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At the borders of the Borgo Murattiano,in a little old store without any signboard,there is the best homemade ice-cream parlour in Bari," 'Colin"(short for Nicola,in barese dialect).Every day it's possible to choose among 6 or 7 different ice-cream flavours,but,according to me,the great speciality is the whipped cream,simply fantastic!
During the summer,the coffee crushed-ice drink with whipped cream is a "must"! Leave a Comment Theme: Ice CreamComparison: about averageAddress: Via Alessandro Maria Calefati 171Directions: Via A.M.Calefati,between via De Rossi and via Quintino Sella. Not far from C.so Vittorio Emanuele II and the Piccinni Theatre
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With a whole day in Bari before catching the ferry for the overnight journey to Patras I decided to treat myself to a proper Italian lunch and a particular restaurant on the Piazza Mercantile had caught my eye the evening before. Firstly, the restaurant was busy (but then so were all the others), secondly the menu was written up on a blackboard entirely in Italian, and thirdly, unlike all the surrounding restaurants, there was no “Antipasto, Pizza, Fruitta for 10 Euros” special board - sounded good to me.
Arriving for lunch about 12.30 I secured a prime position overlooking the drinking water fountain and between the waiter’s English and my own culinary Italian we managed to decipher the menu with its antipasto to start, a choice of 4 primeri and 4 secondi.
Choices made: a half carafe of excellent, fruity, local white wine arrives with a basket of bread including the local speciality whose name temporarily escapes me (salata?) which are salty, biscuity, pretzel-type things. The sun is directly overhead, giving the square a stark bleached look, but the restaurant itself is well shaded and seems to catch whatever slight breeze there is giving it an amber airiness as the sun filters through the canopies.
The water fountain is a constant hive of activity: black-robed priests, orange-overalled workmen, some colorful pretty girls, the swarthy young boy with the family’s jerry can all contribute to this vignette of local life.
My lunch starts to arrive, but instead of the expected prosciutto, salami etc antipasto I seem to have been “fast-tracked” straight on to my choice of primeri which is a mussels and clams cooked with barley(?) in a tasty olive oil, garlic and herb broth. This is good but I am vaguely disappointed that the antipasto has been missed. As the waiter clears my plate I mention the antipasto which he genuinely seems aghast at having missed and offers to have one made up now. I decline and decide to proceed to my second course, the day's fish special, which neither of us could translate either way, but turns out to be an excellent pair of John Dory fillets gratinated with thinly-sliced potato, parmesan and herbs. The fish itself is delicious but the accompanying salad of arugula, raddichio and romaine is obviously left over from the weekend and the accompanying bowl of crudities has the same lack of freshness. Which is a pity because the fish really is tasty.
For dessert I opt for cheese which is an selection of hard cheeses and a blue cheese with a couple of honeyed dips served on a wooden platter. This is good, then coffee and grappa round off my lunch.
This was a pleasant way to spend lunch here in Bari but a little more attention to detail would have made for a superb lunch. The bill for my 3-courses including the wine, water, coffee and grappa was less than 30 Euros, which for a relaxing 2 hour lunch is pretty good value. Next time I’ll try towards the end of the week when the vegetables are fresh! Leave a Comment Theme: ItalianPrice: US$21-30 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Piazza Mercantile, 31Phone: 080 521 4147Directions: On the square by the water fountain.
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it's an unpretencious but historical taproom. The food is excellent and the price is about 13-15 euros for a complete meal (hors-d'oeuvre, first course, second course, side dish, fruit, dessert, water and wine. The place is clean and the people so nice.
It's possible to have a lunch (12.30 pm - 02.00 pm) or to have a dinner (08.00 pm - 02.00 am).
"potatoes, rice and massels" is a baked local starter.
"broad beans and chicories" is another local starter.
"spaghetti with musssels" is another starter.
"fish fry" is a second course
It's possible to eat fish or meat courses. Leave a Comment Theme: ItalianPrice: US$21-30 » Currency ConverterComparison: less expensive than averageAddress: via Vallisa, 23 BariDirections: Downtown, closest Piazza Ferrarese (Ferrarese square)
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Terranima - Via Putignani 213 BARI - tel 080 5219725. Around 18 Euro, all cards.
They call themselves a 'leisure place in Puglia': they have local food from Puglia (the region of Bari), cultural meetings, music in the night in a soft pleasantly informal style, with wooden chairs and tables. Cheap price, right in the city centre, not far from the Petruzzelli theatre.
