Colleoni Chapel, Bergamo

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In the south side of piazza Duomo there is the Colleoni chapel near the church of Santa Maria. Under the pillars that flank the front, there are some episodes of the life of Ercole. On the two windows and beside the enter there are feminine statues of the virtues. Very important is the central rose window on which is collocated the Colleoni’s statue

Let's start from curiosities ;)
just in front of Cappella Colleoni you'll find an iron gate where you'll notice a zone brighter like it has been polished recently. It hasn't been, but ppl touch it because they think it brings good luck. That's Colleoni's emblem: three testicles. It's is probably a legend but ppl think he had 3 testicles :)
Ok, now some history :p
Bartolomeo Colleoni was a great leader of mercenary troops who was born in 1400 in a village near bergamo. He fought for the Republic of Venice and for Milan, often changing his master. He had been living in his castle in the village of Malpaga and he was one of the most powerful men in Bergamo, as you can imagine looking at his chapel, whose front is totally covered with precious marble. His power allowed him to pull down the sacristy of the ancient church of Santa Maria Maggiore making space for a chapel in which beeing buried with his family, in the most glamorous corner of the town. You must bear in mind that Santa Maria Maggiore was (and perhaps it's still) the favourite and beloved church for ppl in Bergamo, see my tip about it to discover why ;)

The Chapel is joined to the northern part of the Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica and is one of the pearls of the Lombard Renaissance. It was built in 1472 by Bartolomeo Colleoni as a funeral chapel for himself. The chapel is fabulously ornated with pink and white marble. Inside there are many beautiful paintings to admire.

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The Colleoni Chapel was encased into the church of Santa Maria Maggiore during the years 1473-76. The strong medieval touch of the S. Maria Maggiore church is counterbalanced by this Renaissance jewel which harmonises beautifully trough its cromatic effect with the essential simplicity of the older church.
The refined play of colour and the multiple elements of the decorations of the chapel, underlining the themes of the life of the Condottiero Colleoni and his personal characteristics. Colleoni had performed works of charity in Bergamo, and of peace. For Venice, he had been great Condottiero, and had possessed great military strategic knowledge.
There are great many of artistic works inside the chapel to be admired, in particularly, tomb of Bartolomeo Colleoni and bas-reliefs of sculptor Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, who is also architect of the chapel, but most of all the works of Gian Battista Tiepolo; "Baptism of Jesus" and his female figures frescoes in the dome vault.

Adjoining Santa Maria Maggiore is the Capella Colleoni in early Renaissance style, with a lavishly decorated marble facade, built in XVth century to house the tomb of the condottiero Bartolomeo Colleoni. Inside are the tombs of Colleoni and his daughter Medea, both by Amadeo; there are also beautiful ceiling paintings by Tiepolo (XVIIIth century). The façade is really beautiful although the photo is not good. It opens from 9-12.30 and from 14.00-18.00, with a more restricted opening time at winter. Admission is free.
Pegada a Santa Maria Maggiore esta la Capella Coleoni, realizada en estilo renacentista temprano, con una fachada de marmol lujosamente decorada. Fue construida a finales del siglo XV para albergar la tumba del codottiero Bartolomeo Colleoni. Dentro estan las tumbas del propio Colleoni y de su hija Medea, ambas realizadas por Amadeo; tambien hay unas hermosas pinturas en el techo, que son obra de Tiepolo y datan del siglo XVIII. La fachada es muy bonita, aunque la foto no es buena. Abre de 9-12,30 y de 14.00-18.00, con un horario mas restringido. La entrada es libre

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Bartolomeo Colleoni was born in 1400 at Solza, in the countryside outside of Bergamo, into a militant aristocratic family. Aged 19, he began his illustrious career as a Condottieri - (an Italian mercenary/ Soldier of fortune). His first major engagement was in 1424, at the battle of Aquila. The majority of his service was spent fighting for Venice, though he was known to change sides (particularly for higher salaries, or promotion) eventually being bestowed the highest title Command- in-chief, as peace was finally won between The Venetian Republic and Milan.

Venice didn't want to lose Colleonis services, so he was 'kept happy' with lavish gifts, lucrative contracts and given a share of any booty. This brought him riches and properties. His favourite residence was the castle of Malpaga. It became the centre of a lavish court where artists and men of letters were frequent guests, along with his comrades-in -arms.

Colleoni had ambitions for his name to be remembered long after his death, and had made a large payment to Venice to help fund their war against Turkey, with instructions that a statue of him be placed in front of San Marco. For various reasons this wasn't possible, but the quick thinking Venetians decided that he hadn't stipulated THE San Marco Piazza, and found a spot in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, in front of the Scuola San Marco! (I've walked past this statue quite a few times now)

He also had his eye on the prestigious site of St Maria Maggiore for his final resting place. A spate of charity work in and around Bergamo still wasn't enough to pursuade the canons of the Basilica to allow this. Colleoni simply had his soldiers demolish the sacristy of Santa Maria Maggiore.

Work began on his mausoleum in 1472, the architect being the highly esteemed sculptor/architect - Giovanni Antonio Amadeo. He aimed to make this piece blend in with the other buildings, which he achieved by matching the facade to that of the Basillicas doorway, with tarsia and polychrome marble decorations in white, red and black lozenges.

Over the main portal is a stunning rose window. (pic 4) and either side, are two medallions portraying Julius Caesar and Trajan.

The four pilasters of the windows which flank this portal hold statues of the Virtues.
The upper part of the façade has a Romanesque style loggia.

