bottega del conte, Genoa
... and now it is an excellent little bar.
Stockfish is some kind of salted fish. Never found out what it was like.
Paolo and Chiara took me here for a nightcap. I was just following along through all the narrow alleyways. Smelling the walls. Because a barman at the Novotel had told me you will never know Genoa until you smell the walls of the old town. And they do have a smell. A bouquet of must, ***, fish, moss, and just plain old!
I was on antibiotics so couldn't drink!!!!!!! and Chiara wasn't in the mood for the hard stuff so the barwoman made us delicious little fruity drinks with a dash of this and a slurp of that. With all the deft flair Italians seem to have when it comes to putting food or drinks together. I loved the way she broke the ice with her little hammer.
Then we took our drinks down into the ancient cellars below. I think they used to be water tanks. Anyway, they are just a bit amazing.
The next day I set off through the maze of the old town to get a photo. I was sure I would never be able to find it again. But I did. Just a clue. It is quite close to the port.
During the day a working man's bar is open close to it so you have to run the gauntlet of daytime drinkers murmering - Madonna, Madonna.
One man I recognised because I had seen him before in the Ferrari Square. He had had a heroic operation on his jaw, and had very little jaw left. Just enough so he could open his mouth and swallow a drink.
Nice wine and very good cocktails.... this place really needs a visit: when you enter it seems just a normal nice bar.... look at the stairs on the left of the counter, order something to drink and go down a 1000 years ago cellar!
Dress Code: just be dressed, we're not too formal