I had read about this museum on Ingrid’s page and was really keen to visit, which is mainly why I was so pleased when she suggested that our day out from Gubbio might take in Fabriano. It is quite surprising to consider that an invention so widely known and used around the world came out of this fairly unprepossessing town, but so it is – in...more
Fabriano is about more than just the Museo delle carta, however fascinating that is. Make sure you allow some time to explore the rest of the town. I especially enjoyed the Piazza del Comune, Fabriano’s main square. Here we sat for a while over a coffee, admiring the lovely buildings that surround the square. These include the Palazzo Vescovile...more
The Fontana Sturinalto caught my eye as soon as we arrived in the Piazza del Comune. Its setting, just in front of the Palazzo del Podestá, is perfect, and its elegant shape is a great foil for the more angular stonework and swallow-tailed battlements of the palazzo. It is also a big attraction for the local pigeon population it seems!The fountain...more
Above the café where we had coffee, and the helpful tourist office, runs an elegant loggia, the Loggiato di San Francesco. This is unusual among Italian loggias, being on the first floor rather than at ground level. It has 19 arches some dating back to the 15th century when the loggia was built, and others more recent additions. The vaulted...more
Oh yes, the gateway beneath Palazzo del Podestá! It is worth a closer look. It must have looked marvellous after completion in 13-14th century. Now, maybe due to the earthquake and emissions, only part of its magnificent frescoes are left. I have read that they depict scenes of warriors at war and a female figure moving the wheel of fortune. I have...more
Piazza del Comune is Fabriano’s main plaza and actually a beautiful one (even in the cloudy April 2008 weather). There is Palazzo del Comune (of 1350, municipaliyt, photo 3) and opposite the former bishop’s Palazzo Vescovile with the Torre Civico (photo 5). But the dominating building in the middle is the marvellous Palazzo del Podestà (of 1255)...more
These kinds of loggias are very much prominent throughout almost all Italy but somehow I liked this best of all the ones I saw. It is elevated (first floor) and sits on what houses cafes and the tourist office today. It has 19 arches in total, some have been added later than 15th century (which is when the loggia was built) and it is connecting to...more
Opposite of the Pinacoteca Civile is Fabriano’s duomo. From the outside it looks like most of the Italian churches from 14th century, but the inside is very much surprising: pure baroque with overly decorated white walls and pillars and very colourful paintings.One remark, the reason why I don’t write more about the artwork inside: in Fabriano’s...more
.. e della filigrana (which is the full name of this museum).When it comes to pilgrimages, Christians go to the Vatican, Muslims go to Mecca, Buddhists would go to Tibet if it would still exist (and not be massacred by Dragonland) and I go to the cradles of “industrialisation” or origins of handicrafts. So I was thrilled to learn that Fabriano was...more
While I was wandering through Fabriano, I found this house next to the duomo. It reminded me immediately of Christine’s mysterious house in Mannheim, as it has similar friezes above the windows. They all depict scenes, most probably of Fabriano’s history (what else…). But as I didn’t find any explanation anywhere, I must come back to ask the...more
This is an example of the very much unexpected gems Fabriano has to offer. The nice girl at the tourist office highly recommended to visit this museum and I am glad I did. The collection was brought together in 1862 and was moved to the Ex Ospedale di S. Maria del Buon Gesú in 1912. After the fatal earthquake in 1997, it was removed to a house...more
soonWhen I was planning my trip to central Italy, I came across a book that mentioned Grotte di Frasassi as the biggest limestone cave complex in Italy and most probably of Europe. It was only discovered “recently”, 1975, and is still being investigated by speleologists. Only 13 km are explored by now, but the specialists believe that the cave...more
Localita Valdicastro 31, Fraz. Poggio San Romualdo, Fabriano, 60044, Italy
Good for: Couples
Localita Campodonico di Fabriano 102, Fabriano, 60044, Italy
Good for: Business
Via G. Di Vittorio, 13, Fabriano, 60044, Italy
Good for: Families
I only had dinner once while I was in Fabriano and this was here at Trattoria Marcellini. I can definitely recommend it, as it is excellent value and good food. The interior is quite simple and rather bright inside, but this did not matter anymore once the food arrived. They have pizza and pasta on their menu as well as typical local dishes. When I...more
Apart from the dinner at Trattoria Marcellini, I lived on snacks and tramezzini while I was in Fabriano (I wasn’t that hungry and often also too tired to sit in a restaurant during the evening). I got these mostly along the road between my hotel in Via Carvour and either paper museum or Piazza del Comune. Prices for snacks vary between 0,50 € for a...more
The nearest airport is maybe Ancona’s Falconara airport which is being served by many European airlines but otherwise mostly by flights from Roma. Distance Ancona – Fabriano is approx. 60 km.
