Trastevere, Rome

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Ponte Rotto is the bridge that connects Trastevere and Forum Boarium on river Tiber. It’s an arch bridge made of stone at 142 BC and had originally 7 spans although in our days you can only see the only one that had left (pics 1-2) and that’s why it’s called ponte rotto (broken bridge in Italian).

It’s the oldest roman stone bridge of the city (the ancient Pons Aemilius) replacing a wooden one on the same spot. Of course, we couldn’t really spend much time on this site, we couldn’t even walk over this bridge so we just took a picture of our shadows on the bridge (pic 3) :)

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On our way out of Trastevere we passed from the church San Grisogono(pic 1). It has a nice bell tower that dates back from 12th century although under the church was an older one (probably from 8th century). Pietro Cavalini decorated the interior but what was impressive were the columns (probably from ancient temples) and the mosaic at the floor.

We crossed the street and we saw Torre degli Anguilara(pic 2), an old tower from medieval era, the only one that can be seen today among the numerous towers that were built. It was part of a house-fortress that belonged to a prominent family of 14th century. The building was bought by the City of Rome in 1887 and it housed a workshop for painted glasses and later turned into hall for lectures on works of Dante Alighieri.

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We spend a day in Trastevere, a picturesque old district of Rome at the other side of Tiber with a maze of alleys full of old churches, small stores and a lot of restaurants.

We crossed ponte Sisto, an old bridge(pic 1) that was built in 1474 by Sisto IV to connect Trastevere with Rome. At piazza Trilusa we got lost in the small alleys but we saw many interesting buildings.

First we saw (at 23 via Santa Dorothea) the Romanesque church Santa Dorothea(pic 2) that was rebuilt in the 18th century and has a nice baroque facade, and it is dedicated to the virgin martyr St Dorothy(4th century).

A few steps away is located Santa Maria della Scala (pic 3)that was at the end of 16th century and although boring outside it houses some nice paintings like the Beheading of St John(by G.VHonthorst) and Death of the Virgin(by C.Saraceni). In 19th century the church was used as a hospital for Garibalid’s soldiers that got wounded from the fights against the French.

Unfortunately, most of the churches in Trastevere were closed, the same happened with Sant’Egidio church(pic 4). It was built in 1632 and it is dedicated to St.Giles, a hermit who died in 720. It’s also dedicated to Our Lady of Carmel and that’s why given to the Discalced Carmelites that had an adjacent convent for the poor. Now, it is a small museum of folk art but it was closed during our visit too :(

Of course, the most famous church in Trastevere is Santa Maria in Trastevere (pic 5) located at a big square where many young people gather during the evening (they usually sit around the fountain in the middle of the square). The church is open daily 7.30-20.00 and has some beautiful mosaic from 12th century. That was probably the date that the church was built although it was this spot where probably the first Christian masses took place in Rome as the church was founded by Kalistos I during the 3rd century. We couldn’t take pictures of the interior because a mass was in progress but we really loved the atmosphere inside.

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Giuseppe Francesco Antonio Maria Gioachino Raimondo Belli (1791 – 1863) was a poet who wrote in the Romanesco dialect. mainly sonnets, of which he produced well over 2000! As a result of using the Roman dialetto, it can be argued that his work is not as accessible as it would otherwise be. Some of the humourous sonnets were translated into English by none other than Anthony Burgess.

The statue dates from 1913 so will have a centenary soon (at time of writing) viz 2013.
I always associate it with marking arrival back in Trastevere

Tras-tevere, or at the other side of Tevere (Tiberius river), has become a popular spot for a lively night-life. On a warm weekend night the place is absolutely PACKED. Full of bars, cafés, little restaurants, interesting architecture, small houses and some narrow streets... It can be a thrilling experience.

There are also some amazing shops (two stand out, the all leather bags one, you won't miss it, and the crazy shoes one, you definitely won't miss it, where the shoes made are more pieces of avant-garde art than ... feet-protection.

You could visit Trastevere during the day, but... I think that late afternoon walk that would turn into a dinner and/or drinks in some of the establishments there is a much better experience.

