel and Ezekiel.
The center bronze door is inlaid with silver and depicts scenes from the lives of St Peter and St. Paul. Images of St. Paul include his conversion, his teaching, his welcome in Rome, and his martyrdom by beheading. On the far right is the Holy Door with 55 panels depicting scenes from the lives of the apostles, the old and new testament.
The interior is so complex as to defy description in 2047 characters. Features include the triumphal arch modelled after ancient Roman arches, mosaics and statues of popes, saints, and martyrs, a 5 foot 12th Century candlestick depicting Christs's passion, death and resurrection, and a 19th Century altar. Inside the altar is a perpetual red light to indicate the burial place of St. Paul. Leave a Comment
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The Basilica of St. Paul origins go back to the time of Constantine, and is believed to have been erected over the tomb of St. Paul - a very controversial character - see below for more.
The basilica fell victim to fire in 1823 and was subsequently rebuilt. It is the second-largest church in Rome after St. Peter's. Its windows are actually translucent alabaster and are very impressive. With its forest of single-file columns and mosaic medallions (portraits of the various popes), this is one of the most streamlined and elegantly decorated churches in Rome.
Its most important treasure is a 12th-century candelabra by Vassalletto, who's also responsible for the remarkable cloisters, containing twisted pairs of columns enclosing a rose garden. Also interesting is a copy of the tombstone that has been faithfully recreated including holes where people tried to get into the grave.
For a keepsake, Benedictine monks and students sell souvenirs, rosaries, and bottles of Benedictine every day except Sunday and religious holidays.
Controversial bit - St Paul (aka Saul of Tarsus) in theory never met Jesus and was a rampant Christian killer for quite some time (christianity was illegal back then and he reported suspected christians to the authorities). Whilst on the road to Damascus he had a 'vision of light' in which the spirit of Jesus spoke with Saul and turned him from the Dark Side. More controversial bit - One school of though is that Saul was really a charismatic leader who created the Catholic church based on a myth about a roving Rabbi called Jesus. Leave a Comment
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 San Paolo by Frisbeeace
San Paolo is 2 km away on the Via Ostiense, built over the burial place of the Apostle of the Gentiles and consecrated in 324. The building of the first place of worship over St. Paul's tomb has been attributed to the Emperor Constantine. A larger basilica was erected by the Emperors Valentiniano II, Theodosius and Arcadius. Destroyed by fire in 1823, it was rebuilt on the same foundations and consecrated by Pope Pius IX.
Tip: the snack bar and toilettes for pilgrims are neat and provide a good rest after the visit. Leave a Comment
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This (basilica actually) is a little way out of the centre of Rome, but well worth the effort.
It is the 2nd largest Basilica in Rome and features some wonderful art.
Many of the colums in the cloister areas are wonderfully detailed as well.
An interesting point is the head portraits of all the popes at the top or the walls. Directions: Take metro line "B" to S.Paolo, and its a very easy walk
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 interior, San Paolo fuori
le Mura by mrclay2000Leave a Comment
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 courtyard, San Paolo
fuori le Mura by mrclay2000Leave a Comment Directions: south of Rome, long subway ride
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