The upper part of the basement has nine bas- reliefs of Biblical stories, and four depicting Hercules's deeds. Decorative garlands, columns and pillars are also features of this awe inspiring facade, making it one of the best examples of Rennaisance art in Northern Italy. Its proportions and detail are unusual for the period that's known for its more formal architecture.

Colleoni died on November 2nd 1475 at the age of 75, achieving the rare feat for a Condottieri, of dying at a respectable age, and not on the battlefield.

Inside the chapel, facing the entrance, is the tomb of Colleoni. Situated under a Trimphal Arch.
His remains are in a sarcophagus, which is embellished with 5 panels depicting the life of Christ.

Above this is a smaller sarcophagus, containing the remains of his wife Thisbe.

A gilded wooden statue of Colleoni on horseback, is the centrepiece, which was completed by the German Master craftsmen, Sisto and Syri of Nurumberg , in 1501.

During his life Colleoni had sired 8 daughters, not all bourne by Thisbe!
His youngest (and his favourite), Medea, was born when he was 54. Sadly, she died aged 16, on March 6, 1470, 5 years before her fathers demise.

Her tomb is on the left hand side wall. This was designed by Amadeo himself.
Under the tomb are carved cherubs, with mischievous faces! The tomb has 3 front panels with one containing the Colleoni coat of arms- more about this later! and the central - Deposition from the Cross.
The statue of Medea, is quite serene, as she lies in repose, with her hands folded over a decorative gown. Sitting atop a marble inscribed plinth are 3 figures- central is The Madonna and Child, flanked by Saint Catherine and Saint Chiara
The tomb was transferred here in 1892 from Urgnano.

The chapel is dedicated to 3 saints- John, Mark and Bartholomew. Statues representing this trio by Pietro Lombardo are housed in a high altar, which was sculpted by Bartolomeo Manni in 1676. The altar table was designed by Leopoldo Pollack, and features supporting angels, that were carved by Grazioso Rusca.

Look for the frescoes in the dome, depicting events in the lives of the 3 saints, by the renowned Giambattista Tiepolo, who painted them during 1732-1733.

The Sacra Famiglia (Sacred Family) by M.A. Kauffmann;
Wooden pews with carvings by G.A Sanz and biblical marquetry inlay work by Giacomo Caniana (1773)

Opening times:
March to October: Daily, 9a.m-12.30a.m; 2:00p.m – 6.30p.m.
November to February: Daily 9a.m-12.30a.m; 2:00p.m – 4.30p.m.
Closed Mondays.

Strictly no photographs! Though I managed to sneak one from outside, when both doors were open (pic 2)

There is a gift shop inside, selling a range of post-cards, guide books etc. I purchased a small guide book, but didn't check until later, that it was completely in Italian.-

Now back to that Colleoni coat of Arms!! Another place that you can see it is on the entrance gate, where a verdi gris angel is holding the heraldic shield, which has 3 polished tear or comma shaped orbs

Colleoni also used the name Coglioni - which is the Italian for testicles, and the pronunciation is similar to Colleoni- Well as a brave soldier we'd say "He had Balls"! Then again, Colleoni, had more than most men!- he had 3 testicles!
So, he was a polyorchid (Having more than 2 testicles)!

After winning his first battle, he adopted this as his coat of arms, along with the motto - "Need".

Later, they were altered to Lion heads, as he believed he was descended from Hercules!!

Ok - so these commas are testicles - and they're shiny because apparently rubbing them, brings Good Luck/ Strength / added Virility etc etc etc.(pic 5)

I took the photo (3) without realising anything about this story - I think you have to visit Bergamo to touch this shield - rubbing the screen doesn't work!!!!

Well worth a visit!

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The Cappella Colleoni makes a very strong statement about the person who had it built. Its entrance adjoins that of Santa Maria Maggiore, is much, much bigger and much, much more impressive.

The chapel was built in the 1470s, commissioned by one Bartolomeo Colleoni (a mercenary soldier from the city) and designed by Giovanni Amadeo. Its exterior columns are twiddled, twirled and covered with intertwined patterning and the whole facade is a riot of decorative features.

The interior (no photos allowed) is also highly decorated, with sculptures, paintings, coloured stonework and gilding.

To me, the whole place was just too overwhelming to be impressive. I enjoyed the Romanesque lions and carvings of SM Maggiore much more. The chapel is also quite small, so try to time your visit for when there are no tour groups.

For centuries it was thought that Colleoni was actually buried elsewhere, but in 1969 they found his coffin underneath his empty sarcophagus.

Colleoni is supposed to have had 3 testicles (much more likely he just had a hydrocele). his coat-of-arms reflected this and if you look at the gates as you enter you'll see the 'testicles' are bright and shiny. The third testicle has been rubbed 'for luck' for centuries....so make sure you rub it too!

Closed on Mondays. Other opening times:

March - October:0900-1230, 1400-1830.
November - February: 0900-1230, 1400-1630.

The colleoni chapel is a masterwork of lombardian renaissance art. It was built between 1472 and 1476 as a mausoleum for Bartolomeo Colleoni, member of an influential family. The building is located next to the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore, so that these two buildings look like a strange complex. The church is the burial church for some members of the Colleoni family and you will se a couple of their artfully decorated tombs there. Perhaps the most outstanding part is the dome, which is the eyecatcher seen from outside. Inside, there you can see a beautiful 18th century fresco in it. The façade is kept in bright colours, mainly white and pastell colours, but also back marble is used. The medaillons next to the rose window depict the roman emperors Iulius Caesar and Trajan.