Eurostar trains between Ancona and Roma stop in Fabriano and there are local trains to/from marche’s Ancona and Jesi, as well as to/from Umbria’s Gubbio, Foligno, Spoleto and Terni.
Local busses will cover the area around Fabriano, mostly to Sassoferrato and Genga.
Quite easy from Ancona via (highway) SS76 or from Umbria. Perugia is approx. 50 km to the west.
Well, I have already mentioned this several times – Fabriano is THE place to buy finest paper and paper art. The best selection is definitely the one in Museo della Carta. I could have bought everything… But I liked these little booklets in my main photo most: the left one has a size of 5x4 cm (and 2 cm thick) and is a model of a book with leather cover, a little string to “close” the book and a magnificent decoration on the cover: letters, made with the technique of old book lettering. But they also have bookmarks (photo 3), and little books (photo 2, 10x14 cm, each with a different kind of paper inside), albums, writing sets and much more.
While I am writing this, it seems that the paper museum is updating their website (1 week ago it had a different design and less English descriptions). See their site map for links to the product groups. It might be navigable soon via the left side menu “The products”, which is currently in Italian only.
Unfortunately, the link to the three artists’ website, who work in the museum workshop, is actually not availabe through the museum website. I hope they update it soon. It was when I came back from Italy in April 2008, but I forgot to save the link. That’s the website of the ones who made these artistic little books and the bookmarks. I will check from time to time and hopefully be able to mention their names soon.
Another shop I liked was Bartolini, just off Piazza del Comune (direction duomo and Pinacoteca, photo 4 and 5). I bought a nice album for a colleague’s wedding there.
What to pay: Prices vary. They depend on the size and art skills of the products. Watermark bookmarks are between 3 and 5 €, bigger watermarks can cost up to 10 €. The small leather only booklet was 10 €.
If you are like me and like to wander around the backstreets of towns and villages, I can highly recommend to do this extensively in Fabriano as well. I was amazed of how many beautiful partly old frescoes I saw at walls or in little shrines. Many of them have religious themes, mostly the Madonna (photos 3-5), some have reference to the art skills...more
While walking through the city, I came across many reliefs of blacksmiths at houses’ walls so I tried to find out their relevance. It seems that it was based on a kind of “mistranslation”: Fabertus was a wealthy Roman man who owned land here during Medieval times. “Faber” however, as in Homo Faber, working man of man the smith, would also stand for...more
If you are here by car, I can only highly recommend to stick to the parking rules. Even in April, very much out of season, I did see many police people walking around and taking notes of wrongly parked cars. On parking areas for example it is forbidden to park caravans.
Some villages do have free parking lots, like in San Leo. But in Fabriano for example, parking did cost inside of the city. However, there is “outside” free parking near the paper museum. Outside means on the other side of the main roads south of Fabriano (Viale Moccia and Viale Zobicco).
Otherwise, parking is not that cheap. Along the roads in the villages you will find these ticket machines almost everywhere. Fee per 1 hour is 1 €.
One more reason for taking the bike (yes, Don :-)
There is no extra special packing item you need to bring apart from what you usually take on trips.
But if you plan to visit the caves of Frasassi, you should bring a warm sweater, as it is cold inside throughout the whole year (as in every cave).
The abbey of San Vittore alle Chiuse sits in a beautiful setting a few miles north east of Fabriano, while its own beauty lies in its simplicity, set against the mountains behind. It dates back to the year 1011, and is a noteworthy example of Byzantine-influenced architecture in Italy. It is quite plain and very solid looking – easy to believe that...more
The deep wooded Frasassi Gorge winds its way through the Apennines on the western side of the Parco Naturale Regionale Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi, not far from Fabriano. It is a classic example of a karst landscape excavated by water erosion over millennia; the river has shaped this land, creating its dramatic rocky cliffs and majestic caves....more
Fabriano is the sort of town where a wander down some back streets will reap rewards in the shape of intriguing architectural details to catch the eye and the camera lens. Ingrid pointed out to me this house near the cathedral, with a frieze of decorations sculpted into the terracotta tiles. These seem to tell some story from Fabriano’s past, or...more
Some very clever but obviously completely uninformed person once wrote that the first watermark was invented in Bologna and this was copied then into almost all English websites. So most of the Wikipedia descriptions are wrong here (except the Polish, Portugese and French and of course Italian versions). Try to find a museum for watermarks in...more
I cannot praise Fabriano’s tourist office and initiatives high enough!! The receptionist at Hotel Colegio Gentile suggested that I check there for information material and the like and how glad I am that I did. Many tourist offices worldwide can learn from them (the lousy one in “my” Darmstadt included).The girl at the tourist office was very much...more