Trastevere- Rome, Italy - VirtualTourist.com

Once very much a working class area of the city, shabby and more than a little seedy, a place tourists ventured into briefly,musicians to pay homage to St Cecilia who is buried in the church of her name at one end of the quarter, or maybe to see the mosaics in the Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, take a few "atmosphere shots" of washing flapping on lines stretched between peeling ochre-painted buildings or a Sunday morning foray into the flea market at Porte Portese - Trastevere these days has become a trendy spot, as popular with bohemian expats and young professional families as it is still the home of families who have lived here for generations.

You need to cross the Tiber to get here - what better way than to walk across the ancient bridges that connect the two banks of the river at Isola Tiberia? Ponte Fabricio on the Centro Storico side of the island is the oldest bridge in the city, Ponte Cestio isn't much younger - it was built in 46AD. Alternatively, there's the pedestrian Ponte Sisio near Campo de' Fiori, or you could catch Tram No 8 and get off at the first stop once you've crossed the river.

Trastevere's history has been one of a long slide down and a recent trend up in its desirability as a place to live. The area "across the Tiber" (the meaning of Trastevere) was taken up by noble families in early times - Julius Caesar lived here - and kept his mistress Cleopatra here too. Most of the city's Jews lived here before they were forced into the ghetto in 1555. The 19th century urban renewal of much of the city passed it by and, more than anywhere else, the area retains the look and feel of mediaeval Rome.

Very popular at night for the restaurants and bars that can be found everywhere, a walk through the quarter in the daytime reveals lovely quiet corners, greenery tumbling over russet and ochre walls, a daily life of children playing and neighbors chatting. We spent time here with an Australian friend who now calls Trastevere her home, complete with a plant-filled garden behind a high wall, local shops and local restaurants where familiar faces bring forth smiles and questions about the bambini and a delicious lunch was ordered after a long discussion with the waiter without recourse to the menu. No "sightseeing ", no shopping - though there are opportunities for both, just a few hours spent doing what Romans have always done so well - enjoying the moment.

Trastevere, Rome

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Trastevere, Rome

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