Bari Things to Do

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Sitting on the terrace of La Cecchina Restaurante I have the local drinking water fountain immediately before me. This provides a series of constantly-changing snippets of local life: a priest stops off with his little guided tour and they refill thier water bottles; a delivery guy pulls up in his van and does the same; a pair of builders sluice thier faces, necks and forearms, drink gulpingly and then fill thier own bottles; a small boy struggles to fill what looks like a 20 litre plastic jerry can which he then drags off. A quatrain of office people arrive, immaculately suited, open up thier panini, crack a couple of beers and have their business lunch, a slurp each from the fountain as they leave. And as it all calms down in the heat of the afternoon, the local pigeons arrive to have their share.

Hopefully the photos tell the story:

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The 12C Duomo wa dedicated to San Sabino . (I do not know him and this dedication is not widely recorded in travel books). We were not takento the church so I have only a picture of the Campanile captured over the squalid tenements between it and the waterfront as we drove away. There is at least one picture of itin the VT Tips if you can find it.

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The crypt windows are of "translucent" marble or alabaster making it rather dark. There are 7x4 ancient columns and capitals all different in material, all hastily assembled from the numerous Greek ruins round about. There is a silver altar and the Saint's remains beneath behind a grille. Upon arrival the relics were exuding a liquid (which was called "manna") which had miraculous protective properties. The phenomenon and its effects have continued to this day.(Source :crypt condensation?). Small vials of this are provided to piilgrims in some manner . I did not see any place selling them, but we were told every believer in Bari keeps a vial in their home or on their boat. Obviously how the fluid is presently obtained is a church secret.
The crypt is floored with a coarse but colorful mosaic tilework.

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The nave and aisles are divided by marble columns with well carved capitals. 3 plain transverse arches add support. The ceiling is flat and has Baroque paintings. There is a large gallery above the aisles. A simple choir screen with 2 capital topped columns separates off the chancel which contains a fine ciborium. Behind this, difficult to see, is the fine 16C monument to Bona Sforza (once Queen of Poland and Duchess of Bari). Its sarcophagus is black, the rest is carved white marble.At one side is the magnificently sculpted Bishop's Throne (11C), supported by suffering Atlantes struggling to uplift the penitent (or a very fat bishop?).At the other side a space is reserved containing Eastern Orthodox icons for such pilgrims

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The North door is called the Porta Leoni because its lateral columns are supported by carved lions. The impost blocks of the columns have carved figures representing 2 of the labors of the months. The lintel , jambs and capitals are nicely figured as well. The carving of the Arch shows deeds of chivalry. The South door is similar in program but fate has not preserved it as well. The tympani are not worked.

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The N. & S. lateral walls are decoratedwith deep tall blind arcades that support fine galleries. In the 3rd bay on each side is a fine door. The . one s more elaborate. Both doorways show Byzantine influence and will be described later. The apsidial end is a flat wall with 8 mullioned 2 -light windows surrounding a central decorated bay window that illuminates the altar inside. The columns of this window are supported by elephants! Below is a fine carved bas -relief. The transepts are stubby.

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This Romanesque building was the first great Norman church built in Apulia. It was founded in 1087 to receive the relics of St. Nicholas (Santa Claus) a revered Russian saint. They were stolen from the city of Myra (ancient Lycia of S. Turkey) by a crew of Barese sailors who overheard Venetians planning the same theft in Antioch and decided to beat them to it. The remains were wrapped in cloth because the sarcophagus was too heavy to move. (We have seen it in the museum in Antalya). The present day crypt was quickly built for the saint but the church was not completed until 1105 and the towers were never completed. The arrival day is celebrated by the famous Boat Procession each May 8 (Saints Day). St. Nic is patron of seamen, prisonners and children and is the patron St. of Russia.
The facade is Norman French with sharp roof angles and dividing vertical pilasters that allow 3 doors to indicate nave and aisles. There are 8 balanced windows and an oculus. The central door gable is surmounted by a sphinx and haslateral columns supported by 2 bulls whose brass horns are long gone (only sockets remain).The bulls ,of course, pulling the cart of relics stopped right here, so that is where they built the church.

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The castle is an early 12C Norman defensive creation. Fred II strengthened and expanded it. It was his Apulian home until in his later years when he built the Castel del Monte (well worth a visit into the hinterlands). In this home he entertained St. Francis during the 1220's when the holy man returned from the Orient. Fred attempted to have Francis privately seduced by the sexiest female in his "harem". He failed. (Naked) Francis defended himself with hot coals. Todays castle contains a museum of antiquities (from local Greek colonies) and other relevant historical materials and I think works of art. I very much regret that our short stay did not give us the chance to enter(but like other regional museums I bet they do no permit photos). These shots were taken as we went by.