Agrigento Things to Do

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This is a paradise: the inhabitants had the river bed widened into a pond - probably to store water in case of a draught or a siege. It had been converted into a garden and rescued by the FAI. It is a wonderful place and - important - cool, after the long hot walk between the temples. An additional 2 euro fee keeps the shallow people away.

"An historic, naturalist and landscape site of immense value, the Kolymbetra Garden - a small valley in the heart of the Valley of Temples near Agrigento - was entrusted to FAI under free concession by the Sicily Region for a period of 25 years. An authentic archaeological and agricultural jewel in the Valley of Temples, returned to light after decades of abandon, this is an extraordinary garden in terms of the magnificence, abundance and glory of nature, as well as the wealth of archaeological finds that are still coming to light. The favourable micro-climate which has protected the land from the cold winter winds and the heat of summer, the fertility of its alluvial soil and its abundance of water have allow an extraordinary vegetation to flourish over the centuries."

From Agrigento city centre, the valley below looks interesting with its temples, notably the Concordia which is easy to make out. Finally walking towards the Concordia, "interesting" is no longer the word you would use. The temple is huge and in such a good shape it is unbelieavable. To then be able to walk on to the Juno temple and then back to the Hercules one (which is open to stand in and has suffered more) and the ruins of the Jupiter one on the other side of the main road is just mindblowing. Especially when you then read in your guide book (there are lots to purchase at the parking lot where the bus stops) that old Agrigento was once as big as somewhere between 200-800 000 inhabitants! At least the size of Malmö where I live - absolutely mind blowing. Concordia was once used as a church when Sicily was christianised and this area really must have seen it all and if you want to see Greek temples which are more impressive than in Greece - this is the place! If you are lucky, you arrive along with a coach party from somewhere. These always have guides from the local museum so just tag along and learn a lot from these amusing and informed guys.

It became a UNESCO world heritage site a few years ago and that was probably a good idea since it seems illegal building takes place nearby and could have crept even closer. This way it should at least have some protection due to its fame.

We visited fairly late in the afternoon which gave the temples this lovely golden glow - see more in my travelogue :-)

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This is a museum with a very fine collection. In our view it is a bit too much of a good thing. The first parts of the museum seems to us to be modernized and the rooms and displays are spacious; the latter part of the museum is crowded with articles and some of the rooms are worn down. We liked:
- the church at the entrance (there was an Italian marriage going on; it adds to the attraction)
- the meeting space (ecclesiasum)
- the series of vases, noticeable in the first part of the museum
- the selection of coins (downstairs)
- the room with the giant
- the tomb for a child, with the weeping parents

Entrance fee: 6 euro, free for 65+

It was said that the museum was wheel chair accessible: for large parts it is NOT. For instance, the stair lifts were too small for our travelling wheel chair; we couldn't reach the room with the giant, nor the numismatic collection and the toilets (!). Also, you have to back track the whole approach to the museum, as a wheel chair cannot use the (panoramic) exit.

In the garden is a small bar which serves good cafe and cold drinks.

Reaching the parking area is tricky: there is a small, uneven, dirt road next to the museum grounds. At the end, make a turn and slalom between the bushes. There are some trees, however, so if you're lucky, you can park in a shaded area. Leave the parking area using a wider road with large stones and you reach a round-about. I think you can also enter the parking space from here, but there were no signs.

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As for Temple of Heracles a colonnade of 8 columns is all what was left from the sanctuary. It is the earliest of the group in archaic Doric style built in about 500 BC.
Its 'cella' was in 2:5 proportion (12 m by 30 m); inner width or 'naos' was more than 11 m. The temple used to have typical stairs but not much is left there.

These columns were re-erected during first half of 20ieth century. Structure still feels impressive and strong - and somewhat dramatic when black and heavy night serves as the background - when I stoped there before return to the ticket was already quite late.

This it the first in the series of temples at Eastern site of the 'Valley'.

On the second photo: columns of Heracles are in the end of view over telamones. Quite far, but they rule the area. You need to enlarge photo to see it better.