In Trani (30 km North of Bari along the coast), a city a with a wonderful cathedral and a very nice fishing port, you should visit: Osteria ai Platani - Via Elena Comneno 16, tel. 0883 482421, all cards.
Anywhere in Puglia, you will find a lot of raw shellfish. This is very typical and cannot be avoided: it's a strange kind of delicacy, with soft tones which must be experienced and peacefully tasted: mussels, 'datteri', various difefrent kinds of clams, sea-urchins, sea-lemons and even shrimps are fresly caught, washed and served with a lemon slice.
Apart from raw sea products, Puglia's cuisine offers a lot of vegetables, horse meat, and several kinds of pasta (strascinati, orecchiette.....). Leave a Comment Theme: Other
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§ I've decided to write a short guide to some of those who are,in my opinion naturally,the best restaurants and pizzerie of Bari,and that I would advice to a friend.It's difficult because in Bari there are a lot of pizzerie and restaurants (many of which good) and I've not tried them all,but however I want to write some indications about.This is only my point of view. §
This tip is about the Old Town area.It's the heart of the Bari's nightlife,so it is always full of people...and full of places where to eat,so I don't know them all.
*Expensive restaurants:
- Ristorante Terrazza Venezia (situated on the old wall,with beautiful view of
the old port...but maybe it's closed on monday morning as some other restaurants
and shops)
- Ristorante Alberosole (in Corso Vittorio Emanuele II near Piazza
Ferrarese;it's very good,but its cousine is a little bit sophisticated and
modern,not so simple and typical)
- Ristorante Al Pescatore (in front of the Castle and near the Cathedral,very fresh and good fish,but one of the most expensive restaurants in Bari!)
*Medium-price restaurants:
- Osteria al Gambero (just opposite the port,very fresh and good fish,in a rustic place)
- Locanda di Federico (situated in Piazza Mercantile,typical cousine)
- Ristorante/Pizzeria Lo Sprofondo (in Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 111,near Piazza
Prefettura)
*Cheap restaurants:
- Osteria della travi (in Largo Chiurlia 12,near the Cathedral and Corso Vittorio
Emanuele II,typical and abundant cousine)
- Antica Osteria Vini e Cucina (strada Vallisa,a small alley from Piazza
Ferrarese;it's the cheaper one and it's very rustic)
- Pizzeria Biancofarina (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II,good pizza and antipasti)
These are the internet sites (if available) of these restaurants,in order:
- http://www.bariatavola.it/
- http://www.alberosole.com/english.htm
- http://www.hostaria-gambero.com/dicono_di_noi.php
- http://www.lalocandadifederico.com/index2.html
- http://www.biancofarina.com/ Leave a Comment Theme: ItalianDirections: The Old Town
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Caffe' Borghese is a great spot for lunch or light snack as the menu is a little more extensive than many Italian bars and cafes and you'll get a couple of free snacks - we got some very good olive bread - with your drinks.
Indeed, the food is well above average for this type of place. The bruschetta stood out, with really good bread and thick, chunky toppings that were fresh rather than out of a tin as in many cafes. Panini were also good. I would certainly recommend Caffe Borghese to vegetarians as there was a choice of vegetable snakcs, something you can't take for granted in Italian bars and cafes.
The caffe' has long opening hours but was closed at Sunday lunch time when we passed through Bari again. You can sit in or out at this elegant place. Either way, the service and food are both great. Theme: ItalianPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 130, Bari
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Don't take my word for it - Terranima features in several good food guides, was recommended by local friends and also has links to the Slow Food movement.
The restaurant is guided by a couple of key concepts. The first is the food itself - local or locally-inspired ingredients and dishes. The second is the rotating menus: Terranima has 26 different menus, with a new menu appropriate to the season replacing the old every 15 days. Finally, the dining room itself, which looks like an elegant mish mash of antique knick knacks and old signs. In fact, the idea is that the dining space is a courtyard looking onto traditional shops. The barber, the coffee house, the town hall and so on.
So what about the food? My main memory of eating here was the feeling of utter happiness each time I tried something else. The food here literally made me smile, it was so enjoyable. Each time we tried something new we were surprised again at how well-made and flavoursome it was.
