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by ICBT The only surviving remnant of medieval times in Catania. The reason for this is twofold: earthquakes and lava. The great quake of 1693 basically razed the city and this was one of the few structures to survive. In the same general time period a huge lava flow destroyed half of the city, and in fact destroyed everything around the castle. It miracalously survived: the lava parted when it encountered the castle's huge moat and swept around either side. To appreciate how amazing this actually is, pause to consider that the castle was once on the COAST. Obviously no longer the case, as the lava extended the coast outward by some margin. [For extra credit there's a huge painting of this event in the cathedral.] Not to be missed is the eagle perched atop the doorway, put there by (I think) one Roger who wanted to remind the populace that he was always watching them. The castle itself houses the Museo Civico, which generally holds small art exhibits and houses a few bits of medieval brick-a-brac. Leave a Comment Directions: West of Piazza Duomo. Unfortunately it's a little hard to find as you have to wind through a patch of mazelike streets through not the greatest neighborhood. Check a tourist map for the most direct route.
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 Via Crociferi during the day by ICBT Via Crociferi is a tiny street parallel to Via Etnea to the west. While Piazza Duomo is the center of the city's civic power, Via Crociferi is the center of its religious power. Church is stacked upon church, all in the grand baroque style. I believe there are 9 churches within 200 yards of each other, something like that. Although Via Crociferi is parallel, it is much higher up than Via Etnea due to the ancient lava flow it's built upon. It's accessed from the extremely steep Via San Giuliano or by stairs. Unfortunately it is rare to find one of the churches open to the public. I don't know why. Connecting the Via to the streets below is a wide staircase that is lined with pubs. This is "Nevsky", so-called after the pub of the same name which attracts the most socialist oriented crowd in town. This is one of THE night spots in Catania, by the way, and Via Crociferi at night, isolated above the crowd, is where most of the zone's drug deals go down. This mixture of the sacred and the profane has always fascinated me. Leave a Comment
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by ICBT This is a piazza a bit to the west of Piazza Duomo that is surrounded by interesting things. The statue in the center is of the Cardinal Dusmet, whose body is on display in the Duomo. Nearby: on the west side of the Piazza is Bellini's House and Museum, on the right the Immacolata Church that houses the candelora of St. Agata, to the north through an arch is Via Crociferi and its many baroque churches. Leave a Comment
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by ICBT This is one of the best modern exhibits Italy has to offer, believe it or not. It is TRULY a must-see. One of the largest WWII museums in Europe, and shockingly well-done. Housed in 'Le Ciminiere' (literally, the Smokestacks), an abandoned factory on the coast, this completely modern exhibit covers the 33 day American/British invasion from its dramatic beginnings on the southern coast near Noto, through the taking of Palermo and Catania and finally to the Axis escape across the straights. Multimedia, photography, artifacts and audio bring the story to life. Also, as an American, the opportunity to see the story from the other side was a welcome and impressive experience. I'm sorry I don't remember how good the English was on the many, many placards and whatnot - I was reading the Italian so I didn't pay attention. The guides are also very friendly and helpful and many speak some English. Can you believe the American forces wore WOOL? In July in Sicily? Poor planning, guys. Leave a Comment Directions: It along the coast, visible from the piazza in front of the train station. Look for smokestacks and bricks combined with glass and steel.
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 The Entrance to the Park by ICBT Catania is a heavy, darkly-colored stone city under a brilliant blue sky. Rarely however is the grey, black, blue and brown relieved by the green of vegetation. This is what makes Villa Bellini such a wonderful change. This is really a large park, named after the famous Catanese composer. There are small amusements for children, fields for gaming, and the occassional snack vendor to complement the otherwise peaceful and serene daytime atmosphere. And of course, always a perfect spot to publicly display your affection for your significant other, which the Catanese students do with verve paralleled only by the Romans. There is lots and lots of statuary in the park - most of it has been singularly vandalized: the noses have been broken off. I never found out if this has some particular meaning or whether it was just random meanness, but the statues themselves are still nice to wander through. The park is fairly clean and feels safe, as it is completely urban and not unmanageably large. It is, however, closed at night. Leave a Comment Directions: On the west side of Via Etnea right where it splits off into Via Caronda. About half way up - across the street from the main post office.
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by ICBT The arch at the southern end of the Via was built so that the nuns living in a cloister could travel to church without having to go outside. In earthquake-prone Catania such a walkway was considered inordinately dangerous (its collapse would block the escape route of a number of streets), but it was built all the same, and the nuns still use it. In fact, they only step outside once a year, in order to offer a song to St. Agata during her festival (see my travelogue, 14th Installment, for much more detailed information). Leave a Comment
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by ICBT Bellini's childhood home has been turned into a museum in his honor. Manuscripts, letters, historical documents, pianos and photographs are tastefully displayed in the tiny space. True Bellini lovers of course CANNOT miss this stop, and even those with only a passing interest should stop in to learn a bit about Catania's most beloved musician from the guides who themselves are quite knowledgable and passionate about their work. The sign says: "This house, where Vincenzo Bellini was born, was declared a national monument on November 29th, 1923." Don't forget to ask about the church across the street. You will hear the story of how Vincenzo would walk, unaccompanied, across the piazza every morning to practice the church's organ - when he was 3 years old. The church itself houses several candelora for the St. Agata festival, and is itself worth a visit. All things Bellini: Teatro Massimo Bellini, Bellini's house and Museum, Statue of Bellini, Piazza Teatro Massimo Bellini, Villa Bellini Leave a Comment Directions: At the southern end of Via Crociferi is Piazza Dusmet with a large bronze statue of the Cardinal. On the west side is a VERY unassuming entryway and in the corner of this entryway is the sign shown in the photo. There you are.
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Catania is the city where I learned to love the Baroque. To paraphrase a hammy line from Disney, I used to say: if it's Baroque, FIX IT! Not anymore. All those embellishments and flutings enriching those chill classical lines... oh yes. Piazza Duomo is the heart of the city's 'Centro'. To the South, through the Porta Uzeda, is the port of Catania, to the north Via Etnea slopes up towards the volcano and the more urban part of town. All around you are Vaccarini's heavy black and grey lava-stone buildings, all rebuilt after the earthquake of 1693 destroyed the city. Things of interest here and nearby: The Duomo. The Elephant Statue, The 'Lenzuolo' Fountain, The Fish Market, Via Etnea, Porta Uzeda, Museo Diocesiano Catanese. Leave a Comment
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by ICBT The Duomo of Catania is dedicated to St. Agatha (Agata), and houses her relics. Her festival is by far the most important civic event in the city, as well as one of the biggest and most elaborate Catholic saint's festivals in the entire world. It is often refered to as a 'Fortress Cathedral', as it played an integral part as watchtower and its southern wall is in fact a part of the city's ancient defensive wall. It too was rebuilt by Vaccarini after the earthquake of 1693, as the integral centerpiece of the piazza, although remains of the Norman cathedral that preceded it are still visible on the interior (the pointed Norman arches of the transept). Interesting things inside: the relics of St. Agatha, the Body of Cardinal Dusmet, the Tomb of Vincenzo Bellini. Interesting things nearby: see Piazza Duomo. Leave a Comment
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by ICBT As mentioned elsewhere, Bellini is Catania's most famous musical figure. I love this piece. From the top down: Bellini, seated on a throne. Below him, facing in each of the cardinal directions, are four figures, each representing one of his famous operas. We have Norma, a Puritan, la Sonnambula (the sleepwalker), and the Pirate. They are each standing on a case of seven steps (the seven steps of the musical scale), which have important themes from the operas carved into them. All things Bellini: Leave a Comment
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