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It is said that temple was erected by hero Lacinius in about 450 BC. Located at the top of the tall cliff dominates the area, it is at the eastern end of the series of Agrigentan sanctuaries; measures are 16,91 m by 38,10 m with 13 side columns. In front of the base you can still see traces of large sacrificial altar which is east of temple but not in the best condition. Temple was set on fire by Carthaginians in 406 BC. After that it was up to fate how much of its building will be left to see for the next generations.
This temple was traditionally dedicated to protector of matrimony and childbirth. Columns were partially re-erected in early 1900.
From what is left one can still imagine its greatness – get as closer as it is allowed to view grand columns – or what was left of them. It has kept shape of outer facade so it is possible to experience it in full scale yet some without entablature of roof.

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It was intended to be the largest Doric temple ever constructed; however it was never completed. Earthquaqes and fights turned temple into what you can see nowsadays as impressive ruins with huge stones – and one can imagine what power of men was needed here to build such construction. Olympieion was erected in 480 BC by thousands of Carthaginian prisoners and measured 113,50 m in length by 56,30 m wide – as a gesture of thanks to Zeus for victory of Agrigetians over the Carthaginians in battle of Himera; it is believed that by constructing the biggest building people of Agrigentum wanted to prove that they can do better than their neighbors and are on par with Ionians.

Some interesting 'details': the entablature was supported by half columns which were 20 m high and 4,5 m in diameter set against impressive blind wall. Telamones (atlantes – giant males) used to stand between those Doric half-columns to hold up the entablature of roof. These sculptures measured 8 m in height and while you can see one of such atlantes lying on the ground (in the middle of temple) nowsadays you have to keep in mind that is the reproduction of giant to give you idea of scale; real one can be seen in archeological museum safe from weather conditions. Many of details and idea of how was temple really like is unknown to historians.

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'Concord' was built in about 430 BC and it was contemporary with Parthenon in Athens. It is one of the best preserved buildings of Greek architecture, a fine example of Classical style with perfect balance and harmony. It has 6 by 13 columns and measures 16,92 m by 39,42 m.
The temple was turned into church in 597 AD and has undergone few alternations – luckily it helped it not to become construction material unlike other temples. It is not known to which god it was dedicated – it was named Concord because they found Latin inscription in its vicinity.

We were lucky to catch changing light on the columns and entablature right before tempest on that evening. Timing couldn't be better and there's something in the air when you stand there alone in front of ancient architecture at that unusual time of a day. You are not allowed to enter the sacred place but being that close gives you the idea of how important it was for our ancestors to be in peace with gods and godesses.

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Agrigentum (Acragas) is placed in a position easy to defend – and south of what is nowsadays modern city of Agrigento - that is along the ridge rather than in 'valley' and is boundned east and west by two watercourses (named Hypsas and Acragas). Temples from 5th century BC are Doric, all except Temple of Zeus were hexastyle format (6 columns at the front; Zeus had 7 columns), built of limestone tufa which is more vulnerable to weather conditions and changes than marble.
West to east distribution of sanctuaries is:
Temple of Hephaestus
Temple of Castor and Pollux
Temple of Zeus or Olympieion
Temple of Heracles
'Concord'
Temple of Hera Lacinia

According to Classic criterion all the buildings face east.

Fee includes entry to entire historic area which is split in two by the main road. Site (east) with Temple of Heracles, Concord and Hera Lacinia is larger and temples are better preserved so probably you will spend more time exploring if you're on your own; but the oldest are Castor and Pollux (symbol of Agrigento) and what is left from Olympieion- trully remarkable ruins.
When we visited east site it was right before it got dark – and it was windy, cold and rainy evening with those beautiful dark and heavy clouds which set more than perfect background for watching ancient architecture. It is at those moments when you're there almost entirely alone in front of a Temple when you feel ancient energy of the sacred place. You're enchanted – and perhaps those minutes you feel like being old Greek yourself.
On next morning we did the west site.

Fee: 8 EUR
Opening time: 9 am – 7 pm