If you're visiting the sights around Piazza Bocca della Verita, then Trastevere is really close (ok, close is a relative term, obviously, but it is within walking distance) since you can simply cross Ponte Palatino and you reach one part of Trastevere.

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This is a hill in Rome which is reached from Trastevere. Panoramic view of Rome and outlying areas from the top, at Piazzale Garibaldi for one.

From the heart of Trastevere (say, near Ponte Sisto), find via Garibaldi and start climbing along this winding road. The road soon takes the name Passeggiata del Gianicolo (Janiculum Promenade.)
This is a nice way to spend a Sunday afternoon away from traffic, there are interesting monuments along the way and activities for families at the top (manège, pony rides, puppet theater.)

The battle for the Roman Republic was fought on the Gianicolo, opposing Garibaldi and his patriots to French forces fighting for the Pope. Monuments to the fallen line the passeggiata. A cannon fires from the Gianicolo at noon every day -- I'm missed it unfortunately since I was reading poems at Dar Poeta at the time.

The Gianicolo is featured in Respighi's Pines of Rome (mentioned in another tip.)

The most striking monument I saw there was the Acqua Paola, a huge baroque fountain at the beginning of the promenade. Pope Paul V (a Borghese) restored the ancient Roman Aqueduct "Aqua Traiana" and it's been called "Paola" in his memory ever since.
This beautiful white fountain was fed by sources of Lake Sabatinus, now known as Lake Bracciano, and that last name is inscribed in the monument.

Another nice view along the way is beside the The Institutum Romanum Finlandiae (Finnish Institute in Rome.) The building is impressive both for its architecture and its great location.
NOTE: also excellent panorama from the terrace of the Manfredi Lighthouse, above the church called Chiesa Nuova or Sta Maria in Vallicella. The lighthouse was a gift of Italians from Argentina in 1911.

The road slowly winds its way down to Lungotevere in Sassia near the Vatican.

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From Bibli, I walked to a small square where I spent some time people watching, taking a few pics, etc. Cafés, gelateria, and a nice church at the heart of it. Families and friends were meeting, everyone in a good "domenica" mood.

I was at the square by Santa Maria della Scala. The inside of that church is known for its rich baroque design but I wanted to stay outside in the sun so I focussed on the façade as seen from the Gelateria across the square. (Excellent gelato!) (I must admit I was looking for Sta Maria in Trastevere and mistook the Scala place for it awhile...)

From there to nearby Dar Poeta for a fantastic pizza and some fun reading of poems in Romanesco. The poems are framed on the walls and give the place a real feeling of Rome around 1900 (or so.) Dar Poeta is in a minuscule place along an alley and looked so quiet at first that I wondered if they were open. There were a couple of tables with people obviously regulars, and just the right rhythm of comings and goings. I'll put details under Restaurants. Just mentioning it here as part of that day's itinerary.

I walked from there to the Janiculum Hill and then for hours, taking my time.

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This summer I spent a beautiful Sunday in Trastevere and on the Gianicolo. Highly recommended for vibrant ambiance in a relaxed setting (at least for one coming from around Stazione Termini!)

Now that I'm back and looking at photos, I realise that I strolled aimlessly in Trastevere and got lost a few times -- I can't remember the name of the small square I liked so much! Think it's Santa Maria della Scala. One street off that square is via del Bologna.
(I lost the marked map of my wanderings later, in Caffé Greco, when the waiter cleared my table while I went to the washroom... he threw out the map pages I'd pulled from my guidebook!)

I started at Porta Portese (corner via Portuense and via Ippolito Nero) where there was a flea market. General direction was towards via Garibaldi to reach the Gianicolo and see the panorama of Rome from that hill. Before that, I was looking for two restaurants recommended in my guidebook, to choose one for a light lunch. The first place is Bibli, on via dei Fienaroli. Took some searching. I enjoyed the village atmosphere and took many detours.
Bibli is like a small cultural centre, welcoming, a great meeting place. There's an excellent brunch on Saturday and Sunday, and buffet every night. Lovely inside courtyard. Coffee shop, tearoom, bookshop, restaurant, bistro -- you get the picture. Quite arty. It was too early to eat so I had a fresh juice, looked at the books awhile and walked on.