We chose a platter of antipasti to start off with and this turned out to be the highlight of the night. Three different local cheeses, bruschette, a type of deep-fried frittata, ham, rice salad... The buffalo mozzarella plaits in particular were amazing. Then, when we inquired whether the fritatta pieces were the 'fritteline', the owner dashed back to the kitchen to get us a plate that he'd forgotten - fried potato puffs with cheese. It was all fantastic and very nearly too filling for the main course.
There are several choices of primi and a similar number of secondi, with a much better than average number of primi suitable for vegetarians. In fact, the vegetables were all excellent, fresh and cooked imaginatively. As the ingredients are all fresh, not everything was available but frankly this made it much easier to choose. In any case, a number of dishes were created that didn't feature on the menu. We tried homemade fusilli with mussels and courgette and a plate of fried seafood. Both very, very, very good.
Dessert was more standard - the usual panacotta-type puddings and fruit, but nicer than average.
There are plenty of Puglian choices on the wine menu. The Bollina (white) was worth trying.
Prices are more than reasonable for food of this standard. Our platter was EUR 8, while primi are around the same price. Meat and fish secondi start at EUR 10.50. You wouldn't spend much less for the equivalent dishes at a pizzeria. Wine is also very fairly priced.
This is a special restaurant and I urge anyone in Bari for a meal to give it a go. The dishes are wonderful and the experience memorable. And when you see the bill you will wonder how you ate so well for so little. Theme: LocalPrice: US$21-30 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Via Putignani, 213/5, BariPhone: +39 080 5219725Directions: Bari - new townWebsite: www.terranima.com
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There are some restaurants near the train station where you can have good and quite cheap pissa with beer. And there are some cafes on Emanuelle Street where you can eat cornettes and drink capuchino, tea or anything.
Cornette and capuchino in the morning...
Pissa and beer in the evening... Leave a Comment Theme: Other
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 by Janina_B.
The restaurant is situated in the famous grotto facing the sea. Superb views. Leave a Comment Theme: OtherAddress: via Narciso, 59; tel. (0-80) 424.06.77
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Shall I start by warning you away from the worst restaurant in Italy? You will inevitably pass by a place called 'da Rafaelle' and you might think it looks cozy and be attracted by their 'specialty: Seafood' signs, but inside you will find the most venomously hostile proprietor imaginable. He slams the dishes at you, doesn't listen when you order, demands to know what you want without even telling you what there is, ignores efforts to get his attention, and actually serves pretty lousy food. In addition, the minute we walked in, he switched on the enormous TV, turned the volume all the way up, and accompanied our dinner with live reports from a campground landslide in Calabria, where bodies were being pulled from the mud and people were screaming in anguish.Real nice.......If you speak Italian, I HIGHLY recommend a place called simply 'Hosteria', which is located just off the big square that closes off the Eastern edge of the Medieval city. You go down into a sort of brick cave where you are ordered where to sit, and the slightly confused staff come and bark at you. It's not hostility, they're just wildly busy. Be warned, there are no menus and they talk fast so be ready to answer them when they say 'Da bere?' or start spieling the evenings offerings.
This is a neighborhood joint in one of the neighborhoodiest places I've ever seen. It's good basic Cucina Povera served with no pretense and no concessions to tourists.
Fave e Cicorie, Southern Italian soul food. Warm fava bean puree,cooked chicory, and a splash of olive oil and salt. Done. Theme: Other
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- Masseria San Marco
Via Paterno Bitonto, Bari - Rondo Hotel Bari
Corso A. De Gasperi, 308/e, Bari - Antica Masseria
S.S. 172 Turi/Putignano - C.da mazzaro Conversano, Bari - Hotel Europa
Via Piccinni 155, Bari - Hotel dei Trulli
Via Cadore 32, Bari - Grand Hotel d'Aragona Bari
Strada Provinciale per Cozze Conversano, Bari - Castel Del Monte Park
Strada Provinciale 234 Km 17 Andria, Bari - Scandic by Hilton Bari
Via Don Guanella 15, Bari - Hotel Villaggio Porto Giardino
Contrada Lamandia 16/a Localita Capitolo, Bari - Hotel Esperia
Via Giuseppe Verga 18, Bari - Excelsior Congressi Bari
Via Giulio Petroni 15, Bari - Sheraton Nicolaus Hotel & Conference Center Bari
Via Cardinale A. Ciasca, 27, Bari - Best Western La Baia Palace Hotel
Via Vittorio Veneto 29a, Bari - Hotel Costa
Via Crisanzio 12, Bari - Barion
Strada Statale 16 Per Brindisi Km 816 Torre a Mare, Bari
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